flubyux2 said:
Well, if you use a Bomex rear with bomex sides - the lip is uniform.
Or, if you use a Kaminari rear with kaminari sides = the lip is uniform.
You can't really expect to use Bomex rear and Kaminari sides and expect it to be perfect.
Bomex Rears - Post Em Gaps or no gaps
- Thread starter csnow
- Start date
Well, if you use a Bomex rear with bomex sides - the lip is uniform.
Or, if you use a Kaminari rear with kaminari sides = the lip is uniform.
You can't really expect to use Bomex rear and Kaminari sides and expect it to be perfect.
I temporarily screwed the top and bottom in with auto-body grade plastic welding glue between the bumper skin and the Bomex rear panel.
Once set-up, I filled the screw holes as if they were dents, and sanded/primed from there.
Once set-up, I filled the screw holes as if they were dents, and sanded/primed from there.
Jayhall said:
No way! "Becasue" yo' mom is cheap! Junky some people feel strongly. Oh well, we are online.
If I had the option again to mold or not mold, I would keep them un-molded. Give the molded rears 1 year, 2 years tops and they will be cracked, no matter who did the body work. In the end the cracks would look like "ass."
Although, if Shine would have made a mold of the rears and bumper as one piece, I would have favored it. Unfortunately, the price would go up and we all know what would happen to Shines profits.
Cheers
Matt-
the one on mike u's car look good. Atleast they were fitted properly. That other one, big gap, probably spent 10 mins screwing them on. Looks like they could fall off at 60 mph. I dont know, im only guessing, but really, would it cost more than $600 to get a body shop to put them on properly??
improved said:
Obviously, it does matter who does the body work - since that statement is completely false. There are plenty of people who have had their molded bomex rears stay crack-free for more than two years.
To do just the rears, it should be significantly less than that. I did a similar project (I worked at a body shop some years ago) and I charged 2 hours labor for the molding (@$70/hr). Removal/reassembly/paint was another ~$220.
improved said:
5 years here and no sign of crack. I think Urbano's side skirts were filled and painted. Bomex skirts does not come that tick of material.
i don't think i'm cheap.i probably have more invested then the average community member.most body shop's want more then the book value of the car to do body work and paint on it.i can understand because all these fiberglass piece's need to be blocked and filled to be perfectly smooth.the quote i got was with me R&R'ing all the glass and moulding's myself too.
My paint was gonna be about $2000+/-. But then I asked about a little extra secret with the paint, and he said it would be about $200. He doesn't know about the Bomex parts yet. So, I'm guessing I will be $2500-$2700+/-. He does very high quality work, so I am almost OK with "buying a turbo MKIII" to have paint on this one.
My painter is in a small shop, and comes highly recommended. It's also 1/4 mile from where I work. I actually got to check in on his work through every step of him doing an 89 Supra, and was very impressed. He's not overwhelmed with work like some of the high dollar big shops, so he takes his time to do things right, and it doesn't take 3-4 weeks to get it back.
I'm gonna trust his opinion of how to mold them in, and hopefully last a while.
I'm gonna trust his opinion of how to mold them in, and hopefully last a while.
Look alot better molded in, if you like that kind of thing.
I'm old school I guess, can't see myself driving around with all that flash gordon body work...too "Tokyo Drift" for me.
Big $$$'s to pay someone else.
I can't believe how many of you guys have mechanics, tuners, body guys, etc. I do everything on my Supra myself, always have. It doesn't take genius, just patience and getting through the learning curve. Can't be afraid to get dirty either.:icon_bigg
I'm old school I guess, can't see myself driving around with all that flash gordon body work...too "Tokyo Drift" for me.
Big $$$'s to pay someone else.
I can't believe how many of you guys have mechanics, tuners, body guys, etc. I do everything on my Supra myself, always have. It doesn't take genius, just patience and getting through the learning curve. Can't be afraid to get dirty either.:icon_bigg
^ Ditto as invariably anything I farm out ends up being wrong and having to be redone before I'm happy....
To the point I'm going to purchase a lot of the tooling I need for block machining.
To the point I'm going to purchase a lot of the tooling I need for block machining.
Some of us don't have the time to do every job on our supras. That's why you hire people to do what they do best. I have a job and a family. I coach little league tball, and basketball. I would rather do my job and let someone else do theirs. That's kind of what makes the economy work. If you're a mechanic or a welder, there's no way you're going to do bodywork as good as someone that does it all day everyday, and if you think you can, then you're sadly mistaken. I do all of my mechanicing and I did my own 1jz swap, but I won't be tackling any body work when I have a friend that owns a body shop. I'll let him do what he does best, and I'll probably end up having to remodel his shop or something in return.
ForcedTorque said:
LMAO!! thanx Forced!
its ONLY my driver side rear that fits so bad. the passenger side of my car fits like a glove (like Urbanos blue car pictured). some people actually use double stick tape to get the rears to sit that close to the body. Even Urbano had the same problem on his drivers side! he ended up using a black self taping screw to hold it in place at the top corner (inconspicuous). i actually just recently gave in and did the same. so the gap some of u are complaining about now is gone. though the cut off line for where the skirt sits at the bumper starts is of course still visible. i originaly wanted to mold it but Mike insisted over and over "DONT!! IT WILL CRACK!" i listned to the man and cant really complain.
i agree there are some other skirts out there that dont reveal the lines as the bomex rears do. but until i can find an alternative id be wiling to trade for, ill stick with Bomex all the way around.
Last edited:
IJ. said:
IJ. said:J: LMAO Fatty is a PIG
It's not what I'd call a pretty Mk3 by a long shot.
You must not have mastered the paint thing yet IJ!
I have a family of 6, and I work a lot of overtime at work. The pace of my builds is already slow (not quite Jake or Dave slow), but it would take me years to finish a car if I did Everything myself. As Jay said, I'd rather trust someone who does it every day. Then I can be an asshole about the parts I don't like.