Boosted Supra;1099877 said:
Ok, I know I'm probably late with this but, I ran mine differently.
From Starter to remote momentary switch
From momentary switch to pos (+) battery
Works everytime, only problem is that the car will still crank even though the key is not in the ignition, but it will not start. Solution is finding a power source only when key is turned to "ON". This is easy but I've been so lazy nowadays. I've had starter problems since 2001, been wired this way since and no problems whatsoever.
I took a headlight washer switch out of an 87/88 and wired it to a relay. 85 and 86 go to ground and
ignition. This way the button will only engage my starter when the key is in the ignition position.
JetJock. What do you suggest as far as diagnosing the true problem. As I said in my prior post, I have a hard time believing that the wire is just old. ESPECIALLY since I have a brand frickin new wiring harness.
I tested voltage at the starter when it will just click and I get 12 volts. Honestly, I don't know what else to test. I've gone through and fixed everything ( I wish ) the P.O. fucked up.
(S)he had an aftermarket alarm poorly installed using butt connectors. All the ignition wires were green and corroded and nasty. I replaced the lock cylinder, and the ignition harness that bolts to the back of the lock cylinder.
I have tested the starter relay in the pass. kick panel. When I pulled it out I found someone had written BAD in big red letters on the relay and had permanently connected 87 and 30 (Assuming the toyota relay uses the same nomenclature as Bosch relays).
I have bypassed my clutch switch for three reasons. MY factory alarm is still functional, however it never gets armed due to my superior aftermarket alarm.
I am out of places to turn. I would really rather fix this problem the correct way than use my little setup to start when my car won't, but unless someone can provide another place to turn, I am out of ideas.
I thought about running a new wire from my ignition switch to where the body harness and ECU harness join behind the glove box, but in essence, its doing the same thing and bypassing the original problem, not solving it.