So i was doing a coolant flush recently, and everything went down hill. I think my supra hates me. Here's what happened.
Bought a new radiator drain plug from autozone, they had to order it, it was the wrong part. Brought it back and they had the right part behind the counter, even though i asked before if they had any other besides the ones on the shelf. All in all it's ok got the right part. Also picked up some PEAK antifreeze there, and some Distilled water from the local Kroger. Asked about a coolant flush solution there at autozone, they had no idea what i was talking about, the fellow that found the plug also directed me to where that was on the shelf as well! GREAT.
I figured since i was doing this i would pick up a new OEM radiator cap and OEM thermostat from Toyota south, in Morrow, GA. I should have known better as they kept trying to pass off some other 1jz or 2jz or something else sensor on my even though mine was nothing like it.
Got back home and of course the radiator cap is nothing at all like mine. It wouldn't even fit and even if it would the seal was much too recessed to work it was aboslutly wrong. The thermostat however was by the same manufacturer as mine, and both had 88 on them. I even asked the clerk there what the Operating temp was for this thermostat and he said about 180-190* F which is what i've read is stock. The Thermostat looked somewhat different, aside from the shiny new look, the opening portion was in the dead center, where as my original was slightly offset, and both of them had the little jiggle pin/valve deals. He gave me a new gasket/o-ring/gromet thing too, and with what has come to be a very ironic statement "it's only $3.00 and will save you even more in gas money looking for one."
I drained the radiator, and the block. I put my new thermostat in, flushed everything with water, added my flush kit and water and took the car for a 10 minute drive after it was at operating temp. Came back home drained everything and di another water flush, plugged her up and added my coolant and distilled water. I left to pick my girlfriend up from work, and after about 20 minutes right as i came to the stop light on the exit ramp i saw some steam and my heat hand rising! I drove the car back home with puffs of steam and erratic jumps in my temp gauge. By the time i was home coolant was pouring out of the front of my engine. I discovered the gasket on the waterpump blew out. I thought the pump was to blame, and installed a new pump and gasket. The next day the same thing happened! Except this time the Hose going from the thermostat housing to a metal fitting on the block blew, and maybe the gasket too. So i ordered a new Gasket and got a piece of radiator hose cut to length and re-installed.
I'm sure now that it was the thermostat i was given that is to blame, it was either the wrong operating temp or it was faulty. I took it out and it seemed as though with a little force it would open but it was sticking, you could see the wear on the brass portion where it was rubbing against it's frame thing. where as my old thermo would open smoothly without a stick and was not rubbing anywhere. Needless to say i stuck my old thermostat back in.
Here is where i went wrong. I made the TERRIBLE mistake of removing my CPS because i didn't know what it was and it was kind of in the way while messing with the thermostat housing. When i pulled it out and saw the gears on it i knew it had something to do with timing and that I fucked up. After i got everything back together the car would not start. I got ignition noise, and sometimes a single fire from the engine.
The next day i turned my crank over to 0* and lined up my cam pulleys with the notches on the plate behind them. I rotated the CPS helical gear so that the circular hole was aligned with the notch on the straight gear portion and stuck it back in. My battery was too low to even try to get it to start. I havn't tried since after realising that just turning the crank to 0 would not indicate TDC *duh* so i'd need to verify that by checking the #1 piston.
During this downtime i found this thread
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?38775-How-To-basic-timing-instructions-CPS-alignment
What i want to know is, will i have to set the ignition timing since the only thing i did was removed the CPS and not the timing belt.
Can i just align the red marks as shown stick it in while at TDC and everything be ok? I didn't even know about the red marks untill i found the previous thread. I was going on the circular notch and the the notch on the regular gear to indicate proper timing for the inital state of the CPS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-smo0jp5bk
This guy shows what i did pretty much except in my haste i forgot about making sure which stroke i was on when attempting to set my engine to TDC. He doesn't say anything about disassembling the CPS to align any red marks he just aligns the notches. Do i need to align the red marks?
Sorry guys i'm confused
Bought a new radiator drain plug from autozone, they had to order it, it was the wrong part. Brought it back and they had the right part behind the counter, even though i asked before if they had any other besides the ones on the shelf. All in all it's ok got the right part. Also picked up some PEAK antifreeze there, and some Distilled water from the local Kroger. Asked about a coolant flush solution there at autozone, they had no idea what i was talking about, the fellow that found the plug also directed me to where that was on the shelf as well! GREAT.
I figured since i was doing this i would pick up a new OEM radiator cap and OEM thermostat from Toyota south, in Morrow, GA. I should have known better as they kept trying to pass off some other 1jz or 2jz or something else sensor on my even though mine was nothing like it.
Got back home and of course the radiator cap is nothing at all like mine. It wouldn't even fit and even if it would the seal was much too recessed to work it was aboslutly wrong. The thermostat however was by the same manufacturer as mine, and both had 88 on them. I even asked the clerk there what the Operating temp was for this thermostat and he said about 180-190* F which is what i've read is stock. The Thermostat looked somewhat different, aside from the shiny new look, the opening portion was in the dead center, where as my original was slightly offset, and both of them had the little jiggle pin/valve deals. He gave me a new gasket/o-ring/gromet thing too, and with what has come to be a very ironic statement "it's only $3.00 and will save you even more in gas money looking for one."
I drained the radiator, and the block. I put my new thermostat in, flushed everything with water, added my flush kit and water and took the car for a 10 minute drive after it was at operating temp. Came back home drained everything and di another water flush, plugged her up and added my coolant and distilled water. I left to pick my girlfriend up from work, and after about 20 minutes right as i came to the stop light on the exit ramp i saw some steam and my heat hand rising! I drove the car back home with puffs of steam and erratic jumps in my temp gauge. By the time i was home coolant was pouring out of the front of my engine. I discovered the gasket on the waterpump blew out. I thought the pump was to blame, and installed a new pump and gasket. The next day the same thing happened! Except this time the Hose going from the thermostat housing to a metal fitting on the block blew, and maybe the gasket too. So i ordered a new Gasket and got a piece of radiator hose cut to length and re-installed.
I'm sure now that it was the thermostat i was given that is to blame, it was either the wrong operating temp or it was faulty. I took it out and it seemed as though with a little force it would open but it was sticking, you could see the wear on the brass portion where it was rubbing against it's frame thing. where as my old thermo would open smoothly without a stick and was not rubbing anywhere. Needless to say i stuck my old thermostat back in.
Here is where i went wrong. I made the TERRIBLE mistake of removing my CPS because i didn't know what it was and it was kind of in the way while messing with the thermostat housing. When i pulled it out and saw the gears on it i knew it had something to do with timing and that I fucked up. After i got everything back together the car would not start. I got ignition noise, and sometimes a single fire from the engine.
The next day i turned my crank over to 0* and lined up my cam pulleys with the notches on the plate behind them. I rotated the CPS helical gear so that the circular hole was aligned with the notch on the straight gear portion and stuck it back in. My battery was too low to even try to get it to start. I havn't tried since after realising that just turning the crank to 0 would not indicate TDC *duh* so i'd need to verify that by checking the #1 piston.
During this downtime i found this thread
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?38775-How-To-basic-timing-instructions-CPS-alignment
What i want to know is, will i have to set the ignition timing since the only thing i did was removed the CPS and not the timing belt.
Can i just align the red marks as shown stick it in while at TDC and everything be ok? I didn't even know about the red marks untill i found the previous thread. I was going on the circular notch and the the notch on the regular gear to indicate proper timing for the inital state of the CPS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-smo0jp5bk
This guy shows what i did pretty much except in my haste i forgot about making sure which stroke i was on when attempting to set my engine to TDC. He doesn't say anything about disassembling the CPS to align any red marks he just aligns the notches. Do i need to align the red marks?
Sorry guys i'm confused
