drilled vs slotted rotors.. or neither

Suprawannabe

meh... im lazy
Oct 27, 2005
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Denver, CO
How about both

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:icon_razz


Crossdrilled is pointless and more about looks, taking away surface area and extra metal for heat dissipation/absorption will let the rotor cool down quicker but also so heat up quicker. I used to have an article were porsche admitted crossdrilled was just for looks. BUT... having a two piece rotor (aluminum hat) allows the rotor to expand under high heat conditions and preserves the life of the rotor.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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www.ebay.com
boost PSSH boost said:
I run powerslots and porterfields on the supra.

I installed them late 2004. 20K no problems, lots of life left.

Ran the same setup on my 88T, and that car saw dozens of autocross days during its 15K stint.

You are lucky. Get rid of them while you can.
 

boost PSSH boost

SM's Welding Guru
Apr 4, 2005
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Marshall, WI
They're about due to be replaced, I'll probably end up going with brembo blanks since powerslots are expensive and din't give me any extra stopping power. They were free in the first place...
 

Insidious Surmiser

Formerly 89jdm7m
May 12, 2006
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Oceanfront
Suprawannabe said:
I used to have an article were porsche admitted crossdrilled was just for looks. BUT... having a two piece rotor (aluminum hat) allows the rotor to expand under high heat conditions and preserves the life of the rotor.

more good info :bigthumb: keep it comin' guys:icon_bigg

what kind of rotor is that BTW?
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
I vote grooved AND cross-drilled, but only if you're spending money on a good brand. Brembo/AP/Black Diamond are the top brands in the UK, followed by the cheaper but still okay Tar-Ox and EBC ones.

Grooved and drilled dissipates any dust and gas buildup, preventing hotspots on the disc.
 

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
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Victoria BC
i have yet to really read this thread but this is what i know about brakes

drilled rotor's street/week end worrie

to vent gas witch makes snapy brake and is great in the rain and it has better cooling but there is small chance of cracking but only on cheep drilling or very heavy use of brakes

now what pad whoudl i put on drilled rotor is a oem standered /autox/street. Me my self whould never put race pad on drilled rotor way to much heat i thinks plus it whould take to long for the rotor to heat uo


slotted rotor's track

i still wounder why people put these on there cars for street on stock rotor size
any way

the sloted rotor is mosty for bring up pad temp and rotor temp why it does this is the slots bite into the pad cause more heat and short pad life this si great only really on race pad on reg pad it will just brun the pad out may past it's temp zone

slotted rotor do not vent heat power slot claims to but meh i really dont belave it cause of the heat you gain form the slots

drill sloted = point less not even going to get into that pick one of the top not both

plain street week end

good oem rotors or brembo that is all i got to say
more heat tranfer cause of no matle being drilled away or slot to increas heat

pad you can use any one you want to you apcation really


man i am done to much temping and stuff and trying to make it all make seance
i wish i choudl say more but my fingers spelling don't work to getter


ph yae for what i do i whould choose drilled rotor
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
Slotted is the only way besides just a smooth stock surface. (No slots, no drilled holes.)

Just cross drilled rotors IMHO are not the way to go. Your losing swept are and not getting much in the way of cooling from the holes.

Much better is slotted to de-gas, and wipe the pad face clean all the time, so you don't get build up of things you don't want there. (Like sand for example, it turns into glass when you use your brakes hard....)

Cooling wise, spiral fins do pump air, but how much I don't know. (Must be worth it because just about every racing rotor made of metal has them incorporated in some way. Only the CF ones just use holes down the middle, or they are just solid rotors of CF material being clamped by pads made of CF material.)

Ok, then we come to mass. You need some mass when using metal based brake systems. (The ones we can afford.. so let's skip the CF arguments here.) Your brakes do nothing more than convert inertia into heat via friction, and dissapate that heat into air flowing over the mass. The more surface area you have for the air to contact, the faster you can transfer the heat. (The crossdrilled arguement.) Problem is air does not like go sideways through holes that have air being blown over both ends, so the air tends to be stagnant unless you create some form of pressure change on either side of the rotor. (With ducts, or spiral fins or whatever, just change the pressure, and bang! The air flows from high to low always.) Still a minimal thermal transfer of heat compared to the surface area of the rotor face, and venting system on even stock vented rotors.

Ok, back to mass, and one more thing you have to consider. Swept area. This is the actual area the pad has contact with. There are a few ways to enlarge it. Either use taller pads that sweep a tall area, or enlarge the diameter of the rotor, and use tall pads.. Here's something funny. The bigger pads do not actually create more stopping force than smaller pads under the same pressure. But the larger pads do last longer under the same conditions, on the same cars. I'm not sure I belive it, but it's what I've been told, and read more than a few times in a few places related to brake systems.

Leverage is also another factor on brakes. By moving your stock calipers out to a new distance from the hub center line, you increase the tourqe of that system. This is another reason larger brake rotors work better. Not only have they increased the mass and swept area, they also improved the tourqe effect of your brakes. (Same pressure results in more brake effect.) Just like you can put more tourqe on the same nut with a cheater bar v/s just straining on the wrench by itself.

There are tons of theories about pad size, piston arrangement to improve pad wear and all kinds of stuff we don't have time to cover, and I'm bored to write about.

The fact is the stock brakes are OK for the stock car. If your making 400hp, you really need to upgrade your brakes. Al in AZ makes a very nice kit for a great price for the front brake upgrade. And it should fit most 17" wheels, a major bonus for most people.

If you want even larger brakes, pull out your wallet and pony up the money, but then enjoy awesome brakes that will slow down your Supracar with confidence at any speed. Figure about 4k to get here. Do you really need this? Only if you need to slow down from really high speeds more than a few times in a 10 min period. (I'm crazy enough to have found this out first hand, and yes, even these brakes fade, but I have yet to find out where they stop working.. and that's about 5 stops from 140mph in 5 miles... then the stock brakes are toast, and these are just getting warm.. :) )
Fronts. Wilwood GNIII six piston calipers, 14x1.38" slotted rotors.
p377038_1.jpg

Rears. Wilwood Forged Billet Dynalite four piston calipers, 14x1.25" slotted rotors with custom steel hats with stock parking brakes inside them :)
p377038_2.jpg

As far as I know, there are only 3 sets of these in the world. Mine and two guys in Europe/Russia. (The rear brakes that is.) The fronts are slightly more common, but not much more as many people go 13" rotor to fit smaller wheels. Speaking of wheels, I really like the SSR Comps. They are pretty dang light, and the quality is impressive, but the Goodyear tires are awesome! I'll buy these again evertime till something better comes along.
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
Oct 16, 2005
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looks like a great setup, adjuster. how much did that kit cost you? was it the $4k you mentioned?
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
LOL, actually it was slightly more than 4k when all was said and done.

The rear was more than the front because at the time, it was not even done before. (The first 3 versions were done, and from what I've heard, they will not make any more unless they are pre-paid.)

I also don't really advise using Precison Brakes for this kit. They took forever to do this work, and then they shipped me the wrong rotors, and then made me pay shipping to return them... Like I'm going to stiff them after spending over 4k with them? Hello? And then due to some engine problems I created and experienced, really did not get to use the brakes for quite a long time, and found the front rotors to be out of balance and coated with zinc unevenly, so they pulsed... (Pretty shitty to pay this kind of money, and then have your new brakes cause a speed vibration, and pulse like cheap shit rotors... ) To top it off, the brake lines are just lenghts of stainless teflon hose with an adapter fitting on the "toyota" side, and NPT fittings on the other end. No clips, or other stock type fittings. So your on your own to isolate and keep the lines from getting caught on something, or chaffing to death on a sharp edge... I would much rather have the stock type replacement lines from Goodridge and then an adapter to the Wilwood calipers v/s the stock banjo fittings.

I think Andy in AZ has a better 13" kit, and would make anyone a better 14" kit if you wanted to spend the money.

Keep in mind what wheels you have, or want to buy to fit over your new brakes too. The larger front calipers don't fit over many wheels, but the rear ones appear they would fit most 18" wheels. (Clearance on the sides is the problem for most wheels. Notice how close the spokes are to my front calipers? The SSR Comp's will fit just about every brake caliper you would want to use. I think the 8 piston ones from the Toureg would be an upgrade... LOL
 

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
4,940
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Victoria BC
man i wish i chould forum a senteance like that or book

i still find a drilled rotor to bite harder then a slotted or full sloted rotor caus eof the gas excapeing thosu are really whatt eh holes are fore then they just vent pout the vain



but will fad out cause of lack of matrial

one compay that make's some spiffy shit that i never knew about was ps it's a long read

and i really liek there new rotor idea pretty sweet if you ask me

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/catalog06.pdf