Control Arm Bushing Help, Poly Energy Suspension

[JMofIRW]

Hey guys

I have been working on these bushings for weeks now.

My machinists says he can not push them in as they are way too big.

I tried many methods and am still stuck

I am driving an 87 turbo MA70


http://www.energysuspension.com/pdf_instruc/17522.PDF

Those are the instructions.

I understand Trailing link is the Strut rod (per TSRM)
Toe Link is Suspension Arm 1, arm with swaybar endlink (as per tsrm)
Lateral Link is Suspension arm 2, rectangular bar (as per tsrm)

Now matching this up with the bushings in the instructions, my machinist says it needs to be lathed about 1/16 of an inch.

Energy says its direct fit.

I do not know what to do! I need this in so i can get the car back together and retorque my head and tune her up.

 

[martin p]

Hasthe metal part of the factory bush been removed? as this would stop the new bush fitting.

 

[JMofIRW]

Just found out that is my problem. Since I burned out the bushing there is still the extremely tight shell on the ID of the control arm.

I am working on removing it.

I suggest not burning them out as it seems I am going to have to press this out anyhow, would've been easier as 1 piece.

working on it right now, so if it works i'll explain how for anyone in the future, i am using a vice, but if necessary will go back to my machinist tomorrow morning. Hopefully i can finish it tonight.

Thanks


I attached the picture Energy Suspension Engineer Brian Littlejohn sent me, he is the one who actually made these.

They have been helpful in this long and annoying process. If I wouldve had my machinist do it in the first place, would've saved much hassle.

 

[martin p]

Just found out that is my problem. Since I burned out the bushing there is still the extremely tight shell on the ID of the control arm.

I am working on removing it.

I suggest not burning them out as it seems I am going to have to press this out anyhow, would've been easier as 1 piece.

working on it right now, so if it works i'll explain how for anyone in the future, i am using a vice, but if necessary will go back to my machinist tomorrow morning. Hopefully i can finish it tonight.

Thanks

Hacksaw, and cut into the sleeve and then chisel it out, quicker and easier than trying to press it out,

 

[JMofIRW]

I was trying the hacksaw method, Didn't seem to work very well for me, I am scared I will cut into the CA a little. Any tips for it? I also have a sawzall. I'll try the hacksaw method again!

 

[martin p]

you should be ok, they are about 1/16th thick i reckon so cut into it until nearly thru and then open it up with a hammer and chisel,

Have a look here this if for the front but the idea is the same

http://www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=24441&highlight=lower+arm+bushes

 

[JMofIRW]

Thats a beautiful guide, but as you get to the part I am needing help you say, you had someone else do it, so it wasn't any help for now,

But when I do my fronts at least I have some pics to go by for the removal and such.

nice work

 

[martin p]

sorry, didn't realise there was no pictures of that Bit! If I did the guide it would have been complete!

keep at it with the hacksaw, just keep checking you haven't gone through the bush sleeve, you should notice if you have, because you will see some rusty looking swarf, and when its through, attack it with the hammer and chisel,

 

[JMofIRW]

Ahh i thought u wrote that!

Thanks a lot im going to do it now. Again I really appreciate this, as this has definitely been the hardest line of work on my MK3 thus far!

 

[shaeff]

Hacksaw, and cut into the sleeve and then chisel it out, quicker and easier than trying to press it out,

This.

 

[Wiisass]

Don't hacksaw it. Or at least don't cut into the arm at all.

Just take it to a machine shop, they'll have a press and something that will fit in there on the sleeve and push it out. That way it goes out without any issues.

And for everyone else, don't burn out control arm bushings. Just use a press or find someone with a press or pay someone with a press to remove/replace them. It's a lot easier, cleaner and takes no time at all.

 

[JMofIRW]

Used a Sawzall did very little/no damage to the arms. caused a lil rough patch so i just hit it with the dremel.

Rear passenger side is done!

Thanks!

Wiisas, if you know a shop in NY that can do that please let me know. I really want it done by a machinist as it took a good 20 minutes to burn out each bushing, about 20 minutes per sleeve removal. So yeah it's a total of 40 minutes a bushing with my tools. Thats what... 240 minutes a side! 480 minutes for the rear alone estimated. I definitely agree with you!

I have called about 7 machine shops in my area, one allowed me to come in and he tried to help, but wasn't able to get the sleeve out.

Every other shop does not want to get involved with cars they say.

This is an insane job, don't get into it unless you know what it is in its entirety.

Reassembly was insanely hard, still not all back together, but basically done. and that s only 1/4.

 

[shaeff]

^ Hell, if you were closer I'd say give me the stuff you want pressed out. My best friend works at a shop, and lets me use the press and lifts whenever I want.

On a side note, before I had access to that, very careful work with a hacksaw never let me down, and I never cut into any control arms.

 

[JMofIRW]

yeah man, i always think "if shaeff was closer"

I'm going to try and use an arbor press to get them out for the front and rear driver. I worry about using the hacksaw/sawzall. Cuz it's hard to see when you will hit. I kept stopping early and used the sharp screwdriver to finish the job really. But still worry about touching the CA!

 

[shaeff]

Seriously, I'm always up for helping out!

 

[Grimsta]

Arbor press for the front, HA HA! If you're having this trouble with the rears the fronts will BEWILDER you.

Pressing out takes like 5 minutes for the lot arms and links you got. The thing that takes the most on the rear is the bushing thats actually in the spindle. Other than that, you pull out the links take it to a press and they're out in 10 seconds. The front UCAs are just as easy as the rear UCA. All you have to do is use a socket or something thats the same size as the metal sleeve on the inside of the UCA bushings and press that out. Since the UCAs DONT have an outter bushing shell like all the others the rubber presses right out easily. BUt the front LCAs have an outter shell that flare out on one edge so you have to bend that edge back so you can press it out.
On the front LCAs I used an air hammer w/ chisel to chisel back lip of the bushings sleeve, and then used that same air hammer to hammer the bushing out once I had bent the edges in. Those did take about 10-20 mins. per LCA

 

[JMofIRW]

great thank you, my front bushings were on backorder so they should be here next week. don't know when ill actually install with the snow coming.

 

[JZ_killa_t68]

Don't hacksaw it. Or at least don't cut into the arm at all.

Just take it to a machine shop, they'll have a press and something that will fit in there on the sleeve and push it out. That way it goes out without any issues.

And for everyone else, don't burn out control arm bushings. Just use a press or find someone with a press or pay someone with a press to remove/replace them. It's a lot easier, cleaner and takes no time at all.

Exactly. I've got me an arbor press on my christmas list amonst other things...

 

[JMofIRW]

Anyone have tips on shoving the Upper Control Arm in place when the bushings are in? It's extremely tough cuz the new bushings are so nice and thick. I am so close, but it got way to cold out.

 

[shaeff]

Just use some muscle. Mine go in w/ a little muscle, and I've got Nylon UCA bushings.

Oh yeah, and you best hope that your eccentric bolts aren't seized on the front LCA's. If they are, you're in for a serious treat.