Drain Train Vibration/noise

[NewGen]

Hey Guys,

I'm looking for some input on some problems my car is having now. I was out launching the car preparing the drag strip next weekend. The car has 245/50/16 nitto 555'rs aired down to 20 psi, on a 2step and making 516whp/434 trq.

The last launch I did in the car it seemed to spin threw 1st 2nd and 3rd no wheel hop and I was pedaling best I could. After I let off I noticed something was off. Everytime I went to shift gears the engagement was really really rough (The car has a 6 puck unsprung as is) and the car would lurch. I limped it to the gas station go out and looked everything over. Got back in the car when to leave and when I would let the clutch out I could feel I vibration in the pedal then it would engage rough. The tires would then spin like crazy no matter how much throttle I had.

Well I went home jacked the car up and looked everything over underneath. Everything looked to be fine, I checked the drive shaft, trans mount, visually inspected the pressure plate and flywheel as best I could. I then spun the drivers side tire while I had a buddy holding the other tire. The rear dif is fully locked. Which explains why it would lurch really bad. Is it possible that could be the vibration and rough engagement also? Is there any doubt I may of fucked my clutch up as well? The clutch didn't smell at all is the strange part.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I have a 4.30lsd out of a n/a sport if worse comes to worse I could throw it in quick. I'm just looking for some advise. I would under the impression these difs were pretty strong.

Thanks

Matt

 

[IJ.]

What driveshaft?

 

[NewGen]

Its the stock 2 piece

 

[hvyman]

I would think its more of the rear End then the clutch. Gould last more than a few launches. I've beat the crap out of mine and it's still fine. Dm stage 2 6puvk.

 

[NewGen]

thats encouraging thanks man . Guess its time to swap difs then.

 

[NewGen]

Well I dropped the differential and in the process ended up cracking my subframe where the passenger side bolt goes up through to attach the dif to the subframe.

Mark1987supra and I disassembled the differential. There wasn't anything to alarming. The clutch packs themselves had some wear and hot spots. I reassembled everything and will put this dif back in the car.

I think i'm going to go ahead and drop the transmission to inspect the clutch and pressure plate. The same pressure plate has been in the car for 5 years and probably has over 25,000 miles on it not to mention all the other abuse i've put on the car.

Any other input would be great!

Thanks

Matt

 

[te72]

I think i'm going to go ahead and drop the transmission to inspect the clutch and pressure plate. The same pressure plate has been in the car for 5 years and probably has over 25,000 miles on it not to mention all the other abuse i've put on the car.

Any other input would be great!

You managed 25k out of a clutch? :golfclap:

I'm impressed... anyway, I may have missed it, but how is your center carrier bearing? I know those are prone to a short life once you start upping the power and abusing it.

 

[NewGen]

I've been through 3 6 puck disks on the same pressure plate One lasted 3 years, one lasted 1500 miles lol and this last one I suspect could be bad. The mating surface of the pressure plate was looking pretty bad last time I had it pulled. I didn't have the extra money to buy a new one.

I've looked at the carrier a few times thinking that might be it. It use to have play and doesn't anymore. Maybe the bearing could be bound up? Once i'm in gear and cruising it's fine. If I put any power behind it then it hops really bad and has no power. Let me get some picitures of the carrier best I can tonight and post them up.

Thanks Brad

 

[te72]

Sure thing man, that was my only thought worth contributing in this case. I've never heard of a carrier bearing fixing itself, so... I'd still be suspecting that.

 

[hvyman]

Mine fixed itself. No idea why or how. Got huge vibration getting off fwy and the next day back to my house. Day after that it was fine. Dunno why.

 

[NewGen]

Well hopefully for my sake it did the same thing lol.

My subframe cracked really bad around the passenger side dif bolt anyways so I needed to drop my subframe and replace it. I took the good one out of my parts car last night. The plan is to bolt it up and run the 4.30lsd out of it for awhile to eliminate subframe factor maybe causing the dif to flex and the dif itself.

If i'm still having issues i'm going to closely assess the carrier. If thats not an issue I suppose i'll have to drop the transmission and inspect the clutch/flywheel. Mark brought me over a used RPS stage 3 last night he had lying around .

Thanks to everyone that's helped I really appreciate all the input and ideas!

Matt

 

[te72]

For what it's worth, HPF has a carrier bearing that is on clearance. Would have bought it myself, but the money can go toward a one piece later, it should be fine until then.

 

[gtsfirefighter]

Check the rear section of your driveshaft to see if it's out of phase. If it is it will become unbalanced and vibrate.

 

[NewGen]

Thanks Guys, If the drive shaft ends up being the issue i'm having i will probably just go 1 piece.


I started on the new subframe last night. It was being a huge whore. We ended up having to blow all the bolts out for the lower control arms because the bushings were seized on. It's finally ready for a good wiring brushing and paint.

 

[SideWinderGX]

You won't regret having a lightweight 1 piece on there, you'll notice the difference!

 

[NewGen]

Well guys after a month i've finally goten to the bottom of things. I kinda feel guilty running the car hard enough to cause this kind of damage.

This clutch had between 2000-3000 miles.

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

Wow haha that thing is de-STROYED! Pretty intense heat on the flywheel too with it discolored like that. I was going to mention that driveshaft issues can be tough to diagnose at times, but that right here just might be your problem. It's definitely tough to argue against a lightweight one piece, as long as it can handle abuse!

 

[NewGen]

Wow haha that thing is de-STROYED! Pretty intense heat on the flywheel too with it discolored like that. I was going to mention that driveshaft issues can be tough to diagnose at times, but that right here just might be your problem. It's definitely tough to argue against a lightweight one piece, as long as it can handle abuse!

I've heard the same thing about the drive shaft. I'm just a little leary replacing it right now because I may going to v160 in the future for peace of mind.

I'm putting a RPS stage 3 back in the car now and i'm really wondering how long its going to last. I think this one went so fast because I was doing a lot of launching and practicing back to back causing a lot of heat. Kinda stupid on my part.

 

[te72]

Oh wow! I thought my buddy was hard on his clutches... I would suggest you either buy a twin disk (those high pressure RPS clutches have a bad reputation for destroying cranks), or decide on that V160 and a twin disk. Might even need a triple, at the level you're working with...

 

[NewGen]

Oh wow! I thought my buddy was hard on his clutches... I would suggest you either buy a twin disk (those high pressure RPS clutches have a bad reputation for destroying cranks), or decide on that V160 and a twin disk. Might even need a triple, at the level you're working with...

I think what did it in is I was launching the car back to back causing it to get hott hense the rainbow on my flywheel haha. I'm guessing that just ate away at my clutch material.

It's the black pressure plate not the blue one. Have you still heard of the lighter pressure plates causing problems? One thing i'm very leary about. I was also looking at the HPF Bronze clutch what are your opinions there?

I'll post a picture up of the pressure plate but i'm almost certain it's to far gone. Whatever it is I just need it to last till this winter so 4 or 5 more months.