Quick question, what is the purpose of this charcoal canister, and is there a way I can do with out? Or maybe put something more atractive in that spot. Im trying to find ways to clean up this engine bay any tips let me know...
Charcoal Canister/ Engine Bay cleanup...
- Thread starter applesauce
- Start date
Catches gas vapors from the fuel tank and also keeps the fuel tank under a little pressure i believe. Mostly for emissions purposes and if you have emissions and remove this can, you will most likely not pass.
But if you want to ditch it, remove it and cap off the vac line at the TB, run a piece of hose from the line comming from the fuel tank(that went into the can) down into your fender well. There is a little black grommet that a piece of hose will fit perfectly into that gose under the car. The purpose of that is to keep gas vapor out of your engine bay.
But if you want to ditch it, remove it and cap off the vac line at the TB, run a piece of hose from the line comming from the fuel tank(that went into the can) down into your fender well. There is a little black grommet that a piece of hose will fit perfectly into that gose under the car. The purpose of that is to keep gas vapor out of your engine bay.
More attractive like what? A statue of Buddha? The EVAP cannister is there to adsorb tank fuel vapor so it doesn't go out into the environment. If you remove it (a pox on you) be sure to vent the tank somehow and cap off the port on the throttle body.
Unrelated but both the guys in your avatar are friends of mine. At least Les is. Last I heard his kid is driving ShockWave these days...
Unrelated but both the guys in your avatar are friends of mine. At least Les is. Last I heard his kid is driving ShockWave these days...
jetjock;924924 said:
Hehe
I stripped and painted my CC as well as the bracket, looks pretty sharp now, I guess I don't see at as an eyesore like some guys do...
I've heard of people getting a CC from a different car, i think it's from a MK4 possibly? Can't remember, but it's a smaller canister that apparently you can hide in the wheel well. This is just a fuzzy memory from surfing the forums though :biglaugh:
You could also get a Supra JDM cannister and mount in the passenger wheel well. That will get it out of the bay and the system still function as intended...win-win.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Thanks everyone those are great ideas. I think im going to cap it off. Do to the fact that I don't really have true emission test. Thanks
jetjock: I go see shockwave everytime it comes to VA for an airshow. How cool is it to drive a truck with 3 jet engines pushing it down a track...
jetjock: I go see shockwave everytime it comes to VA for an airshow. How cool is it to drive a truck with 3 jet engines pushing it down a track...
Last edited:
You're missing the point *sigh*
It regulates the pressure in the tank, that in turn can regulate fuel flow.
It regulates the pressure in the tank, that in turn can regulate fuel flow.
There's a 2 psi valve in it that keeps the tank at that pressure. The manuals say it's there to prevent fuel pump cavitation.
Well duh. The evaporative control system has nothing to do with tailpipe emissions...
rs4rush;924955 said:
Well duh. The evaporative control system has nothing to do with tailpipe emissions...
I have a similar question...when I got my car, the 1JZ swap was already done, with the CC in place, and the line 'to tank' still attached, with the 'purge' line venting to the atmosphere.
Is this legit/safe? I don't smell fuel under the hood, and was wondering if my CC was doing its job or not...
Is this legit/safe? I don't smell fuel under the hood, and was wondering if my CC was doing its job or not...
so, just to Clear things up you are saying it is indeed Bad to not have the CC hooked up ? or it wont matter..
I am at the end of a rebuild myself. I tried taking off the canister to clean up the engine bay too. I removed the canister, and I put a cap on the end of the line. The engine ran just fine. Only problem came the next day. For one, when I remove the gas cap to fill the tank, the escaping pressure was WAY more than normal. Plus, the pressure ended up shooting the line cap off like a little bullet. I was working under the hood with the engine running, and the thing suddenly shot right at me. Good thing it was a rubber cap. :icon_bigg
Long story short, the extra looks aren't worth the tank pressure. I don't know if it would hurt anything, but I'm not taking any chances. If I end up hating the canister bad enough, I'll figure something out. But that much tank pressure can't be good...
Long story short, the extra looks aren't worth the tank pressure. I don't know if it would hurt anything, but I'm not taking any chances. If I end up hating the canister bad enough, I'll figure something out. But that much tank pressure can't be good...
Last edited:
It's not just excess tank pressure. It can also be vacuum. Great example is the F-body that lost on Pinks. Car Craft got ahold of it anc acouldn't figure out why it was so damn slow for it's mods when everything checked out right.
They took the gas cap off and dropped their 1/4 by 2 seconds (not exagerating). It was going lean and thankfully the engine was stout as hell. Do that with boost and say good by to your pistons...
They took the gas cap off and dropped their 1/4 by 2 seconds (not exagerating). It was going lean and thankfully the engine was stout as hell. Do that with boost and say good by to your pistons...
Wow...I didn't realize excessive pressure was really a problem...The gas cap on my supra is always under a TON of pressure when it is hot out and i've been driving for a while...like the gas cap will FLY off if I unscrew it too fast. When fueling up, I usually just unscrew it slightly and wait until the hissing stops...usually after about 30 seconds. One guy at a gas station even commented about the noise LOL.
I have a feeling a vent line is clogged.
I have a feeling a vent line is clogged.
Only # 26?
It's simple. The stock fuel system is sealed to prevent evaporated hydrocarbons from leaking out. That means two problems must be dealt with:
1) As fuel is drawn out of the tank air must come in to prevent fuel starvation and keep the atmosphere from crushing the tank. That air enters through a check valve in the gas cap.
2) Pressure in the tank will build from fuel vaporization caused by ambient heat and hot fuel being returned from the engine. That vapor is routed to the charcoal cannister where it's adsorbed to be later burned in the engine. The cannister has a valve that blocks this flow until tank pressure is 2 psi or greater.
Finally, for those in California pressure testing of the EVAP system up to but not including the cannister is now required on the smog test, beginning this year.
It's simple. The stock fuel system is sealed to prevent evaporated hydrocarbons from leaking out. That means two problems must be dealt with:
1) As fuel is drawn out of the tank air must come in to prevent fuel starvation and keep the atmosphere from crushing the tank. That air enters through a check valve in the gas cap.
2) Pressure in the tank will build from fuel vaporization caused by ambient heat and hot fuel being returned from the engine. That vapor is routed to the charcoal cannister where it's adsorbed to be later burned in the engine. The cannister has a valve that blocks this flow until tank pressure is 2 psi or greater.
Finally, for those in California pressure testing of the EVAP system up to but not including the cannister is now required on the smog test, beginning this year.