Capacitor

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
12,377
3
38
56
Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
The noise was distortion from the amp's built in caps running out of power - on the sub amp. On the other amp, it wasn't getting a nice clean 12+ volts anymore because the sub amp was eating too much of the power.

I'll agree that modern day competition grade amps should never run out of power as long as they are run within their specs.

However, I'm running old school amps at very low resistances, and using external actively cooled heatsinks and the cap to keep them stable. I've grenaded a LOT of stereo equipment learning exactly how much you can 'push' beyond the factory specs. Not such a big deal when you are working in a stereo shop, so factory returns aren't difficult. I've done everything from loosing the magic smoke in many components all the way to heating up an amp to the point that the solder on the mainboard inside melted and all the components fell off, making a heavy duty baby rattle out of a $2000 amp.

Unfortunately (well, kindof) I don't work in a stereo shop anymore, and haven't for many years now. On the other side of the coin, I make enough money in the computer software industry now that I can afford to pay regular retail for anything I really care to own. Furthermore, since I passed the age of 30, I rarely push the system hard enough to roast anything anymore.
 

vdragonmpc

tireflaminrumpshaker
Apr 11, 2005
300
0
16
54
Colonial Heights
www.joncjennings.com
WeDgE said:
Capacitors are more for show than anything. Small caps are too small to be useful...Large caps have too high of an ESR value.


If you want to upgrade your electrical system to provide stable power to your amplifiers, upgrade your alternator. :)

I have been installing stereos for a VERY long time... I can tell you the most expensive BUT cometition spanking addition was adding a 170 amp alternator to my system. I have tried marine batteries when they were the thing... Dual batteries even 3-4 batteries at a bass off...

Capacitors helped with my digital dash shutting down on bass notes in my 85... They also helped with sound quality. Remember many amps are rated at 14.5 to 15 amps NOT 12-14. Guess where your voltages range when running your car sitting?
Optima batteries are mainly good marketting. I have detonated several over the years... The parts stores wont listen when you return them dead and try to recharge them. >Hint< Optima batteries DO NOT QUICKCHARGE!!! its spectacular when Advance does this... To explosive results. Optimas have a great warranty and just rock if you use them in the trunk as a secondary... I like either Interstate Megatrons or Die Hard golds as the primary... Seems to last the best

I run 1/0 from front to rear on my install and it has a few benefits... The amps
with this kind of set up seem to run better and more efficient...

V
 

Fuzz420

Are U Here 2 take My Baby
GrimJack said:
Those Orion HCCA series amps are kick ass. Right up there with 1st Gen Rodek, 7th & 8th gen HiFonics, and Zapco gear.


Mine actually is an xtr series, but very similar. Ive had indept conversions with people that repair these amps. They told me the hcca was great and all but a huge burden.Everybody explained to me that these amps draw so much current it was ridiculous. He said it ran so hott, that the fan in the middle was like a blow dyer blowing the heat back on it!!!The only difference between my xtr and the hcca is how they rate the power.The top model hcca puts out roughly 1600w @ .5 ohms. My xtr does 1000w @ 4 ohms, its not reccomended to go below 4 ohms on the xtr, but the guy i spoke with assured me they were 99.9% the same amp and the only difference inside was the power and ground connectors allowing for more current flow, and of course one being red and one being black.

Heres a little secret he told me the orion xtr 2250 and the equivelant hcca(sorry brain fart cant remember the model)were over rated, the hcca slightly more than the xtr. He said if i wanted the most bang for the buck(on ebay)orion amp i should get the Xtr-2400.Its rated at 1200 x 2 @ 2ohms.He also said it typically runs cheaper than the two afore mentioned models(whichs is also true).It said it only draws around 200ish amps as opposed to 300 plus, and he said it stays 10x's cooler than the other ones when ran within spec.

Sorry bout the long post, stereo equpiment is an another addiction itself
 

born2drv

Banned
Nov 1, 2005
1,199
0
0
Burbank, CA
Just installed my 1.0F cap...

Recap on setup: my system has a 600WRMS kicker amp.... 5-1/4" + tweet up front, 8" coaxials in the back... no subwoofer (yet) but I get decent bass out of those speakers.... running with a redtop optima battery relocated in back... brand new 100amp mr2 alternator.... 0-gauge wire all the way front to back. I have a solid 12.9-13.3V when the car is not running, and 14.9-15.2V when it is.

Anyhow: I noticed a huge difference when I put my cap in... my lights no longer flicker with the music (before it was just slightly noticeable, now it is gone)... and the sound is much more cleaned up.... less distortion.

Your mileage may vary.