Pm IJ about them ARPs he would know. but i dont think 5 or 10 lbs over recomended torque would warrent buying new ones.
do u mean YOU CAN????? or can't?? doesn't matter anyways I found it today anyways.dropped it off at the machine shop. But I will go there tommrow and make sure they get it on at 36lbs. Also the hot tanked the block but said they checked the coolant passages so its all fine.IJ. said:Brett: The 7M is a non interference motor meaning the valves can't hit the pistons no matter how the belt is installed so YOU can't fit it later once you find the Tensioner.
One point here is when you install it you MUST use a torque wrench and tighten it to 36 ft/lbs this is very important.
+10 ft/lbs won't hurt the ARP hardware.
OOOOOOOOOO ok that makes more sense I will have to look again mabye I have it in the kit if not ummm i dunno hopefully napa can help me out or someting......IJ. said:Thermostat housing uses a rubber o-ring on the T Stat to seal.
that sounds like alot of work especiall after I spent alot of time and money to get it this way. I like the way it looks the red is bit bright but will probaly fade with time.Justin727 said:good stuff man,
I like the progress but one thing thats not what i would do is paint everything that brite redish orange. I would strip the paint off the valve covers and 3000 pipe, upper ic piping, and timing cover.
Paint the upper ic pipe semi gloss black or flat black, polish the 3000 pipe and spray the valve covers semi or flat black, get a new timing cover and keep it black. Also polish the intake manifold. Therefore you'll have an even amount on both sides of the bay now that you have a pretty intake pipe and your red in the bay wont be the first thing you see when you pop the hood.
Black, red, and polished parts flow well under the hood as long as its all an even amount and not an abundance.
Otherwise good work my friend. Not bangin on your work you did great! Keep it up