my welded autozone setup is holding up with a ceramic 6 puck and solid mounts.. good to go. cannot complain.
Driveshaft Carrier Bearing
- Thread starter Island_Yota
- Start date
I installed an AL DS a few years back everything was fine then during the winter months I swapped out my rear subframe, filled the mounts with window glue when I put it back on the road I had a nasty vibration It was a twisted AL drivshaft I only had 450-500ish HP Ive been running a rebuild stocker for 2 years now the pic is from my "other" supra Id rather have the stocker at 130+ MPH I did not notice a huge difference to justify the cost or the safety aspect of a one peice, I originally changed it out because the bearing was shot and it was making a thud under acceleration. Dont waste you $ on a one peice speaking from experience.
If you never launch your car you may be alright I did very minimal drag racing.
If you never launch your car you may be alright I did very minimal drag racing.
I've had a 1 piece aluminium ds on my NA for several years now. Although you feel the improvement because of the lighter rotating mass, the ride is not as comfortable as a 2 piece. You tend to feel some more vibrations, however, it really isn't that bad. Other than that, I have never had an issue.
I will also be using a Jawsgear 1 piece steel driveshaft on my '91 T.
-Mo
I will also be using a Jawsgear 1 piece steel driveshaft on my '91 T.
-Mo
Stoked, ordered in the Napa replacement bearing today, $41!
Il definitely look into a 1 piece when I can afford it, but I think I will have to do the pinion bearing and trans output first. The extra HP would be nice, id have to get some lighter wheels to go with it too.
Il definitely look into a 1 piece when I can afford it, but I think I will have to do the pinion bearing and trans output first. The extra HP would be nice, id have to get some lighter wheels to go with it too.
Ok so I got the Napa bearing in the car this weekend.
This is a bit confusing but here is what I did,
1. Pryed the Toyota rubber out of the housing
2. Cut the housing in half so it was a U shape, tossed the top half out. This retains the toyota base plate that bolts to the car and the bottom half of the round metal housing
3. The round side of the napa housing(metal) is a smaller diameter than the toyota one, it almost fits in the half of the Toyota housing, the "ribs" on the napa one hit the center of the toyota one.
4. To get the height proper I had to cut down the center (between the "bumps" where the rubber/retaining clips sit) out of the Toyota housing without cutting through the second layer of metal to retain strength.
5. Height is only off by 1mm after that, which is great.
6. Welded the corners of the napa housing where it curves into the tall bracket part, cut bracket off, and welded where it was cut off.
7. Cut up some 1/8" flat bar and made some "supports" and welded them to the sides of the toyota housing and napa housing.
8. Spot welded along the bottom edge where the napa housing sits in the toyota housing.
If you can visualize that great, I dont have pictures.. but I can the next time im under my car.
It made a big difference, still have some play in the rear control arms but the driveshaft feels much better, no more delay when decelerating, no more clunking on shifts.. made the car much more drive able got rid of some vibration I had aswell. $41 well spent, id rather do that again then drop $300+ for a Toyota one.
This is a bit confusing but here is what I did,
1. Pryed the Toyota rubber out of the housing
2. Cut the housing in half so it was a U shape, tossed the top half out. This retains the toyota base plate that bolts to the car and the bottom half of the round metal housing
3. The round side of the napa housing(metal) is a smaller diameter than the toyota one, it almost fits in the half of the Toyota housing, the "ribs" on the napa one hit the center of the toyota one.
4. To get the height proper I had to cut down the center (between the "bumps" where the rubber/retaining clips sit) out of the Toyota housing without cutting through the second layer of metal to retain strength.
5. Height is only off by 1mm after that, which is great.
6. Welded the corners of the napa housing where it curves into the tall bracket part, cut bracket off, and welded where it was cut off.
7. Cut up some 1/8" flat bar and made some "supports" and welded them to the sides of the toyota housing and napa housing.
8. Spot welded along the bottom edge where the napa housing sits in the toyota housing.
If you can visualize that great, I dont have pictures.. but I can the next time im under my car.
It made a big difference, still have some play in the rear control arms but the driveshaft feels much better, no more delay when decelerating, no more clunking on shifts.. made the car much more drive able got rid of some vibration I had aswell. $41 well spent, id rather do that again then drop $300+ for a Toyota one.
Most of the delay in response when laying off the accelerator haves to do with the weight of the rotating pieces not the carrier bearing, but the carrier causes clunking when shifting if its bad.