johnathan1 said:
well said ^^
Figit: If you don't plan on staying with the Supra long term, then don't waste our time, and I'm trying hard not to be a jerk
. If you want to stay with the Supra, you have to recognise that it is quite old, and as any other car would be, is prone to age-related issues...oh, and the Head gasket....
I apologise if anyone felt i was waisting their time...i tend to get a bit ahead of myself sometimes. I have no intention of getting rid of my supra for a long time, the engine would be more likely to change but i just see all the swaps happening and get anxious, along with the tapping and thought of a rod knock...then i think of just saving money for a new engine, but then that makes me think of just saving a bit more for a whole new car WITH the engine already in. But i have a perfectly good car right now and thats kinda silly.
Supramacist: yeah, i have most tools needed but precision engine tools i dont have. I have PLEANTY of the tools needed to take apart and put my car together, i just dont have some of the reccomended calibration tools that mechanics have. I will buy those as needed. Good heads up though..and thanks. I keep a full tool set in my car.
I know my car is old, and as such more matenince is a given and i knew that when I picked her up.... its just the rod knock... I'll admit right now I dont know a TON about the tolerances of vehicles as of yet, but i know how they work for the most part, you get the idea...
with that said, i was just thinking a rod knock would be a mileage related issue because the engine is a rather sealed environment and unless there is some synthetic in the works i wouldnt think that bad bearings would be a problem unless the car was abused. that could be the case though. I'll just take everybodys advice and hope for the best
. I'm going to do more searches with the info i have now to find out more about the oil blockage when i get a chance...i'll try and post it if i get the info because it seems others have the issue. I heard it again a bit ago when i started it up, but not as violent as before.... we'll see what happens.
edit-----
davidtt87 said:
do not switch the oil, it will only make the oil move slower and get to the bearings slower on cold starts. to see if it is rod knock the only way is to slowly hold revs until you hear knocking and unplug spark plusg one by one until the sound goes away. this is easiest way for me to tell without a scope.
thanks...i'll probably try that if i find a RPM that i can hear it.