...to answer your question, eventually I plan to use a gt35r with an .82 a/r turbine housing and PowerTrip Performance turbo manifold.
Clueless Turbo Build Up!!
- Thread starter Clueless
- Start date
T3 Garret is T3 only right? Is his turbo made specifically for T3? I really don't know the diff much between T3/T4.
$4,300 just seems a little high to build a 7M; it might just be the machine shop though. Not putting your machine shop down in any way, I'm sure they do excellent work. Also $325 for a "TRD" oil pump is very steep. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think there is such thing as a TRD oil pump for the 7M.
werewolves182;964341 said:
does anybody read my post? I didn't pay 4300 to have this motor built, it was already built by the guy I'm buying it off of....so I'm paying less the that for the motor.
Oh shit, my bad. I missed that post. Sorry about that. In that case your getting one hell of a deal. But either way, there is no such thing as a TRD oil pump.
OK, that guy got pwnt then. Deffinitely. That's ATLEAST 1j swap money...
How much is this engine going for again?
How much is this engine going for again?
"TRD" water pump also. Standard bore forged pistons which is also rare although i think wiseco does make standard bore size. If it has everything stated, and is in working order, then its a great deal. But...who spends that much money and then sells it AFTER running it for "225" miles? I understand a 'i ran out of funds and am deciding to part my motor before ive run it' deal but 225 miles and then parting with it is a bit suspect.
7MsuprO;964403 said:
I've wonder this as well, so I'm debating....if I remember correctly, he says he thought he blew a MHG because of coolant spray, so he went ahead and built another 7m to replace this(something to that effect). He just recently went ahead and had his builder check over the engine and did a compression test and leak down...compression for all cylinders were in the 179-185 category and the cause of the coolant leak was a gasket I think for the thermostat housing. So he has two built motor and only needs one(just married and buying a house) so he needs to get rid of one. So I can either hae pat build me one to stock internals or buy this one with forged(hopefully) for the same price....any thoughts?
Idk man, is the guy on the forums? I've been burned buying an already built motor before...turned out to be stock motor with stock headbolts and composite head gasket. I would just be careful and see how well you can judge the guys character...although thats neither here nor there. In reality i could've checked for those things but didnt because i thought i could trust the seller at the time.
Im not an expert by any means but I would:
1. Take a knowledgeable friend with you.
2. Ask him if you can have him put the engine on a stand by the time you get there.
Then ask if you can:
1. Take off the oil pan. I think this motor has stock rods? Either way, you'll be able to see ARP rod bolts and other supposed hardware, and the bottom side of the pistons which'll tell you what they are. Turn the rotating assembly and make sure it turns freely/ visually inspect and listen for metal to metal contact where there shouldn't be.. I guess check clearances if you can...
Also check for metallic in the pan which is obviously bad.
2. Pull the valve covers and look for ARP head studs obviously...they have "ARP" imprinted in them and look nothing like stock head bolts. HKS metal head gasket also has tabs sticking out on the intake manifold side IIRC so you'll be able to tell if the HKS MHG is what is in there.
3. Look at all possible seals and see how they look although ill say: the motor does look rebuilt. Its more a concern of if theres anything wrong with it.
4. Take off the front "7MGTE" timing cover and check out the timing belt for abnormal wear. See what the spark plugs look like.
Sounds like you're being a picky bitch when you show up and ask for all this but if he's truthful and honest, he has nothing to hide. If everything checks out, float him an extra $20 or something for his compliance and nothing you took off is hard to replace. Btw, this isn't fail safe but it would help a lot. HTH.
Oh and btw...his coolant spray excuse for thinking he had a BHG is BS. Either hes an idiot or trying to play you because a BHG isnt gonna spray coolant into the engine compartment. Think about what the head is torqued down to...even if its under torqued.
Im not an expert by any means but I would:
1. Take a knowledgeable friend with you.
2. Ask him if you can have him put the engine on a stand by the time you get there.
Then ask if you can:
1. Take off the oil pan. I think this motor has stock rods? Either way, you'll be able to see ARP rod bolts and other supposed hardware, and the bottom side of the pistons which'll tell you what they are. Turn the rotating assembly and make sure it turns freely/ visually inspect and listen for metal to metal contact where there shouldn't be.. I guess check clearances if you can...
Also check for metallic in the pan which is obviously bad.
2. Pull the valve covers and look for ARP head studs obviously...they have "ARP" imprinted in them and look nothing like stock head bolts. HKS metal head gasket also has tabs sticking out on the intake manifold side IIRC so you'll be able to tell if the HKS MHG is what is in there.
3. Look at all possible seals and see how they look although ill say: the motor does look rebuilt. Its more a concern of if theres anything wrong with it.
4. Take off the front "7MGTE" timing cover and check out the timing belt for abnormal wear. See what the spark plugs look like.
Sounds like you're being a picky bitch when you show up and ask for all this but if he's truthful and honest, he has nothing to hide. If everything checks out, float him an extra $20 or something for his compliance and nothing you took off is hard to replace. Btw, this isn't fail safe but it would help a lot. HTH.
Oh and btw...his coolant spray excuse for thinking he had a BHG is BS. Either hes an idiot or trying to play you because a BHG isnt gonna spray coolant into the engine compartment. Think about what the head is torqued down to...even if its under torqued.
7MsuprO;964438 said:
Not to mention there would be bloodspray all overt the engine bay from putting the builders head into the cooling fan for not covering a $5k engine for 300miles and having to build another.
If the guy wont have it on a stand when you get there, for any reason at all., don't do it. I drove 4 hours round trip to get the guy I sold my engine to a video of the car running, taking 10 mins to put the engine on a stand is nothing.
On a stand but can't take the oil pan off, same thing. That's a dead give away. Wiggle the rods, see if it spun a bearing, try turning some of the nuts/bolts... and get a good look at the cyclinders and the 'newness' of the parts.
My opinion, find another engine... I got ATLEAST 40k miles out of my 6m and sold it for damn near what I had in it... No way I would EVER build an engine and sell if for half of what I paid for it. Buying a house, getting married, $1800 will not put a dent into the money he is about to fork out.
