Moderator edit: Please read the entire thread. The circuit already has a relay that is easy to diagnose and fix.-Poodles
I figured I would post a little public service announcement to hopefully help some people and save them the aggravation of trying to replace a starter multiple times and not fixing the problem.
My car had been randomly "not cranking" over the past few weeks. It was getting worse and left me stranded numerous times. Although it is a manual so I was normally able to recruit some guys to give me a push for me to pop it and be on my way.
Of course the normal response around here is the starter contacts are worn/bad. Sure this MIGHT be the case, however I would bet more often its something a LOT simpler to deal with and correct.
There ARE random threads on this site and others that have this in them and they are great tool. I figured maybe one more isnt a bad thing as there are more "Help my car isnt starting randomly" threads then I could sift through.
Ok so enough rambling. Here you go. If you are having problems with your car not cranking (yet youre hearing a click at the starter relay, and a "thicker" click at the starter area), then try this. DO THE 30AMP RELAY MOD. SERIOUSLY.
Basically, the old wiring and the setup of the stock starting circuit causes the voltage getting to the starter simply not enough at times. (Thanks IJ) The stock wire from the IGN side to the starter energizes the bendix and it's copper contacts and ring complete the motor circuit.
What happens though is not enough current to hold these contacts causes arcing so it just gets worse and worse.
To correct this (and basically enhance your starting circuit along the way), simply go to Advance Auto Parts and get the following:
DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
Now find a place to mount the relay. I put mine down by the starter almost right off the framerail. I used one of the 10mm bolts that holds on one of the little shields.
Now take the wire and connectors and make:
Connect (A) to the input side of the switch on the relay.
Connect (B) to the open side of the switch on the relay and the other side of (B) to the starter terminal (brown clip).
Connect (C) to either side of the coil on the relay and ground other side of (C) to the body.
Take the clip/wire (should be black with blue stripe) that normally goes to the starter and connect it to the other side of the coil on the relay.
Finally connect the other end of (A) to the positive terminal on the battery.
REATTACH NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
Thats it. Ill bet doing this solves MOST of the starting problems out there. Its about a 30 minute job at most and only costs a total of about $15 if you need to buy everything.
I hope this helps. If someone does this and would like to take pictures from start to finish they can be added. Im going to be doing this to another Supra in a couple of weeks so if theres nothing by then I can do it myself.
INTRO TO PROBLEM:
I figured I would post a little public service announcement to hopefully help some people and save them the aggravation of trying to replace a starter multiple times and not fixing the problem.
My car had been randomly "not cranking" over the past few weeks. It was getting worse and left me stranded numerous times. Although it is a manual so I was normally able to recruit some guys to give me a push for me to pop it and be on my way.
Of course the normal response around here is the starter contacts are worn/bad. Sure this MIGHT be the case, however I would bet more often its something a LOT simpler to deal with and correct.
There ARE random threads on this site and others that have this in them and they are great tool. I figured maybe one more isnt a bad thing as there are more "Help my car isnt starting randomly" threads then I could sift through.
Ok so enough rambling. Here you go. If you are having problems with your car not cranking (yet youre hearing a click at the starter relay, and a "thicker" click at the starter area), then try this. DO THE 30AMP RELAY MOD. SERIOUSLY.
WHY THIS IS A PROBLEM:
Basically, the old wiring and the setup of the stock starting circuit causes the voltage getting to the starter simply not enough at times. (Thanks IJ) The stock wire from the IGN side to the starter energizes the bendix and it's copper contacts and ring complete the motor circuit.
What happens though is not enough current to hold these contacts causes arcing so it just gets worse and worse.
SHOPPING LIST:
To correct this (and basically enhance your starting circuit along the way), simply go to Advance Auto Parts and get the following:
- 30AMP Relay- 4 prong self enclosed and it has a spot for a screw for mounting.
- Spool of 10 gauge wire. 12 gauge would be ok as well but I prefer to be safe then sorry.
- Spade connectors for said gauge wire
- Loop connectors for said gauge wire
DIRECTIONS TO MODIFY AND CORRECT THIS PROBLEM:
DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
Now find a place to mount the relay. I put mine down by the starter almost right off the framerail. I used one of the 10mm bolts that holds on one of the little shields.
Now take the wire and connectors and make:
- 1(A)- loop end connector---> spade connector. Length is from wherever you mount the relay to the positive battery terminal.
- 1(B)- spade end connector---> spade end connector. Length is from wherever you mount the relay to the terminal with the spade connector on the starter. Its encased by a brown "clip".
- 1(C) spade end connector----> loop end connector. Length is from wherever you mount the relay to a body ground. Theres a lot of random 10mm bolt holes that you can use for this.
Connect (A) to the input side of the switch on the relay.
Connect (B) to the open side of the switch on the relay and the other side of (B) to the starter terminal (brown clip).
Connect (C) to either side of the coil on the relay and ground other side of (C) to the body.
Take the clip/wire (should be black with blue stripe) that normally goes to the starter and connect it to the other side of the coil on the relay.
Finally connect the other end of (A) to the positive terminal on the battery.
REATTACH NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
WIRING DIAGRAMS:
Thats it. Ill bet doing this solves MOST of the starting problems out there. Its about a 30 minute job at most and only costs a total of about $15 if you need to buy everything.
I hope this helps. If someone does this and would like to take pictures from start to finish they can be added. Im going to be doing this to another Supra in a couple of weeks so if theres nothing by then I can do it myself.
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