Ah, I see. NGK say as long as you use a wire gauge (with the little bending tool built in - I also have tiny pliers) you should be fine gapping Iridium.
That ground strap thing was not an Iridium specific rule I had heard. Just in general.
Thanks for chopstick tip. I believe this will help me get everything back inline again. Screw taking the timing gear cover off and dealing with coolant. I almost had it earlier but I couldnt advance the sensor anymore to get it quite where it needed to be. Hopefully just one more time tomorrow in the colddddd..... I hope people will find this thread a little helpful in the future. I searched but couldnt find a specific thread on this. Ill let yall know what happens. I also had already done the proceedure in the tsrm for TDC but set it around 10ish. Ill get it where it needs to be this time.
Sooo... went another round with the supra. TDC'd the engine with a chopstick. Put it all back together. Before I slid the cps into place I put some lithium greese around the oring to help it seal good. When I turned the motor with the starter I couldnt get a signal on my tach and the engine didnt start. I did have a weak battery which didnt help any. Is it also possible that the lithium greese is messing up the connection betweem the sensor and the head. I dunno if it needs to connect to gound itself or what but... WTF.. it was getting enough to run somewhat yesterday.
Wish I had a nice warm garage to do surgery in. Ill be back at it again tomorrow morning. Guess I'll be watching for the cam lobe this time around to be visible through the oil cap port... :cry:
Well the car still won't start when it gets warmed up. It didnt throw any codes when I drove it earlier. Im starting to think that the ground wire from the coils to the fuelrail is bad or not making very good contact.... Ideas? Tach doesnt move when the motor is turning on the starter..surely im not working with another bad cps?
Well today I finally got around to installing the new Coilstrap that I made from a aftermarket relay setup that I had off one of my parts cars. I used this wire because it was a little bit thicker gauge than the wire used in our harnesses. I actually used used 2 wires of equal length as one ground. Well the car runs better than it ever has for me. I believe all the wiring issues have been solved now. The car doesnt even sputter anymore when it starts. Beefing up the grounds on our cars seems like a smart idea for anyone
Another way you can tell if the motor is at TDC if you u suspect the crank pulley has slipped is the woodruff key on the crank itself will be at the 12 o'clock position. But make sure the number one piston is up as IJ has said first.
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