dugums build - need a ton of help!!!

[dugums]

So far, I have been overwhelmed by the knowledge and encouragement I have gotten on this site. I thank all of you that post helpful responses and also those who keep this site running.

Unfortunately, you have convinced me that I would be missing too great a learning opportunity to pay a shop to do the work on my car. So, now you're going to have to deal with all of my irritating questions! (Oh, and there will be A LOT of questions).

That said, I have about two weeks off to get as much of the following done. I used to do pro-audio work, but this is the first time I have ever gotten this involved with a car.

Here are my plans:

1. Replace headgasket. I do not believe it has blown yet, but after consulting this forum, it seems that if the status is unknown, I can save some money by taking care of this now.

2. Replace radiator. Nothing was really wrong with mine, but I would like to address cooling shortcomings in the car as much as possible. Plus, the Koyo Radiator is purty! Cooleeze upper radiator pipe was ordered quite a while ago, but I never got it, and now I can't get a hold of them.

3. New shocks/lowering springs. Illumina's are on the way. I still need to order springs. I'm thinking eibach for springs, but definitely open to suggestion.

4. Battery relocation to the trunk.

5. Differential rebuild. I will see how the head gasket replacement goes, and then decide if I want to tackle it.

6. Brake rotors/pads all around.

--I would be happy if I could get the above list done in my time off --

I would also like to complete a number of upgrades this summer, which I need to do more research on.

Right now I'm thinking about a 57 trim CT26, downpipe, injectors, maft-pro, etc. I'm really wanting to put the best quality stuff into the car, but I am not looking to go HUGE on the power.

This car is my daily driver, which is why I have to get the preliminary work done in relatively short order.

Questions to follow - I thank all of you in advance for your input!

 

[dugums]

I wanted to keep the intro separate from my questions (b/c it's a bit long-winded), so here's what I got done today:

Drained and removed radiator. Removed alternator, 3000 pipe, intake, battery, t-belt cover, and other odds and ends.

Even though not part of the HG job, I went ahead and removed the radiator since I already have the Koyo here.

I have been following the TSRM, but had a couple of questions not answered by it.

QUESTIONS:

1. The TSRM says to unbolt the PS reservoir and remove it. Should I be taking the PS reservoir completely out of the car??? If so, do I cork the inlet tubes with something?

2. I cannot see the engine coolant drain. I know I should have waited to disconnect the radiator until I had drained the engine and flushed, but I got frustrated that I got stuck. Any tips on finding the draincock?

 

[dugums]

Alright, so I have made some decisions as to some of the performance upgrades:

CT26 57 Trim
FMIC
Cooleeze upper/lower hardpipes
Cooleeze Megamouth Downpipe w/ integrated elbow (bought)

The exhaust system on the vehicle right now looks like it was done by a custom shop. 3.75" all the way back, with sort of a nasty muffler. It is very loud and can only imagine it is going to get louder with the DP and other mods.

I would really like to get something more subdued at idle (although noise at WOT doesn't bother me at all). Was looking at the tanabe super hyper medallion cat-back, but some sites say the inner-diameter goes down to 2.75". Can anybody confirm this?

I still need to do a lot of research on what to do for fuel and electronics to use - so, any suggestions would be great!

 

[AF1JZ]

I cannot see the engine coolant drain. I know I should have waited to disconnect the radiator until I had drained the engine and flushed, but I got frustrated that I got stuck. Any tips on finding the draincock?

The engine doesn't have a coolant drain. It is all drained out of the radiator via the draincock on the bottom drivers side of the radiator facing to the rear if it is in the car.

The exhaust system on the vehicle right now looks like it was done by a custom shop. 3.75" all the way back, with sort of a nasty muffler. It is very loud and can only imagine it is going to get louder with the DP and other mods.

3.75 is pretty big. I'd stick with 3'' all the way.

 

[dugums]

3.75 is pretty big. I'd stick with 3'' all the way.

Yeah, I don't know what the point of that was (seeing as it had the stock DP and elbow).

Want to go with a 3". As I said, I think I read the Tanabe system I mentioned went down to 2.75" somewhere, so I am seeking more information on that.

 

[dugums]

Alright, had a quick question today -

I bought a Toyota Head Gasket set, but the previous owner also gave me a new Felpro HG.

Is there any appreciable difference between the two? Just want to know which one I should use!

Thanks!

 

[starscream5000]

Toyota, might as well go with the same company who made the engine it goes on .

 

[dugums]

Toyota, might as well go with the same company who made the engine it goes on .

That's what I was figuring, I figured I should ask since I don't know anything about the felpro.

Guess I'll have a felpro for sale soon...

 

[Sawbladz]

I don't see if this was answered yet for you but...for the power steering you can get away with not draining it. Just unbolt it from the engine and leave the lines attached. Move it out of harm way in the engine bay and it should be fine.

EDIT: I see that you are going with a composite head gasket. May I ask why? If you are going to all the trouble to change the head gasket as preventative maintenance...why not put in a MHG? Do you plan to pull the motor completely to do this job? Or do you plan measure the block while it's in the car to make sure it's not warped, have the head milled and then do a composite gasket (because they are more forgiving to this type of thing)?

 

[csnow]

The compsite HG will work fine with a .57 trim CT. That is only around 375 rwhp. Resurfaced head, ARP studs, and a composite will work fine. The composite is much more forgiving than a metal for surface mating. It is not the HG that is flawed on the motor, it was the torque spec from the factory.

Chris

 

[7Mboost]

That's what I was figuring, I figured I should ask since I don't know anything about the felpro.

Guess I'll have a felpro for sale soon...

The Supra blows head gaskets BECAUSE of Toyota, undertourqued head bolts, shitty gasket, and weak studs. I suggest a quality METAL head gasket from Cometic, HKS, Greddy etc.... also ARP Head Studs and tourque the studs to the correct specs.

 

[dugums]

I chose to go with a composite headgasket for a number of reasons:

1. Both of my previous Supras had properly torqued factory HG and were built to moderate power. One of them is still a local car and has been running 330 rwhp since 1998 without need for a rebuild.

2. I don't have room/time to pull the motor and re-do everything.

3. The machining quotes I received are astronomical for the block.

4. If I can learn enough about the engine and am comfortable enough working on it, I am going to attempt a full build next year. I am in the midst of a career change right now, so this one has got to serve as the DD (for a whole 4 miles per day). I have also recently sold my house, so I don't have a ton of space to work with right now.

5. I have no plans on tracking this car.

These reasons, in addition to the advice I have gotten in this forum has lead me to the decision to go with the composite HG AND to do it now, rather than waiting for it to blow.

Let me know if I have been misguided.

I also plan on removing the HKS FCD, because I believe it is not a good thing to have and explore other electronic solutions to make sure everything is running as it should.

If you have any suggestions in this regard, please let me know - I haven't really come to a conclusion on this front.

 

[Sawbladz]

The compsite HG will work fine with a .57 trim CT. That is only around 375 rwhp. Resurfaced head, ARP studs, and a composite will work fine. The composite is much more forgiving than a metal for surface mating. It is not the HG that is flawed on the motor, it was the torque spec from the factory.

Chris

I agree that the factory torque spec was too low...but...I would not run that much rwhp with a composite when a metal is only a few hundred more and a bit more work. If he uses a competent machine shop, there shouldn't be any reason for a MHG to fail.

Regardless of headgasket material...use the ARP's and a proper torque spec (in the right order).

EDIT: For your specific application the composite sounds fine and makes sense. I would pull the FCD for sure...fuel cut is there for a reason. If you have the boost set at a good number you shouldn't be hitting it anyways.

 

[7Mboost]

I chose to go with a composite headgasket for a number of reasons:

1. Both of my previous Supras had properly torqued factory HG and were built to moderate power. One of them is still a local car and has been running 330 rwhp since 1998 without need for a rebuild.

2. I don't have room/time to pull the motor and re-do everything.

3. The machining quotes I received are astronomical for the block.

4. If I can learn enough about the engine and am comfortable enough working on it, I am going to attempt a full build next year. I am in the midst of a career change right now, so this one has got to serve as the DD (for a whole 4 miles per day). I have also recently sold my house, so I don't have a ton of space to work with right now.

5. I have no plans on tracking this car.

These reasons, in addition to the advice I have gotten in this forum has lead me to the decision to go with the composite HG AND to do it now, rather than waiting for it to blow.

Let me know if I have been misguided.

I also plan on removing the HKS FCD, because I believe it is not a good thing to have and explore other electronic solutions to make sure everything is running as it should.

If you have any suggestions in this regard, please let me know - I haven't really come to a conclusion on this front.

If this was your answer torward me: If you get a thicker hg you will not need to do anything to the head. You don't have to pull the motor for the head or any of your plans that I see.

 

[dugums]

Well, knock on wood - it would really suck to do all this work just to mess it up...

Anyway, the previous owner didn't know much about much. The boost controller appears to have two settings - one at 6psi, and one at 12 psi.

As soon as I can finish up the HG job, I will be removing the FCD altogether. I don't really have any idea as to how to remove it. So if there are any suggestions - let me know.

I am sort of confused on my plans so far, so I really appreciate the help. From what I've gathered, my power goals are going to require more fuel and proper tuning. I don't have a clue about injectors or electronics yet. I would really love to get this dialed in ASAP so I can enjoy the car this summer.

Keep the suggestions coming!

 

[dugums]

If this was your answer torward me: If you get a thicker hg you will not need to do anything to the head. You don't have to pull the motor for the head or any of your plans that I see.

Didn't you suggest a MHG? Won't the motor need to be pulled for that?

 

[7Mboost]

^ Metal Head Gasket? If your doing doing the head gasket anyway why not throw on a good quality one? Its a direct replacement.... no need to take the motor out.

 

[Sawbladz]

You should pull the motor to do a MHG. You need to make sure that the block has no warps and that you have the correct RA for the headgasket to seal properly.

Also...I didn't see anywhere in your posts...what are your power goals. The 57 trim you said you will use can make around 400 whp max but what would you be happy with?

 

[dugums]

You should pull the motor to do a MHG. You need to make sure that the block has no warps and that you have the correct RA for the headgasket to seal properly.

Alright then, this is what I thought I had settled before, lol.

My understanding is as follows:

1. To do a MHG PROPERLY both head and block need to be machined. In order to machine the block the motor must be removed.

2. To do a composite (factory) HG properly the head should be machined, but if the block checks out to be flat, you can get away without having the block machined.

RIGHT???

Haha, I am beginning to think I should just run it and wait for it to blow...

 

[7Mboost]

Alright then, this is what I thought I had settled before, lol.

My understanding is as follows:

1. To do a MHG PROPERLY both head and block need to be machined. In order to machine the block the motor must be removed.

2. To do a composite (factory) HG properly the head should be machined, but if the block checks out to be flat, you can get away without having the block machined.

RIGHT???

Haha, I am beginning to think I should just run it and wait for it to blow...

You don't HAVE to machine the block unless its serverly warped. You can put on a thicker hg like a 2.0mm.