my car will not start in the freezing temperatures out here and i cant figure it out. plenty of fluids and no condensation on distruibutor cap or anything like that... just cos its cold it wont start. any suggestions?
car wont start in freezing temps ONLY
- Thread starter PimpiNJ253
- Start date
Could be something wrong with the cold start injector or the water temp sensor isnt giving a good reading and telling the ecu that the car is already warm when you try to start it.
Btw where in Kent are you? Im in Maple Valley...
Btw where in Kent are you? Im in Maple Valley...
If it takes multiple attempts to finally get her started in cold temps. then my first guess would be it is your cold start injector (CSI). Or is she not starting AT ALL? U mentioned "distributor cap", I imagine you have a 7MGE, and I'm not sure if distributors, rotors, etc.. are affected by the cold. From my reading on this and other sites, if a Supra takes forever to start in cold temps, chances are its the CSI. I would remove and clean the CSI. Ck. the Fuel Injection System in the online TSRM. good luck!
ok so here are my answers
1. Not movin to cali
2. Don't have a code reader, don't think anything is wrong with cps.
3. I live right at the top of east hill (256th/smith/kent kangly)
4. I have a 7MGTE and I said the distributor cap wasnt moist because thats what my dad thought at first. The car wont start at all, pretty much starts in NON freezing temps only. A while ago when it froze it wouldnt start till the sun was on it for a while. Then we had record rain which warmed temps up and i had no problems starting it up. here it froze again and I couldnt get it started and now it snowed about 5 inches last night!!!!
That cold start injector sounds like it could be right because it will turn over just fine but wont catch. When the car IS going to start the tach wiggles while its turning over and then jumps up and she starts. When the car is NOT going to start at all but will turn over, the tach doesn't move at all.
thanks in advanve for your help guys. :icon_bigg
1. Not movin to cali
2. Don't have a code reader, don't think anything is wrong with cps.
3. I live right at the top of east hill (256th/smith/kent kangly)
4. I have a 7MGTE and I said the distributor cap wasnt moist because thats what my dad thought at first. The car wont start at all, pretty much starts in NON freezing temps only. A while ago when it froze it wouldnt start till the sun was on it for a while. Then we had record rain which warmed temps up and i had no problems starting it up. here it froze again and I couldnt get it started and now it snowed about 5 inches last night!!!!
That cold start injector sounds like it could be right because it will turn over just fine but wont catch. When the car IS going to start the tach wiggles while its turning over and then jumps up and she starts. When the car is NOT going to start at all but will turn over, the tach doesn't move at all.
thanks in advanve for your help guys. :icon_bigg
Tach doesn't move while cranking? Sounds like CPS.
You don't need a "code reader" to check codes, all you need is a paper clip. Codes are the only way the car can tell you what's wrong with it...just count the blinks of the check engine light, here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx
You don't need a "code reader" to check codes, all you need is a paper clip. Codes are the only way the car can tell you what's wrong with it...just count the blinks of the check engine light, here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx
well i can say for one if you have a 7M-GTE there is not Distributor cap to speak of?
You dont Need a Code Reader to read the codes from yuor ECU. If you look at the online TSRM you well see that all you need is a small peice of wire or even a paper clip, to find out if your ECU is throwing ay codes.
someone chime in with a link please i have a book so i forget what the link is
If you are not throwing any codes. Then try cleaning the CSI. It could just posibly be that you have Water Icing up in your Fuel lines, add some Gas Line antifreeze. I have driven my Supra and started it in -30C Weather just fine so i know the car will start no problem.
Not that this would stop your car from starting but could hinder it a bit. What grade oil are you using right now for the cold weather?
You dont Need a Code Reader to read the codes from yuor ECU. If you look at the online TSRM you well see that all you need is a small peice of wire or even a paper clip, to find out if your ECU is throwing ay codes.
someone chime in with a link please i have a book so i forget what the link is
If you are not throwing any codes. Then try cleaning the CSI. It could just posibly be that you have Water Icing up in your Fuel lines, add some Gas Line antifreeze. I have driven my Supra and started it in -30C Weather just fine so i know the car will start no problem.
Not that this would stop your car from starting but could hinder it a bit. What grade oil are you using right now for the cold weather?
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
it's temp. sensor on the thermostat housing 
i had that problem a week ago. Try to change it, it should cost 2-3usd
i had that problem a week ago. Try to change it, it should cost 2-3usd 
Yup, my cps wires are loose in the connector, and it wont start for crap when its cold. I guess the connector heats up from the engine heat or warmer air and makes better contact. Im replacing my connector with some kind of audio or RC car connector. Also, my CPS wasnt adjusted right and that also made it very hard to start, but no matter what temp it is.
also if the tach doesnt move when your cranking it thats a dead giveaway of bad CPS or bad cps connection
Ummm...the tach gets its signal from the igniter after the ECU gets the NE and at least one of the G1 or G2 signals from the CPS. The tach won't move until the ECU sends the IGt signal to the ignitor and the coil packs fire. The signal to the tach is based on the IGt signal...that happens well after the CPS input to the ECU. The tach not moving could be several things...not necessarily the CPS.
jdub said:
I understand that..I am just thinking that the CPS wiring (mainly the connector) is such a common failure point, that he should check it first...
I'm not saying the CPS couldn't be the cause...the tach doesn't move until your getting the full sequence of ignition signals. The CPS is only one part...the tach not moving doesn't necessarily mean it's the CPS. The ECU does not allow the injectors to fire until an IGf signal (ignition confirmation) is received from the ignitor...this will generate a code 14.
Plus, it only happens when very cold...1st thing I would check is the CSI time switch
Plus, it only happens when very cold...1st thing I would check is the CSI time switch
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johnathan1 said:
well i tried this method but,
1.I had a grease in the little holes???
2.Did not work because i need to start car in order to see flashing light?
The grease is normal...it's dielectric grease to prevent the terminals from corroding IIRC...The key has to be in the "ON" position to see the flashing check engine light
ok so i could NOT find the CPS, CSI, and could not get the car to show me any codes. this is frusterating!!!! I may just have to get a different car because i REALLY need a car to get to get to school and work and what not. I would hate to have to get rid of her because I LOVE THIS CAR!!! BUT HATE ITS PROBLEMS!!!!!
Cps is the black round thing on the side of the turbo side of the head.
CSI is on the bottom of the intake manifold.
CSI time switch is the top sensor on the water neck... i think its brownish...
CSI is on the bottom of the intake manifold.
CSI time switch is the top sensor on the water neck... i think its brownish...
Haha, you think those problems are bad?? You should see the shit i've been through with my car, at LEAST 50x worse. Hang in there, this is basic stuff.