Boost/Vacuum gauge on N/A?

[ValgeKotkas]

Taken from http://www.ma70.com/bishop/namod.html. As I'm making preventative maintenance, thought that maybe one of those would be good...

Boost/Vacuum gauge - this is actually a handy gauge to have on a normally aspirated car. Knowing engine vacuum will tell you how healthy the motor is, and if there's a problem you can sometimes determine it by the amount of vacuum. You can get away with a really cheap one if you want.

What do you think?
Where should it be connected to get useful readings?

 

[jetjock]

Well, a straight vacuum gage can be useful. Compound gage on an N/A is superfluous but if it makes you happy go for it. Connect either to the intake plenum....

 

[Poodles]

basicly whichever is cheaper LOL

 

[ValgeKotkas]

Ok, and what exaclty would the vacuum gauge show me then?

 

[HommerSimpson]

http://www.theautoist.com/VACUUM_GUAGE_PHOTO.JPG

 

[IJ.]

Ok, and what exaclty would the vacuum gauge show me then?

vacuum

 

[Poodles]

I remember an old muscle car guy running one and he could tell where to shift because of it, but I can't remember how...

 

[ValgeKotkas]

vacuum

Really really? :aigo:
But what would that vacuum-number mean to me. I'm stupid and don't want to research the internet:naughty:
Cheapeast I can find now on ebay would be one with a sensor that could be mounted anywhere and then wires from the sensor can be ran into cabin and onto the gauge. Would those be reliable?

 

[IJ.]

That your eggs are done


The engine will produce different amounts of vacuum under different conditions ie: Idle/WoT in time you'll notice trends so it can be good to monitor for impending doom!

Often problems will show up on the gauge long before a mechanical issue stops the engine.

 

[ValgeKotkas]

Everything that has to do with food is important!
So the cheaper the ''better''?
Should be ok?

 

[IJ.]

I think Poo meant the cheaper of the 2 between a straight Vacc gauge and a Vacc/Boost gauge.

"cheap" gauges are useless, spend a little extra.

 

[jetjock]

Ok, and what exaclty would the vacuum gauge show me then?

That you don't have a turbo

 

[IJ.]

That you don't have a turbo

LMAO "404 Turbo Not Found"

 

[ValgeKotkas]

So I installed the vacuum gauge. I connected it, like JJ said, from the back (firewall side) of the intake plenum where the vacuum for the ECO thing, Cruisecontrol and something else is.
Problem - connecting it directly to the plenum gives nice, fast reacting readings, connecting it with the T splitter doesn't give so fast reactions (when in neutral and giving throttle - I can't drive the car, one brake line rusted through).
Should it be so or am I looking wrong or is there another solution?

 

[RockPaperSwoRD]

it doesnt really matter what its teed off to, you can hook it up to any vacuum line, check if you have one thats capped off

 

[ValgeKotkas]

I haven't noticed any free vacuum ports. Any suggestions where one could be hiding?
I just have this, but I tried and it doesn't suck...

87 N/A without EGR/charcoal canister if that helps...

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I believe if that one isn't capped off you will have a vacume leak. I'd cap it anyhow.

 

[aus87nat]

I had no trouble running mine T-pieced into the heater/cruise control port.

I was playing around with some things one day and left a vac line open, and got bad readings on the gauge. Make sure it's all sealing up.

 

[ValgeKotkas]

That's an idea. I'll look into it.

 

[jetjock]

Not that it should make much of a difference but I never said to connect it there. I was going to suggest the same about vacuum leaks. For example I can readily tell from my gage's behavior if say, the little heater valve line pops off, even it it comes off all the way over at the valve.