Car not starting randomly? READ THIS (30 Amp Starter Relay Mod)
- Thread starter Idealsupra
- Start date
Satan;2022422 said:
Satan;2022491 said:
Please do, move on. Because your colorful language is not admirable and, as you say, you have contributed "No new beneficial info.."
supranewbie;2022584 said:
Yep. The fastest typing retard you have ever seen!
Are you a cross-dresser?
I'm a little late to the party but I had an idea:
I'll do the 30 amp relay mod, then I'll add another relay to turn THAT relay on. Then another relay to turn THAT one on.
Then I'll post some pictures and recommend everyone follow suit, and take comfort in knowing I have caused my fellow forum members at least a dozen brain aneurysms. :biglaugh:
I'll do the 30 amp relay mod, then I'll add another relay to turn THAT relay on. Then another relay to turn THAT one on.
Then I'll post some pictures and recommend everyone follow suit, and take comfort in knowing I have caused my fellow forum members at least a dozen brain aneurysms. :biglaugh:
^^Thanks for your technical contributions. A post, to talk about another post, in a thread you were not already a part of. Smart. We need your superiority here! Welcome to the new Supraforums Off Topic section.
I just "brought a friend" to the thread, to show him the "stock" circuit and normal-troubleshooting method (not what I did), since he is having starting issues. I've copied out the entire thread, so that he can have it to reference and not have to join this circus/forum. Thanks again!
I just "brought a friend" to the thread, to show him the "stock" circuit and normal-troubleshooting method (not what I did), since he is having starting issues. I've copied out the entire thread, so that he can have it to reference and not have to join this circus/forum. Thanks again!
Maybe this will add some value, who knows... top problem areas:
1) Starter motor itself (bad copper contacts in starter solenoid)
2) Ignition switch
3) Pax side kick panel starter relay
4) NSW switch (A/T only)
5) bad clutch interlock switch (MT only)
6) mangled/damaged/loose starter wire connector at starter.
Use voltage drop test to troubleshoot 2-4.
1) Starter motor itself (bad copper contacts in starter solenoid)
2) Ignition switch
3) Pax side kick panel starter relay
4) NSW switch (A/T only)
5) bad clutch interlock switch (MT only)
6) mangled/damaged/loose starter wire connector at starter.
Use voltage drop test to troubleshoot 2-4.
Satan: Sorry guy, was just an attempt at comic relief --I wasn't really trying to insult you or anyone else. I definitely don't think I'm superior. I'm a hobbyist who embarrasses myself all the time, like when I advised someone on here to buy the wrong type of motor mount. 
My post was as much to poke fun at people getting upset at this mod as anyone doing it. That someone figured out a relatively simple way to get their cars to start reliably is of value, even if it's not ideal, IMHO. Many people out there can't even be bothered to go to get oil changes regularly, let alone troubleshoot electrical problems on their own. Most on this forum are relative geniuses compared to drivers in general.
That said, even when people are jerks about it, some of them provide a lot of knowledge at no cost to us. Someone occasionally berating me on a forum for being wrong or just not fully understanding something or even just rubbing them the wrong way is not that big a price to pay for access to the expertise here.
Sorry to post more off-topic crap, but I felt it was a *little* on-topic given the argument in this thread.
My post was as much to poke fun at people getting upset at this mod as anyone doing it. That someone figured out a relatively simple way to get their cars to start reliably is of value, even if it's not ideal, IMHO. Many people out there can't even be bothered to go to get oil changes regularly, let alone troubleshoot electrical problems on their own. Most on this forum are relative geniuses compared to drivers in general.
That said, even when people are jerks about it, some of them provide a lot of knowledge at no cost to us. Someone occasionally berating me on a forum for being wrong or just not fully understanding something or even just rubbing them the wrong way is not that big a price to pay for access to the expertise here.
Sorry to post more off-topic crap, but I felt it was a *little* on-topic given the argument in this thread.
This thread is just too epic to be allowed to die.
Lately my 89 Mk3 ChumpCar has been showing the symptoms of intermittent starter solenoid failure. Since one of my drivers was over this weekend, we decided to investigate. Removing the starter from the engine was a major PIA. I can only imagine how much harder putting it back in is going to be. Once we got the POS out, we disassembled the solenoid, and one of the contacts is about 90% worn away. The other contact and the center piece that actually moves show only mild wear and oxidation. I ordered a new contact. If they show up I will replace it and spend a couple of hours trying to get that darn starter back in. If the piece is NLA, I will have to make one out of copper plate.
Lately my 89 Mk3 ChumpCar has been showing the symptoms of intermittent starter solenoid failure. Since one of my drivers was over this weekend, we decided to investigate. Removing the starter from the engine was a major PIA. I can only imagine how much harder putting it back in is going to be. Once we got the POS out, we disassembled the solenoid, and one of the contacts is about 90% worn away. The other contact and the center piece that actually moves show only mild wear and oxidation. I ordered a new contact. If they show up I will replace it and spend a couple of hours trying to get that darn starter back in. If the piece is NLA, I will have to make one out of copper plate.
Attachments
Got 2 new solenoid contacts online delivered for about $32. 15 minutes to reassemble and then 1 hour to get the darn starter back on by myself.But it works.
Congrats. In my experience, the simplest way to get the starter on is to remove the alternator and run a 3foot extension from the front of the engine to the starter bolts. Also,for 91/92 the starter is threaded, so that is another way to simplify the install.
3p141592654;2043736 said:
Didn't think about removing the alternator. The hardest part for me was pushing the starter up from the bottom through the maze of hoses and wires and getting it located. Removing the clutch slave cylinder helped a bit but the fuel lines were the biggest hindrance.
I need to check voltage at the starter when cranking. I've replaced just about everything, as I thought it was a starter switch issue at first. Cleaned the starter switch.. Cured it for awhile.. Now I've replaced the starter switch.. Still does a weird click.. crank thing. Replaced the connector at the starter, and it helped. A little less of a click before the crank. But it still worries me. If the voltage at the starter is less than a half a volt less or so than battery voltage ill probably replace those contacts.
This thread has gone on for too long. I too am having these issues, but I refuse to do the extra relay. After searching through the internet for a while, I found a "how to" courtesy of Toyota to step by step diagnose the starting system. I will share it with you all. Its helping me find my real issue.
View attachment h7.pdf
View attachment h7.pdf
For me it actually did end up being the switch. Didn't realise that even though there's a starter relay, all current goes through the starter switch. I figured it just tripped the relay. So silly me, I wired in a cheapo switch with whatever size of wire I could find. Didn't work too well. Replaced it with a high current switch (20 amps at 120v) and proper 10 gauge wire (iirc) and no more issues. Had 30-40 starts yesterday at the autocross (didn't wanna heat soak sitting in line) and absolutely ZERO issues.