Hey guys, just kinda wondering if anyone has had this same issue at all.... I put a 7m-gte in my originally ge car and it ran pretty well after fixing a small issue with the rear knock sensor. After about a week I kept getting afm codes and my car would run like crap at idle. So figgie came over and we readjusted all of the connection pins on the plugs on that side of the harness and it went away for a bit. Now it just becomes a nuisance and throws the code ONLY at idle and it wont do it all the time . It comes on as I coast or at stops, idles like crap, then as i accelerate it goes away. Any ideas or similar experiences??
Code 31
- Thread starter supramang
- Start date
simliar yes, not exact. mine would stall if i let it try to idle on its own coming out of gear. at one point it wouldnt even run, then after i got it to run again, i shut the hood kind of hard and the car shut off...cleaned the connector (pulled it a part completly) and solved the issue up to this point.
Did you guys test the ks signal to the ecu across the e2 (or e1, cant remember) circuit? mine reads 18hz at idle warmed up and should rise with more rpms. jj sais this is normal in the 15- 20hz range, and if you have a scope to watch the wave lengths im told you can get a very good idea how healthy the afm really is.
checked wires from ecu to afm connector?
checked to make sure there is in fact 5 volts at the afm connector per tsrm?
Did you guys test the ks signal to the ecu across the e2 (or e1, cant remember) circuit? mine reads 18hz at idle warmed up and should rise with more rpms. jj sais this is normal in the 15- 20hz range, and if you have a scope to watch the wave lengths im told you can get a very good idea how healthy the afm really is.
checked wires from ecu to afm connector?
checked to make sure there is in fact 5 volts at the afm connector per tsrm?
ok what is ks? and e2 and 1? sorry i dont know too much about wiring at this point but its about time i learned. 
Last edited:
supramang;1115931 said:ok what is ks? and e2 and 1? sorry i dont know too much about wiring at this point but its about time i learned.
ks is the actual karman signal back to the ecu that tells it how much air is being read (then the ecu decides how much fuel to add). E1 is the ground for the afm meter and VC is the intial 5v power suplly that gives the afm power to work with (totally dead with out it).
pull the afm conector and with the key in the on postion (car off) put your volt meter test leads on E1 and VC, should be a solid 5v or around there.
plug the connector back in and strip some wire insulation back on the KS and E1 wires. you need to be able to read HZ. put your test leads across the two exsposed wires and with the car running at idle it should be around 15-20hz. it will increase with rpm so a cold idle will read higher then a warm idle. (my multimeter reads khz, move the decimal 3 to the right and you have your hz reading)
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=96
what finally fixed mine, so far, was pulling all the wires out of the afm connector and spray the hell out of it with carb/brake cleaner. make sure to remove the oval rubber gasket that sits down in it though! and make sure to mark each wire in relation to where it goes on the connector as you pull them out. i pulled 4 out with out paying attention and got a few mixed around.
Ryan
we did this already
I am thinking it is the electronics and not the wiring. Try to source another AFM Electronics and see if it goes away (it more than likely will).
Remember, Knock sensor was bad. I wonder if the guy you bought it from did the AFM clean with carb cleaner heheh
we did this already
I am thinking it is the electronics and not the wiring. Try to source another AFM Electronics and see if it goes away (it more than likely will).
Remember, Knock sensor was bad. I wonder if the guy you bought it from did the AFM clean with carb cleaner
heheh
figgie;1116501 said:Ryan
we did this already
I am thinking it is the electronics and not the wiring. Try to source another AFM Electronics and see if it goes away (it more than likely will).
Remember, Knock sensor was bad. I wonder if the guy you bought it from did the AFM clean with carb cleaner
figgie i assumed you would have done all that testing to begin with given your rep. to the op, at least you have a small guide to test from in the future huh?:naughty:
if you go to a yard make sure to find one that is dry and clean. all though if you have figgie on your side up there, you shouldnt have any issues finding one that works...
grimreaper;1116605 said:
Ha ha yeah he's pretty much a supra jedi lol!! I was trying to search one out earlier this summer because I also thought that it couldve been the issue, but you just dont see these cars in junkyards up here so hopefully i can get my paws on one!!
the yards near me have more then a few in the lex cases. if needed i can pick one up and toss it on my car to make sure it works and then send it to you. last one i bout was $80 with the entire lex intake tract. lmk
grimreaper;1116839 said:
yeah ill keep that in mind. Im extremely short on money right now and the electronics have not acted up in probably almost a week now. Thanks alot though and i will let ya know!
supramang;1118141 said:
Ryan
here is another thing. The light.
Comes on agter the car has beenr an a while? Has it ever done it before it gets to temp?
You might want to look at an air block to the afm as the hot air is blowing directly on the AFM electronics. Might be temprature related.
^ whats this you speak off? cooking the afm? or possibly heating the casing enough to cause the temp sensor to read out of range?
Yeah the only time it does it is when im up to temp. Also the most common times are when its real hot and muggy out. This cool weather we have been having has been keeping my car running great!! Do you think any type of insulation wrap could be used kinda like the ones for the cold half of the turbo??
supramang;1120691 said:
You could.
A "cheap" experiment would be to use a carboard box cut to shape. The only problem is that the weather will probably not turn as hot as it was...
grimreaper;1116483 said:
Thanks for posting this. I have a code 31, and my AFM passes the resistance test per the TSRM; but it completely fails this test. My Hz reading was 4.05.
I'll try cleaning the AFM, but I suspect I'll be replacing that soon.
deabionni;1120865 said:
the AFM HOUSING and not the electronics right? There is no way to "clean" the AFM electronics. That is the sure fire way to kill the AFM electronics though!
If your in the area (St. Cloud) you can use/test with mine. It seems to work fine, no code31 at least, I have the dreaded 42 that we can't fix.
So I am going to wate tell after the snow melts to get it back out on the street.
So I am going to wate tell after the snow melts to get it back out on the street.
Sorry I ment 41, same issue as before in the thread you contributed to. My bad.:kickinthenuts:
figgie, you asking me if i swaped from my gte to ge? If so, no im still gte, i would sell the car befor i i would ever swap in a ge.
figgie, you asking me if i swaped from my gte to ge? If so, no im still gte, i would sell the car befor i i would ever swap in a ge.
92nsx;1121342 said:Sorry I ment 41, same issue as before in the thread you contributed to. My bad.:kickinthenuts:
figgie, you asking me if i swaped from my gte to ge? If so, no im still gte, i would sell the car befor i i would ever swap in a ge.
Ignore me.
I thought it was 41 but I saw 42 and thought you had NEW problems
LOL, nope same old, same old. Im hoping the stand alone will be able to take care of it, hint for this winters project.
Supramang, sorry for taking your thread off topic, but again if you are in the area fell free to contact me and you can use my afm
Supramang, sorry for taking your thread off topic, but again if you are in the area fell free to contact me and you can use my afm