developed rod knock on new motor
- Thread starter spoolint78
- Start date
Nick M said:
Then maybe you ought to look it up for yourself, instead of relying on others input and then calling it BS.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=70
You got a tude.
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I think you completely missed the point he was making mr suprabad. His statement was in response to ....
suprabad said:
I think you completely missed the point he was making mr suprabad. His statement was in response to ....
NickM is a very knowledgeable and respected member of the community…….spoolint78 said:
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i think one of the problems was the lack of a oil thermostat inline.
My builder said its still the oil cooler.
he said if i check the oil pressure on the return on the cooler it will be much lower.
(stock pump no shim).
i figure if i run a thermostat, it will bypass the cooler and go back into the motor at a much shorter distance, than going through the oil cooler.
Now for the placement of the thermostat.
i'm assuming this goes after the oil filter?
My builder said its still the oil cooler.
he said if i check the oil pressure on the return on the cooler it will be much lower.
(stock pump no shim).
i figure if i run a thermostat, it will bypass the cooler and go back into the motor at a much shorter distance, than going through the oil cooler.
Now for the placement of the thermostat.
i'm assuming this goes after the oil filter?
this builder just finished my engine as well... And today it started up in my car for the 1st time in over a year! 
He does good work, so something must have caused the problem somewhere else...
He does good work, so something must have caused the problem somewhere else...
First off, anyone could build a 700hp. 7m, but that doesn't mean that it is going to last.
IT IS NOT THE COOLER. YOU BUILDER IS WRONG......
Sorry for yelling.......
Like Ian said and many others including myself, the cooler has the T-stat built into it.
As for reading the pressure after the cooler, that is exactly what you are doing if you are using the stock pressure port location. That is post filter in a stock set up and in your case, is post filter and cooler.
The problem is from one of two possible things, either the builder got the clearances wrong, or you little miss-hap with the leak is where the problem stems from. Case closed, end of story.
IT IS NOT THE COOLER. YOU BUILDER IS WRONG......
Sorry for yelling.......
Like Ian said and many others including myself, the cooler has the T-stat built into it.
As for reading the pressure after the cooler, that is exactly what you are doing if you are using the stock pressure port location. That is post filter in a stock set up and in your case, is post filter and cooler.
The problem is from one of two possible things, either the builder got the clearances wrong, or you little miss-hap with the leak is where the problem stems from. Case closed, end of story.
CryoSlash said:this builder just finished my engine as well... And today it started up in my car for the 1st time in over a year!
He does good work, so something must have caused the problem somewhere else...
Even if a guy is a good engine builder, he could have made a mistake.
And if that mistake was the cause of rodknock, he wont admit it.
Now if he is a honest person he will and that means he will have to rebuild it all again correctly for free.
Cheers,
Roy
lol.
well this is my new setup.
sandwich plate on the block, with a filter adapter from the relocation kit going to the sandwich plate.
Out of the filter adapter from 2 lines to the filter.
Then run the other 2 lines from the sandwich plate to the cooler.
with this method, oil will come out of the sandwich to the filter, and then back (shorter distance), and the sandwich plate has a built in thermostat to the cooler, and then back to the sandwich plate back to the motor.
I think the length and size of my lines and the size of the cooler, as well as teh distance is what cause it.
he said all the bearings were beginning to wear.
well this is my new setup.
sandwich plate on the block, with a filter adapter from the relocation kit going to the sandwich plate.
Out of the filter adapter from 2 lines to the filter.
Then run the other 2 lines from the sandwich plate to the cooler.
with this method, oil will come out of the sandwich to the filter, and then back (shorter distance), and the sandwich plate has a built in thermostat to the cooler, and then back to the sandwich plate back to the motor.
I think the length and size of my lines and the size of the cooler, as well as teh distance is what cause it.
he said all the bearings were beginning to wear.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
The RX7 oil cooler you have already has a perfectly fine thermostat built into it.
The line distance from your motor to the filter to the cooler back to the motor is NOT the problem
Your low oil operation due to oil leak is the DIRECT CAUSE OF YOUR ENGINE FAILURE. (You as much told us so when you said you had lost oil pressure, then added oil and then the knock started up less than 2k later...)
Bearing damaged happened, and the due to the bearing damage, it allows the bearing to come in contact with the journal again, and again, and again, and as the wear increases, bearing to journal contact increases, and guess what?
You start to hear constant knocking that will not go away, cold or hot, thick oil or thin.
I doubt it was a bad build. I think it was low oil operation. (Like 99% of all rod knock stories...)
The line distance from your motor to the filter to the cooler back to the motor is NOT the problem
Your low oil operation due to oil leak is the DIRECT CAUSE OF YOUR ENGINE FAILURE. (You as much told us so when you said you had lost oil pressure, then added oil and then the knock started up less than 2k later...)
Bearing damaged happened, and the due to the bearing damage, it allows the bearing to come in contact with the journal again, and again, and again, and as the wear increases, bearing to journal contact increases, and guess what?
You start to hear constant knocking that will not go away, cold or hot, thick oil or thin.
I doubt it was a bad build. I think it was low oil operation. (Like 99% of all rod knock stories...)
I wouldnt see the problem if nothing is beat the heck out of. Just clean it like you're gonna eat off it.. new oil pump as well
talked to my engine builder.
were gonna shim the pump roughly 5-6mm.
is that good enough?
he said he wanted to put the shim in the valve.
so it would go as follows into the pump
valve, shim, spring then the nut to lock it in place.
I think with the shim it will help keep oil pressure up through the lines etc.
were gonna shim the pump roughly 5-6mm.
is that good enough?
he said he wanted to put the shim in the valve.
so it would go as follows into the pump
valve, shim, spring then the nut to lock it in place.
I think with the shim it will help keep oil pressure up through the lines etc.
A shimmed oil pump will not hurt anything on a good, healthy running engine of course. One that already has RK wouldn't matter though. I'd stay around 3-5mm shims personally...
ok, did you shim your motor?
i know adjuster did 10mm, but his setup is golden compared to mine.
I want to know from other who have shimmed it, and what the best results were.
I'm keeping my oil cooler setup, just shimming it out now.
i'm thinking 5mm should be sufficient.
i know adjuster did 10mm, but his setup is golden compared to mine.
I want to know from other who have shimmed it, and what the best results were.
I'm keeping my oil cooler setup, just shimming it out now.
i'm thinking 5mm should be sufficient.
Shimmed mine ~3mm...that gave me +10-15 psi of pressure. Personally I would not shim over 5mm unless I was building a high HP beast. Extra pressure is only good to the point your lines can accommodate the flow...the oil channels in the motor cannot be enlarged. Once they reach capacity, extra pressure is going to achieve little gain.