Car dies sparatically also have some electrical issues.

T

turbojuiced

New Member
Apr 5, 2008
343
0
0
San Diego/Fairfield
Ok so little story first I bought another 7mgte from a friend of mine who really doesnt know much about cars in general.

Heres whats wrong. When i drive the car it dies sparatically usually when I am slowing down and my foot is off the accelorator coming to a stop. But I try and start it again and it starts right up and works fine for awhile. It doesnt always die when I slow down but it does every now and then. It does help when the car is in gear and I let the rpms slow it down. But it does happen more when its out of gear. Now i do notice it sounds like there is amisfiring problem so is this a cause of the sutting down or could it be a bad tps sensor? Also as far as the misfiring issues what all could it be what do I need to fix? Btw, the car does idle what it specifies in the tsrm. And the boost is reading stock.

Now to the electrial problems. My speedometer, odometer, and dash lights dont work. Everthing else seems to be operational. I did check the fuses and they are good. So I was thinking the speed sensor and possibly a bad ground?

Now there are a few mods on the car. It has a hks IC, aftermarket intake filter with a hks ssqv, and a greddy catback and a fpr. And another question are any of these mods not conducive to the supra? I do know that a vta type bov causes us evo guys to sparaticaly die as well, but I am not sure if its the same with the supras?

Thanks in advance.
 
A

Amontgomery

not so sad 10psi
Apr 1, 2008
166
0
0
Cleveland, MS
I have had the same problem.

It hasn't happened in a few days. I was throwing either a code 31 or 24 alternating. I came here and posted and was told to check my grounds, my voltage, and the vacuum causing the vehicle to lag down and die. I regrounded the ground wires by cleaning off the mounting surfaces and bolting it back down. It still did it just less frequently.

The previous owner had disconnected the valvecover vent recirculation link and just let it sit above the front right corner of the motor. It would drip a little at a time on the wires coming across the front of the motor. I took off the tape and most of the insulation and cleaned up the wiring. I also took some 5/8 heater hose and extended the valvecover vent to the hole in the fender so it would vent outside of the engine compartment. All of this is just to hold me over until I can afford to buy/make an oil catch can and take the time to rewire much of the engine bay(or swap in a 1JZ). So far it hasn't happened again but I am not sure that I have fixed the problem entirely.
 
Quin

Quin

Trans killer
Dec 5, 2006
1,989
0
36
33
Columbus, IN
turbojuiced;1038764 said:
Ok so little story first I bought another 7mgte from a friend of mine who really doesnt know much about cars in general.

Heres whats wrong. When i drive the car it dies sparatically usually when I am slowing down and my foot is off the accelorator coming to a stop. But I try and start it again and it starts right up and works fine for awhile. It doesnt always die when I slow down but it does every now and then. It does help when the car is in gear and I let the rpms slow it down. But it does happen more when its out of gear. Now i do notice it sounds like there is amisfiring problem so is this a cause of the sutting down or could it be a bad tps sensor? Also as far as the misfiring issues what all could it be what do I need to fix? Btw, the car does idle what it specifies in the tsrm. And the boost is reading stock.

Now to the electrial problems. My speedometer, odometer, and dash lights dont work. Everthing else seems to be operational. I did check the fuses and they are good. So I was thinking the speed sensor and possibly a bad ground?

Now there are a few mods on the car. It has a hks IC, aftermarket intake filter with a hks ssqv, and a greddy catback and a fpr. And another question are any of these mods not conducive to the supra? I do know that a vta type bov causes us evo guys to sparaticaly die as well, but I am not sure if its the same with the supras?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

caturday53.jpeg
 
ilikebigbutts

ilikebigbutts

workin' my dream
Jun 10, 2007
347
0
16
36
Pittsburgh
our speedos are not electrical, there is a cable going from the tranny to the back of the cluster.it's either broken or not connected at either end. it would be easier to check the tranny side first.The cluster is not hard to remove though.You can disconnect the tranny side and clucter side, spin one side and have somebody look to see if the other is turning.If its not, broken cable, if it is you need a cluster...

A vented bov will cause stalling.either buy a stock bov and recirculate it in the accordian hose or give it a lil gas when pushing the clutch in.
 
M

MA70Snowman

New Member
Oct 17, 2006
374
0
0
San Diego
turbojuiced;1039255 said:
Ok so the vta bov is the problem?
Click to expand...

I'll bet ur open venting your BOV, which is now allowing metered Air to escape the system. Since we have AFMs that like to account for every bit of air going into the system, when you let some of that air out it tends to shit itself.

Fixes:
1) get a stock/like BOV and put it back how its supposed to be.
2) get a recirculation kit for the SSQV and feed it back into the intake
3) Drive with it and learn to either engine brake past the stall point, or jab the gas a little as you're comming to a stop (I've driven w/ an open vented SSQ for over a year now)
4) get rid of the AFM, with a nice MAFT Pro setup or a VPC (I've got my MAFT Pro on order)
 
T

turbojuiced

New Member
Apr 5, 2008
343
0
0
San Diego/Fairfield
Hey everyone thanks for al the info. I am probably going to go with a stock bov for the time being. I dont see the purpose with going with a aftermarket one on the stock setup. Eventually I will build this car but for now I want to get it running fine. In the evo community we have the same issues with vta bov.

As far as the speedos concerned, I will definitely check that. Do you know which side of the tranny to check for? I am assuming its the driver side?

Again thaks guys.
 
sneakypete

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
Amontgomery;1038950 said:
I also took some 5/8 heater hose and extended the valvecover vent to the hole in the fender so it would vent outside of the engine compartment. entirely.
Click to expand...

so your venting your valve covers to the atmosphere. if i am understanding this right, this should also be contributing to your stalling issue if the hole in the accordion is not plugged up. if i were you i would reconnect the crankcase vents back to stock, meaning the hose from the tb to the valve covers and then to the accordion.
-pete
 
T

turbojuiced

New Member
Apr 5, 2008
343
0
0
San Diego/Fairfield
Ok update on whats going on. I finally got the car up on the lift today and I found a few descrepencies first off I noticed the piping for the exhaust and the IC was done so horribly that whoever did it should never touch a car again. So I went to a buddies shop who does pretty much any piping and welding and he is working on a custom exhaust and IC piping setup for me. Also I noticed that the bracket that holds up the tranny has 2 bolts missing and come to find out that they were stripped, so I got my handy dandy tap and die set out and I retapped the holes and now they have 2 new bolts in there. I cant beleive that the previous owner never fixed that.

I also noticed that the passenger side front axle boot was alittle torn so thats on order. The tear was caused by a rubbing IC pipe which I fixed.

All in all not too bad, but not up to my standards. I am almost completed with cleaning all the wires and connectors and putting zip ties where needed. I finally was able to install the new plugs and wires today. I got the stock ngk plugs and the were pre gapped to 032. I installed those and I installed the new wires the only thing I didnt like was you had to remove the throttle assembly and the intake pipe on top to get to the damn things haha. But anyways finished that up and did an oil change and the car now purrs like a kitten:biglaugh: . The misfire is gone and the rough idle went away and it drives so smoothly and I do feel more power.


O btw, the previous owner had autolite plugs in there so tha might be the cause of the misfire.

Also I recirced the ssqv and I havent died yet so I think everything has been alleviated?

O yeah one last thing. I checked that cable to the tranny and it appears that its connected. I unconnected it cleaned it up, then reconnected and still nothing. Any other ideas?
 
87nasupra

87nasupra

Scotty's Garage
Mar 2, 2006
993
0
0
Jacksonville, FLORIDA !
Speedo cable is on the tail of the passenger side. Take it off and spin it with a drill...not too fast though, or you will snap it. Have somebody check your speedometer. If it doesnt move then pull your cluster.....have them spin the drill again....if the cable spins from the dash its your cluster. Need to replace your Speedo/Odometer or your whole cluster, however you see fit. :icon_bigg Enjoy
 
T

turbojuiced

New Member
Apr 5, 2008
343
0
0
San Diego/Fairfield
87nasupra;1040932 said:
Speedo cable is on the tail of the passenger side. Take it off and spin it with a drill...not too fast though, or you will snap it. Have somebody check your speedometer. If it doesnt move then pull your cluster.....have them spin the drill again....if the cable spins from the dash its your cluster. Need to replace your Speedo/Odometer or your whole cluster, however you see fit. :icon_bigg Enjoy
Click to expand...

Ok I didnt check it that way. I will try and do that next trip to the shop.
 
T

turbojuiced

New Member
Apr 5, 2008
343
0
0
San Diego/Fairfield
Ok so tagging onto this thread I have fixed most of the issues in the OP. Now I have another issue lol. I know what a car right?

So as stated earlier this is the same car just different problem.

The car now doesnt start! uh oh I know.

Just a quick refresher car has new plugs and wires and brand new battery. Everything was put in properly as stated by the tsrm and it was running great!

Now the car doesnt start. Here are the symptoms. The car cranks but doesnt seem to want to run. I am getting fuel so thats out of the question. But from what it sounds like its the starter. I checked the battery and it has full power(btw its an orbital) and so that tells me the alternator is working fine. When I start the car it cranks and cranks and cranks. Now of course at first it doesnt sound like the starter cause its cranking but what else could it be? The coils possibly? I am having the car get checked for codes this weekend as I dont have anytime right now to tinker with it.

But anyone know exactly what the problem is? I also figure its the starter because as stated in the OP the car had a problem with sparatically dying due to the vta bov so I had to restart the car a bunch of times so I am thinking the starter has finally met its day.

Thanks again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom