cooling system upgrade time

[viper92086]

ok so i think it's time for me to upgrade my cooling system. when i was at the track i noticed my coolant started boiling (i think... it was making a bubbling sound in the overflow tank until everything finally cooled down). i did loose some coolant but once refilled the car was fine. The needle on the guage never moved more than half way, so i'm assuming that the car never really overheated. i just ordered a greddy temp gauge and i'm about to order a 3 row aluminum rad and some electric fans. are there any specific thermostats i should be running? right now i'm on a 1 year old stock koyo with toyota red and autozone rad cap and thermostat. i will be getting more into road racing so i def want to upgrade the best i can. any suggestions?


also has anyone else ever encountered the boiling problem i had at the track? i drove 500 miles to canada, then tracked twice and drove home another 500 miles and the car drove fine. i had to add coolant before and after the track tho. but other than that and the boiling, i had no problems.:1zhelp:

 

[V8hntr]

When I am cruising on the highway at 70mph the temperature is at a steady 200 deg F as indicated by the the autometer gauge but when I do a few full boost pulls the temperature creeps to 205 or so and comes back down to 195-200. I have a 14 inch electric fan which I switch from inside, stock readiator, new toyota thermostat and running 50/50 mix. The stock temp gauge does nt move. After shutting off the car the fluid on the overflow resevoir doesnt boild over on mine. It used to do that when I used to have a BHG.

I do get overheating when I am sitting at the light with the fan off.

 

[figgie]

Viper

track as in road racing? If so, forgo the electric and stick with mechanical.

 

[Rennat]

if you guys kept the stock turbo clutch fan it would run better BTW... ask me how i know.

and you may need a new rad. cap viper, i had the same problem, it was boiling, but once i did that it was fine.

 

[noel]

doesnt the stock fan Rob horsepower!

 

[Rennat]

doesnt the stock fan Rob horsepower!

doesnt your power steering rob horsepower? doesnt your alternator rob horsepower? doesnt the waterpump rob horsepower? its minimal. its not going to make you run ULTRA fast without it. just keep it. and its also designed to put minimal load during high speed, which is why it has that 'clutch' between it and the waterpump.

 

[viper92086]

Viper

track as in road racing? If so, forgo the electric and stick with mechanical.

yea as in road racing. i want to stick with mechanical but if i go with a 3 row then the fan fits farther into the shroud thus i think its becomes over efficient. i would also like to have an electric fan so that i can keep it running even after i finish tracking.

if you guys kept the stock turbo clutch fan it would run better BTW... ask me how i know.

and you may need a new rad. cap viper, i had the same problem, it was boiling, but once i did that it was fine.

it could be.. my friend was saying the cap wasn't designed for high performance. he was saying daily driving it shouldn't be a problem but once you start tracking i would want to upgrade.

When I am cruising on the highway at 70mph the temperature is at a steady 200 deg F as indicated by the the autometer gauge but when I do a few full boost pulls the temperature creeps to 205 or so and comes back down to 195-200. I have a 14 inch electric fan which I switch from inside, stock readiator, new toyota thermostat and running 50/50 mix. The stock temp gauge does nt move. After shutting off the car the fluid on the overflow resevoir doesnt boild over on mine. It used to do that when I used to have a BHG.

I do get overheating when I am sitting at the light with the fan off.

i sure as hell hope its not a BHG lol. it was a new oem headgasket installed with arp studs (81lbs) at 50k orig miles, not because it blew, but because i felt like fixing the problem before it blew. the problem with the stock setup is that i dont think it can keep up. when i'm road racing my motor is in boost more than half the time. i usually put about 50-100miles on the car during each track day.





do you guys have any recommendations for thermostats? as for the rad i was thinkin about picking up a mishimoto from the gb that another member is selling. it comes with a 1.1bar cap.


also has anyone else had the boiling problem but not had a bhg? im a bit worried but i see no signs of a bhg since then. actually i'm not even sure if u can call it boiling. what i got was a bubbling sound from the pressure escaping thru the overflow after doing a 20 min pedal to the metal non stop run. i let the car idle for 10-15 min and never had the problem again. of course i had to fill the coolant at the end. but i had friend suggest that my cap was going bad and let air in the system since after i tracked i could see the remenants of coolant leaking all around the cap.

 

[Rennat]

1.1bar = 16psi = oem cap


get a better rad. koyo or fluidyne... i would be worried about mushi's quality...
and you could try a colder thermostat, that way it opens sooner and longer, because your gonna be at operating temps no problem if your in boost a lot like you are.

 

[viper92086]

doesnt the stock fan Rob horsepower!

doesnt your power steering rob horsepower? doesnt your alternator rob horsepower? doesnt the waterpump rob horsepower? its minimal. its not going to make you run ULTRA fast without it. just keep it. and its also designed to put minimal load during high speed, which is why it has that 'clutch' between it and the waterpump.

i'm not really concerned about robbing any horse power lol. i jsut want the best cooling that will work both in summer and winter. the clutch on my fan is brand new and i would rather use mechanical. but i rather not have the shroud that close to the fan neither. i will have a greddy temp guage to monitor temps closely so i am leaning towards electric still so that i can have the ability to leave the fan running. After i track and pull into the pits i of course leave the car running for a couple of minutes to cool, but a fan on even after the engine is off i think would be great.

 

[viper92086]

1.1bar = 16psi = oem cap


get a better rad. koyo or fluidyne... i would be worried about mushi's quality...

really? my cap says .9 bar... wtf


edit: i just checked on autozone and it is a 13psi cap... dammit... i checked both turbo and non turbo motor, can anyone confirm?


i guess that sucks if its wrong. but i might as well upgrade for future.

 

[Rennat]

i believe its 1bar = 15psi... but i'll go double check.

1bar = 14.503psi

and actually... my cap says 0.9.... damn autozone. get a oem cap or an aftermarket one.
what the tsrm says about the cap...
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CO&P=3

 

[jdub]

Yep...you really don't want a higher rated rad cap. Stick with the TSRM range.

 

[V8hntr]

doesnt your power steering rob horsepower? doesnt your alternator rob horsepower? doesnt the waterpump rob horsepower? its minimal. its not going to make you run ULTRA fast without it. just keep it. and its also designed to put minimal load during high speed, which is why it has that 'clutch' between it and the waterpump.

yes sir, I agree. Electric fans dont provide that much advantage over mechanical unless there are packaging issues

 

[V8hntr]

yea as in road racing. i want to stick with mechanical but if i go with a 3 row then the fan fits farther into the shroud thus i think its becomes over efficient. i would also like to have an electric fan so that i can keep it running even after i finish tracking.





it could be.. my friend was saying the cap wasn't designed for high performance. he was saying daily driving it shouldn't be a problem but once you start tracking i would want to upgrade.





i sure as hell hope its not a BHG lol. it was a new oem headgasket installed with arp studs (81lbs) at 50k orig miles, not because it blew, but because i felt like fixing the problem before it blew. the problem with the stock setup is that i dont think it can keep up. when i'm road racing my motor is in boost more than half the time. i usually put about 50-100miles on the car during each track day.





do you guys have any recommendations for thermostats? as for the rad i was thinkin about picking up a mishimoto from the gb that another member is selling. it comes with a 1.1bar cap.


also has anyone else had the boiling problem but not had a bhg? im a bit worried but i see no signs of a bhg since then. actually i'm not even sure if u can call it boiling. what i got was a bubbling sound from the pressure escaping thru the overflow after doing a 20 min pedal to the metal non stop run. i let the car idle for 10-15 min and never had the problem again. of course i had to fill the coolant at the end. but i had friend suggest that my cap was going bad and let air in the system since after i tracked i could see the remenants of coolant leaking all around the cap.

I dont thing it is a BHG for your case, just your stock cooling system capacity is surpassed. Like the guys suggested, I would replace the radiator, the cap and a more accurate gauge. Be careful, since even brief time overheating will warp the Alumimum head.

 

[Rennat]

yes sir, I agree. Electric fans dont provide that much advantage over mechanical unless there are packaging issues

the only way i see an e-fan setup being better than the clutch fan is if you had twin fans in front of it and a 14'' in back... but with 3 fans kickin with at least 10amps each, your alternator wont be very happy.

hell, the mercedes my dad just worked on had a stock clutch fan with a shroud AND dual 12'' electric fans in front!!!!!! 100% oem too...

 

[GrimJack]

Don't worry about the shroud getting to close, I have the PWR radiator in mine, it's freaking HUGE, and the shroud still fits. It's a bitch to put in, have to put in the shroud and all three fans at once, but it still fits fine.

 

[1-2clutch-u]

yes we are .9bar and i need a shroud mine cracked up. help or i can do e fans

 

[Poodles]

Get a shroud, it's cheaper.

If you want to leave the fans on after you've raced, you can setup a switch to turn the aux. fans on and still have the stock fan clutch setup.

 

[viper92086]

^ i have the shroud. is it just me or does anyone elses fan sound like a truck? i have 2 turbo fan clutches. one is a oem one and one is a torqueflo (replacement from autozone). the oem has very little resistance, even after i have driven the car hard. the torqueflo has much much more resistance, not enough to say its locked up, but enough to sound like a truck when cold. once warmed up however i noticed i dont hear it as much. Its about 6 months old.

also does anyone have numbers for the cfm the stock fan pulls at idle and at certian rpms?

 

[viper92086]

i know alot of your will hate me but i've been playing with the idea of finding a SHO fan 16" version. or a dual fan ford fan. for those of you familar with what i'm talkin about, have u ever used them?

i'm just playing with ideas here, i'm still with the stock clutch fan, but i'm open for electric too if i can find something that will cover the whole rad