Thanks! lol yea the 7mgte is pissin me off so ive stoped modding it and started my jz fundBlackMKIII said:
Cheap Performance?
- Thread starter mattman
- Start date
Best advice if you don't have money and its NA. Just enjoy the car for what it is. Keep it clean and stock for now. That will get you more respect than shitty mods.
if you notice, there are a few guys with 1000+ posts, and a lot of guys with less than 100 posts. i believe that the 100-1000 posts is the trial by fire. if you keep your car for that length of time, chances are you'll be a lifer. when you mess with an almost 20 year old car, crap happens. lots of guys jump ship right before there cars are getting good. i know cause ive thought of selling my car on multiple occations. then i drive it again and i promise myself ill never sell my car. if you decide to keep your car, here's what i would do in your position.
save money, and keep it stock (reliable). don't waste money on a 7mge
get a solid 7mgTe, or go for a jz series engine. if i had an na, i would probably go 1.5jz (1jz head, and 2jz block).
whatever happens, hang in there and use the search button
save money, and keep it stock (reliable). don't waste money on a 7mge
get a solid 7mgTe, or go for a jz series engine. if i had an na, i would probably go 1.5jz (1jz head, and 2jz block).
whatever happens, hang in there and use the search button
my car would have been GONE if my fiance would have let me sell it...
she's helped me a lot and I'll say the 3 things you'll need to work on a supra is...
The right tools
The right parts
The right info
Tools, instead of fighting with something, I bet there is a better way. I have bought so many tools it's not even funny.
Floor jack, bottle jack, jackstands, engine lift, engine stand, tranny jack, torque wrenches, line wrenches, line pliers, lock ring pliers, snap ring pliers, gearwrench set, socket and ratchet set, deep sockets, TONS of extensions (dropping the tranny takes a good 3' of them).
The right parts. If it doesn't look like the right part from a parts store, I go to the dealer. Find a dealer that won't rip you off. Having part numbers (can get em here, or from the online EPC) make their job a HELL of a lot easier, and it stops them from screwing up.
The right info. DO NOT rely on a shitty haynes manual. the TSRM is your bible. You can either use the online version or buy one.
she's helped me a lot and I'll say the 3 things you'll need to work on a supra is...
The right tools
The right parts
The right info
Tools, instead of fighting with something, I bet there is a better way. I have bought so many tools it's not even funny.
Floor jack, bottle jack, jackstands, engine lift, engine stand, tranny jack, torque wrenches, line wrenches, line pliers, lock ring pliers, snap ring pliers, gearwrench set, socket and ratchet set, deep sockets, TONS of extensions (dropping the tranny takes a good 3' of them).
The right parts. If it doesn't look like the right part from a parts store, I go to the dealer. Find a dealer that won't rip you off. Having part numbers (can get em here, or from the online EPC) make their job a HELL of a lot easier, and it stops them from screwing up.
The right info. DO NOT rely on a shitty haynes manual. the TSRM is your bible. You can either use the online version or buy one.
im with everyone else man. although i started out with a 7mgte, i had to hold myself back once i did a few mods. thats when i started saving for my 2jz swap. it has been a long time (well over a year) of gathering parts and knowledge of how to do everything. however, i feel my time waiting and doing it right will pay off big time!
granted, i will say these cars ARE pretty cheap compared to some alternatives (like DSM's, 300Z's...)
drivetrain is stout (unlike DSM's), and you don't need 2 of everything (300Z's)
Make it this way, with what I keep throwing at this car, I could have a very nice clean MKIV TT....
drivetrain is stout (unlike DSM's), and you don't need 2 of everything (300Z's)
Make it this way, with what I keep throwing at this car, I could have a very nice clean MKIV TT....
A stock n/a is fun to drive around. Hell, I had mine for over 24 hours before I picked up a turbo supra for my ongoing projects.
I sure had a fun 50 some miles after I bought that n/a. :biglaugh:
Money? Save it up until "it's turbo time."
I sure had a fun 50 some miles after I bought that n/a. :biglaugh:
Money? Save it up until "it's turbo time."
Yea, Piss Off dissin my car, Ill mod the crap outa it with crap that shouldnt work. It runs better now than when you had so apparently Im doin somethin right. Didnt you say the fastest you could get the na to do was 110?? Not no more.ms07s said:
Stop crushing this kids hopes dammit. I will tell you mods you can do to your 7M-GE that have been performed by my buddy who has one quick friggin 7M-GE Cressida.. QUICK!!
This is what he did. He works for Toyota and the guy that does engine work to the NASCAR/NASTRUCK Toyota motors did his motor work:
Port & Polish head
5angle valve grind + lap
overbore .040"
blueprint balance your bottom end (piston + rings + bearings), flywheel and crank
add 550cc injectors + AFPR
free flowing intake
6-3-1 headers with straight exhaust (his sounds like a F-1 Racing car)
last but not least, a friggin MHG!
I garuntee you with the above mods, your 7M-GE will embarrass some 7M-GTEs
But the above mods would cost you a fortune
This is what he did. He works for Toyota and the guy that does engine work to the NASCAR/NASTRUCK Toyota motors did his motor work:
Port & Polish head
5angle valve grind + lap
overbore .040"
blueprint balance your bottom end (piston + rings + bearings), flywheel and crank
add 550cc injectors + AFPR
free flowing intake
6-3-1 headers with straight exhaust (his sounds like a F-1 Racing car)
last but not least, a friggin MHG!
I garuntee you with the above mods, your 7M-GE will embarrass some 7M-GTEs
But the above mods would cost you a fortune
upgrading an N/A should consist of maintaining it well, and getting things that will cross over...
suspension, wheels, brakes, exhaust, cooling, interior restoration, ect ect...
The most I'd put into an N/A is like I said maintaining it and probably a better air filter, though the stock airbox really isn't that restrictive. Exhaust will pass over to a turbo motor...
You could put thousands and THOUSANDS into an N/A and still be slower than a stock turbo with a shimmed wastegate. Not hating on them that much (as they still are great cars, and will beat up on most cars), but it's kinda futile to dump money into it as the turbo motor is the best route to more power. This is one area that the cheap, fast, reliable can all be had in going to a turbo setup...
suspension, wheels, brakes, exhaust, cooling, interior restoration, ect ect...
The most I'd put into an N/A is like I said maintaining it and probably a better air filter, though the stock airbox really isn't that restrictive. Exhaust will pass over to a turbo motor...
You could put thousands and THOUSANDS into an N/A and still be slower than a stock turbo with a shimmed wastegate. Not hating on them that much (as they still are great cars, and will beat up on most cars), but it's kinda futile to dump money into it as the turbo motor is the best route to more power. This is one area that the cheap, fast, reliable can all be had in going to a turbo setup...
Not dissing the N\A just saying turbo = easy power. Never had the ballz to go any faster in that car as it was a bit unstable. And I made that car 1000 times better than the shape I got it in so pissoff! A new motor helps your case! You know the only things I did to that car were suspension exhaust bumper jdm tails and such. As far as NA performance I would like to see a itb supra! It would be loud as hell. But he is looking for CHEAP power which we all know dosen't really exist. Remember cheap up front means it will be expensive as hell later. BHG, window in block, detonation....need I say more?:runaway:soundwave2000 said:
Ma70.Ent said:
SIP stroker kit with some 11:1 compression pistons, 440s, a piggyback and a MSD ignition would be a great route for someone not wanting to go turbo
(I was thinking STRONGLY on this before going 1j)I agree. I have a NA, close to the same mods, with a few thousand in it, last time dynoed 215hp, 207 tq, now to dyno with latest mods, Maft-Pro w/SD, 550's, once I get the Maft tuned probably another +20-25. I could have put more into switching to turbo.foreverpsycotic said:SIP stroker kit with some 11:1 compression pistons, 440s, a piggyback and a MSD ignition would be a great route for someone not wanting to go turbo
IMO there's nothing "cheap" about modding the supra if you're going to do it right.
First, ask yourself if you intend to invest $$$ thousands into your car? I'd be willing to bet based on my own (and others) experience that any guy on SM with a properly modded supra built for higher "reliable" HP (400+) has invested over $4,000 in it.
Second, make sure you have a job that can support your addiction to supras.
Third, get a daily driver...you WILL need it to get to that good job when something on the supra breaks...and it will.
You should be able to get a JDM 7mgte for about $1k...mine was less than that shipped from Soko.com. Add ARP hardware and a properly installed MHG torqued to 85lbs and you have reliability!
New hoses, intake, exhaust, DP, High Flow Cat - Another $1k
New brakes all around - under $1k
Bigger turbo, IC, pipes - well over $1k
Injectors, Walbro, Maft-pro or similar, oil cooler (recommended), etc - another $1k +++
Everything that breaks along the way + $$$
Blowing the doors off ricers, many V-8's, and hitting 135+ MPH on an open highway...priceless! :biglaugh:
First, ask yourself if you intend to invest $$$ thousands into your car? I'd be willing to bet based on my own (and others) experience that any guy on SM with a properly modded supra built for higher "reliable" HP (400+) has invested over $4,000 in it.
Second, make sure you have a job that can support your addiction to supras.
Third, get a daily driver...you WILL need it to get to that good job when something on the supra breaks...and it will.
You should be able to get a JDM 7mgte for about $1k...mine was less than that shipped from Soko.com. Add ARP hardware and a properly installed MHG torqued to 85lbs and you have reliability!
New hoses, intake, exhaust, DP, High Flow Cat - Another $1k
New brakes all around - under $1k
Bigger turbo, IC, pipes - well over $1k
Injectors, Walbro, Maft-pro or similar, oil cooler (recommended), etc - another $1k +++
Everything that breaks along the way + $$$
Blowing the doors off ricers, many V-8's, and hitting 135+ MPH on an open highway...priceless! :biglaugh:
who the fuck needs 550's and an afpr on a GE? youd be hard pressed to put down 500rwhp on a non-turbo 7M... the 550's are pointless. and the fact that you have to dial down the fuel pressure so much to get them to flow like stock under idle and cruise conditions would turn the spray patteren into a drizzle and result in a lot of fuel drop-out.
the NA is pointless... especially when there is an indentically swappable turbo variant.
with all that work, you guys arent even where a STOCK GTE motor is... wheres your torque?
and "Fast" is a quick word... got an power numbers and quarter mile times/traps to back up that statement for the cressida? im willing to bet its barely in the 14's, IF that.
the NA is pointless... especially when there is an indentically swappable turbo variant.
with all that work, you guys arent even where a STOCK GTE motor is... wheres your torque?
and "Fast" is a quick word... got an power numbers and quarter mile times/traps to back up that statement for the cressida? im willing to bet its barely in the 14's, IF that.