crank pulley
- Thread starter madseacow
- Start date
Use a breaker bar on a large socket wrench handle, and stand on it. (Might be a good idea to jam the fw as well so it doesn't turn).
What you should have done before you pulled the engine is to have put a breaker bar on the crank bolt, then click the starter over until it breaks the bolt loose, easiest way to do it, but impossible for you to do right now 
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.If it doesn't have the fw on, it's not impossible, you just hafta get creative. You can pull the pan and jam the right size piece of wood or something right on the crank, if you use a metal object just make sure its wrapped nicely (so you don't nick anything).
Soak the bolt in some atf or something, PB blaster, whatever, let it sit for a while, then turn your impact up high and tap and hold for about one second, let off, repeat until it starts loosening up.
take a hammer and smack the crank bolt a few times. Love taps. With a bit less love and a bit more tap.
Then get a phat piece of long pipe and stick it on your breaker bar.
I did it this way with a 2x4 jammed in between a counterweight and it worked nicely, although 2 of us were standing on the block to stop it from tipping over (it was on the ground) while Nashman torqued on it.
Then get a phat piece of long pipe and stick it on your breaker bar.
I did it this way with a 2x4 jammed in between a counterweight and it worked nicely, although 2 of us were standing on the block to stop it from tipping over (it was on the ground) while Nashman torqued on it.
mine was stuck on but it would spin the pulley slower. My friend put on some thick gloves and held the pulley while I used the gun. The resistance from him holding on to it was enough to break the bolt.
starscream5000 said:
I would agree.. I think I was lucky! I don't think the crank bolt was torqued properly.. I know how tough it was to torque it down to like 190lbs.. Not easy for me.. I only weigh a buck35..
heres how i got mine off. i screwed in 2 of the flywheel bolts and jammed a large metal bar between the 2 flywheel bolts, and the ground then i used a impact hammer that had a rediculous max torque like 700 something ftlbs. anyway that took it rite off with no problem. if you dont have an impact hammer i would reccomend a long cheater pipe. then longer the cheater pipe the better.
them's fightin words.suprarich said:
I got it off with the old wrench in the crank technique. and then proceeded to destroy the crank pulley itself. beating it with a hammer is probably not in the tsrm. Ok I know I should be publicly flogged for asking this... but can I go for an aftermarket "pulley" if I get the crank balanced?
You don't even need to get the crank balanced. I6 engines (or ours, anyway) is neutral balanced - so the crank itself is balanced, then the flywheel is balanced, then the front pulley. When you put them all together they are still balanced.
If you get a new one, buy an ATI, they are cheaper than an OEM one from Toyota, and significantly nicer.
If you get a new one, buy an ATI, they are cheaper than an OEM one from Toyota, and significantly nicer.
Length of chain and a bolt, wrap the chain around a leg on the stand and bolt it to the flywheel.
Failing that remove the pan and a chunk of timber between the block and the crank works.
Failing that remove the pan and a chunk of timber between the block and the crank works.
Can't hurt, and you should if you're shooting for high power and / or have changed your engine internals anyway.
how do I check if a machine shop is up to stuff. The shops are saying "yea it'll be flat enough" but they can't tell me wether or not it'll be atleast .15 r/a... and if Im going to have someone gnawing on my crank I'd like to feel confident that it's going to work right.