The one thing that bugs me about the look of the 7m is the wires at the water neck. Don't get me wrong, a polished FFIM and CoP conversion with a cover up plate looks sexy too.
Build up 7MGTE or go 1JZ?
- Thread starter EHumble
- Start date
for those who would pull the 7m because it can't be made pretty................ have you seen duane's supra, or the one from down under?
http://image.importtuner.com/f/31977850+w750+st0/impp_1104_06_o+1989_toyota_supra+engine_bay.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg152/HKS_TRD/Rebuild/131120123159.jpg
http://image.importtuner.com/f/31977850+w750+st0/impp_1104_06_o+1989_toyota_supra+engine_bay.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg152/HKS_TRD/Rebuild/131120123159.jpg
Appearance is a personal thing. The wire-tucked, polished chrome look is kinda retro, but does look nice.
I'm not at the point where I care so much about what it looks like. Probably if I did, I'd start looking to make some sort of cover, like newer cars have so that you can't see any of the ancillary stuff on or around the engine. Dipstick, oil fill cap, PS fluid cap, washer fluid, radiator cap, then the brake and clutch masters. The rest is a big black box that just fits under the hood and goes vroom.
I'm not at the point where I care so much about what it looks like. Probably if I did, I'd start looking to make some sort of cover, like newer cars have so that you can't see any of the ancillary stuff on or around the engine. Dipstick, oil fill cap, PS fluid cap, washer fluid, radiator cap, then the brake and clutch masters. The rest is a big black box that just fits under the hood and goes vroom.
Both of the samples above are FFIM which makes them very similar to the 2j look.
Something else to consider... They made the 2j after the 7m, but you can consider the 7m a stoker version of the 2j. All you need to do really is modify the 7m head a bit and I think you could consider the 7m superior.
Something else to consider... They made the 2j after the 7m, but you can consider the 7m a stoker version of the 2j. All you need to do really is modify the 7m head a bit and I think you could consider the 7m superior.
Grandavi;1942020 said:Both of the samples above are FFIM which makes them very similar to the 2j look.
Something else to consider... They made the 2j after the 7m, but you can consider the 7m a stoker version of the 2j. All you need to do really is modify the 7m head a bit and I think you could consider the 7m superior.
Grandavi, you can't be making statements like that. Too many people can't handle that statement around here. You can't make the inferior appear superior by modifying something.
Lol, I found that out when I looked at my dyno and saw the massive torque.
No worries though, I believe there is a stroker kit for the 2jz for an extra 9000.00 that makes it superior again... But I think that's off topic.
(9000 rpm, 3.5 litre... Imagine... )
No worries though, I believe there is a stroker kit for the 2jz for an extra 9000.00 that makes it superior again... But I think that's off topic.
(9000 rpm, 3.5 litre... Imagine... )
Grandavi;1942020 said:Both of the samples above are FFIM which makes them very similar to the 2j look.
Something else to consider... They made the 2j after the 7m, but you can consider the 7m a stoker version of the 2j. All you need to do really is modify the 7m head a bit and I think you could consider the 7m superior.
modify the head how?
I don't know for certain what the valid modifications would be so its better I don't answer.
You don't "need" to do anything to the head, but you can improve it.
You don't "need" to do anything to the head, but you can improve it.
You guys are a bunch of aggravators! ....you like poking the bear?..ah screw it I'll go to the Looney bin with ya...
1.) Take 7m out and take apart
2.) Machine it, metal HG, bottom end assembled CORRECTLY, port match head and upgrade valves, springs
3.) Upgrade the small oiling/cooling issues
4.) Put back together
5.) Put as many power adding mods on it as you wish
6.) Go pray, wish upon a shooting star, find a four leaf clover, find a penny heads up, and go tune your new engine
7.) Now you have a 7m that compares to the 2j like the big guy from the green mile compares to Steve Earcle.
1.) Take 7m out and take apart
2.) Machine it, metal HG, bottom end assembled CORRECTLY, port match head and upgrade valves, springs
3.) Upgrade the small oiling/cooling issues
4.) Put back together
5.) Put as many power adding mods on it as you wish
6.) Go pray, wish upon a shooting star, find a four leaf clover, find a penny heads up, and go tune your new engine
7.) Now you have a 7m that compares to the 2j like the big guy from the green mile compares to Steve Earcle.
Think he meant "oiling" and "cooling" as two issues.
As far as I know, oiling issues only show up on high HP mK3s because the oil pump is up front on the engine (I may be wrong) so they usually overfill it slightly (about 1/2 a quart or more)
Cooling, well.. this is the hottest engine bay I have personally seen. My very first upgrade was a larger rad and I have never regretted that. It tends to get hottest at the rear of the engine and (of course) on the exhaust side.
This isn't an issue really if your running properly and not leaning out. I don't think we have to worry about it until after you hit 500 at the wheels.. and then it may be getting a bit hotter than you want. (again.. I may be wrong on that)
People I talk to recommend water/meth injection if you go higher than 550 rwhp to help prevent detonation (which is the bad boy).
As far as I know, oiling issues only show up on high HP mK3s because the oil pump is up front on the engine (I may be wrong) so they usually overfill it slightly (about 1/2 a quart or more)
Cooling, well.. this is the hottest engine bay I have personally seen. My very first upgrade was a larger rad and I have never regretted that. It tends to get hottest at the rear of the engine and (of course) on the exhaust side.
This isn't an issue really if your running properly and not leaning out. I don't think we have to worry about it until after you hit 500 at the wheels.. and then it may be getting a bit hotter than you want. (again.. I may be wrong on that)
People I talk to recommend water/meth injection if you go higher than 550 rwhp to help prevent detonation (which is the bad boy).
The entire design of the stock oiling system, the coolant line on the back of the head, the stock radiator and intercooler, and the overall amount of heat put out by the motor to name a few..those opinions are my own assumptions and might be argued with but you can search them individually and make your own judgement.
BryanDyer;1942270 said:
Don't you know the 7m has no problems its bullet proof! That's why everyone wants one.