Do you run more oil then 4 quarts in your supra?

siman

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drjonez said:
very nice. i could use one of those....i haven't found a good spot for oil temp yet...


Didnt your sandwhich plate come with two ports, one for temp and one for pressure?
Every other plate/adapter I have come across does...weird.

DC, you cant blow your head gasket from oil pressure...thats just insane LOL.

DR.j or anyone else that can answer this,

how much more PSI did you increase running the N/A filter bracket? was it 15-20lbs?

-Jonathan
 

drjonez

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siman said:
Didnt your sandwhich plate come with two ports, one for temp and one for pressure?
Every other plate/adapter I have come across does...weird.

DC, you cant blow your head gasket from oil pressure...thats just insane LOL.

DR.j or anyone else that can answer this,

how much more PSI did you increase running the N/A filter bracket? was it 15-20lbs?

-Jonathan

show me the ports on this sandwich tstat:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal.htm

oil press is WAY up using the NA setup- 10ish @ idle, 60+ @ 3500+.....
 

siman

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Parden me Dr.J, I was talking about the filter sandwhich from greddy ( just as a reference) :icon_cool
grd_oilrelocation.jpg



There are also ebay branded sandwhiches...look identicle for around $70ish dollars.....bang for the buck? Yes. Quality, who knows anymore..its just metal.

-Jonathan
 

siman

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side note question,

How long do those "automatic 180 degree" thermostats last in those sandwhich adapters???

That kind of scares me a little. I would rather have a regular adapter and then have a oil temp gauge to meter temp...either way its a turbo car, oil is going to be very hot...and needs to cool....rarely have I ever heard of a turbo car's oil getting too cold....(unless your in the friggen frigid arctic).
 

drjonez

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siman said:
side note question,

How long do those "automatic 180 degree" thermostats last in those sandwhich adapters???

That kind of scares me a little. I would rather have a regular adapter and then have a oil temp gauge to meter temp...either way its a turbo car, oil is going to be very hot...and needs to cool....rarely have I ever heard of a turbo car's oil getting too cold....(unless your in the friggen frigid arctic).

as long as they can?

your "ideas" about oil temp are completely false....but do what ya want....
 

siman

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drjonez said:
as long as they can?

your "ideas" about oil temp are completely false....but do what ya want....


They werent ideas, you cannot dissagree that turbo's consistantly run hotter oil temperatures than a N/A motor would.

I just want a gauge ( metering device ) to show what temperature I am at and also have a more responsive oil pressure gauge.

Thats all. LOL :drink1:

-Jonathan
 
M

MisterTurbineTwister

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Just to straighten a few things out:

- Running 1 quart of oil more in a stock system will not prevent a spun bearing. That statement is too generalized and in some cases that call for 3.5-4 quarts, running an extra quart could be the last thing you do to that engine.

- Adding more oil to an "older" engine is not the correct way to deal with loose tolerances. Moving up in oil viscosity numbers helps float moving parts within bearings that have bigger displacement area between the moving part and the bearing, but adding more of the same viscosity oil does not correct the problem. If you are losing more oil than normally consumed between oil changes, you need to correct the consumption problem. Be it leaks, bad ring seals, bad crankcase ventilation system or whatever the problem is, the oil loss will not correct itself by adding more oil.

- Running 10W30 Oil is not a good idea in ANY 7M-GE or 7M-GTE engine. 10W40 is the lowest recommended viscosity and is for constantly colder weather (below freezing). 15W40 is the base line viscosity recommended for naturally aspirated and turbocharged 7M engines.

- Running higher oil pressures will not damage your head gasket. The oil passages that run through your head gasket that feed the cylinder head and camshafts oil have absolutely no way of destroying themselves from a higher oil pressure. Blown head gaskets are usually caused by a combination of high cylinder combustion pressure and high cylinder temperatures that the head gasket simply cannot withstand.

- A crank scraper and or a windage tray is an excellent idea to prevent windage from oil contact with the crankshaft when the vehicle is in motion.

The truth is that raised oil level, even in small amounts does add to crankshaft windage. Adding a quart of additional oil, no matter the level, to an otherwise full system is still adding a quart of fluid to the amount of oil that is inside the oil pan. This means that you run the risk of having additional fluid from the added quart making contact with the crankshaft. A quart of fluid carries its own mass, no matter it's location or level in the oil pan.
 

americanjebus

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im with you mrturbinetwister on the part of adding "too" much oil , yea 5 quarts is where i stay mainly because i am still totally stock mechanicaly. i run 10w40 but only because mobil 1 doesnt seem to sell 15w40 anywhere near my town.

and yea like you said oil wont fix damaged metal parts, so adding wont fix anything.
 

siman

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Adding the extra amount of oil in the system was mainly intended to be for people who take hard turns....being that the motor starves itself of oil because the oil level......hence oil starvation.

But good write up turbine.

-Jonathan