BHG job questions....

[KongGMC]

I'm in the middle of taking my car apart to replace a head gasket and timing belt. I have come to a couple of stoppers though.

1. How do you get the crankshaft pully off? I read the TSRM and they say to use these specialty Toyota tools. I tried an impact wrench and it wasn't strong enough to break it loose. I tried turning it with a huge cheater bar but that just turns the motor over(even in gear). Should I jack it up and find a way to chock the flywheel in place or is there an easier way?

2. I was taking the exhaust manifold off and can't seem to find a good way to get the 3 bolts at the bottom of the manifold where it meets up with the exhaust pipe off. There a trick here?

3. When I took my fuel rail off, I noticed copper washers on all of the fuel lines. Where do you get replacements?

4. Where is the best place to buy a set of ARP head studs for this thing?

5. In one write-up I read through, a guy said to replace the valve cover bolts with M6 manifold studs or bolts or something. Where do you get these and why are they better?

Sorry for the long list and thanks in advance!

 

[Tire Shredder]

1. impact gun might do it, or put a large breaker bar on the car, brace it against the ground and tap the starter to loosen it off. Then use a crank pulley puller to remove it. do NOT try and pry it with anything, you'll bend it

2. patience

3. toyota, or they should come with a decent full gasket set. my set from the seller "gaskets4less" on ebay came with them.

4. not necessary for an NA, but if you insist there are a number of good vendors attached to this forum, check the vendor section. MDC, driftmotion and raptor racing can all supply you with what you need. stock headbolts will work just fine unless yo uare using a metal headgasket.

5. http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41&products_id=76

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I think he's referring to the valve cover bolts. Just take one of the screws to the hardware and get cap screws the same size and length. The metal washers that have a rubber seal on them should be replaced also. They are better because you can use a socket on them instead of a phillips.

 

[Tire Shredder]

my bad. edited my original post

 

[labrat469]

I just had to repair some leaky seals today. To get the crankshaft pulley off put your car into gear, 5th works for me. And use a cheater bar or large box wrench. It did not take me long to loosen the bolt. The real trick was getting the pulley off without a pulley puller.

 

[suprarx7nut]

ARP studs from DRIFTMOTION

They were excellent, IMO. They realized they forgot a piece of my order and First classed it to me and it arrived at the same time as the rest of the order. GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE.

If you have a problem, you can call the number for DM and actually talk to Aaron right away. I'll be ordering more from him in the future.

Not to mention he sells preassembled kits and small odds and ends that you may need like:
-Tap to chase block threads BEFORE installing new bolts/studs.
-Exhaust manifold helicoil kit.

 

[KongGMC]

Speaking of the exhaust manifold, I think only like 2 of the manifold studs were actually tight. The others didn't require any "breaking loose", they just turned. I examined the studs and they don't appear to have any signs of cross threading on them so I'm hoping all is well there.

Also, like I said, I put it into gear and tried using a cheater bar on the pully bolt and the engine still turned over. I put it into 3rd though, I don't know if putting it into 5th is gonna make any difference but I'm gonna try that and see. I guess once I get it broken loose, I can always still turn it back to where it needs to be.

And I forgot to mention, when I took the injector rail out the thing was full of dirt/mud. I don't know how for the life of me this thing was even running. Can't you soak injectors and fuel rails in something to clean them good or are there seals and stuff that'll get messed up? I just need to find the best way to clean everything.

Thnx for the tips guys. I really appreciate it. I am hoping to get this done about the same time I get my income tax check back or sooner so I can buy everything I need and get the head in the machine shop asap.

 

[Burntz]

1. How do you get the crankshaft pully off? I read the TSRM and they say to use these specialty Toyota tools. I tried an impact wrench and it wasn't strong enough to break it loose. I tried turning it with a huge cheater bar but that just turns the motor over(even in gear). Should I jack it up and find a way to chock the flywheel in place or is there an easier way?

Take off the splash pan on the trans and stick a big ole straight screwdriver in it. then a long breaker bar with a 19 mm, and a cheater bar will do it. ask me how i know lol

btw, i tried the "putting it in gear thing" load of shit. the clutch will just turn on the flywheel and it won't hold it.
think about it, you're using 195 + ft/lbs of torque to try to break that bolt loose. the flywheel is just going to slip on the clutch that is stuck in gear.

2. I was taking the exhaust manifold off and can't seem to find a good way to get the 3 bolts at the bottom of the manifold where it meets up with the exhaust pipe off. There a trick here?

just take the manifold off? and push it out of the way. what i did *shrugs*
3. When I took my fuel rail off, I noticed copper washers on all of the fuel lines. Where do you get replacements?

any parts store. i work at autozone so i'd say their. back in the oil plug section they have copper crush washers that should work. i re-used mine and got lucky that they sealed haha

4. Where is the best place to buy a set of ARP head studs for this thing?
any site that sells them and is reasonable. get ahold of aaron at driftmotion

5. In one write-up I read through, a guy said to replace the valve cover bolts with M6 manifold studs or bolts or something. Where do you get these and why are they better?

from any parts store. because they wont strip out and they're easier to take on and off.

 

[supramacist]

Look. When all else fails in removing the crank pulley or breaking the NUT.
You have to remove the starter and get one of those huge flat head pry bars and jam up the flywheel while you try to throw out a shoulder popping that slut loose.

And if any of you have done this can probably attest to what a whore she really is.

You mess up the crank pulley and news flash. They aren't just toyota only parts.
They are toyota only "extinct" parts. They no longer make them and they run right about 350 bucks. IF...., you can find one. I got lucky after 2 weeks of searching and found a new one that Chicago had forgotten about. Good Luck.

And that 15 year old metal is alot more fragile than you think it is.
I promise you that.

And so we all know the torque spec on the crank bolt is 295lbs Per tsrm on my 91 n/a.

 

[IJ.]

They still make them I bought a new one last year
(on average it might take 6 weeks but they will supply most parts)

195 ft/lbs accuracy counts in the tech section.

 

[Tire Shredder]

don't forget the new crank pulley bolt.

 

[labrat469]

By putting the car into 5th you are using the transmission gearing and the weight of the car to help you break the bolt loose. For added resistance to help you block the wheels to stop the car from rolling. The motor will turn a little bit until you get some compression built up. Then the bolt should break loose. This is exactly what I did yesterday to get my pulley bolt loose so I could check and replace seals that were leaking. Today I have to tighten all of the belts and start the motor to see it there are anymore oils leaks.

 

[d_block.5]

By putting the car into 5th you are using the transmission gearing and the weight of the car to help you break the bolt loose. For added resistance to help you block the wheels to stop the car from rolling. The motor will turn a little bit until you get some compression built up. Then the bolt should break loose. This is exactly what I did yesterday to get my pulley bolt loose so I could check and replace seals that were leaking. Today I have to tighten all of the belts and start the motor to see it there are anymore oils leaks.

exactly what I did when I took my crank pulley off, had it in fifth and pressed in the brakes alittle, came off with alittle muscle.

 

[HommerSimpson]

put breaker bar on bolt brace on frame on battey side and hit the key...if starter still hooked up...

 

[jdub]

You mess up the crank pulley and news flash. They aren't just toyota only parts.
They are toyota only "extinct" parts. They no longer make them and they run right about 350 bucks. IF...., you can find one. I got lucky after 2 weeks of searching and found a new one that Chicago had forgotten about. Good Luck.

Why would you buy a Toyota Dampner when you can get one from ATI that's about 5 lbs lighter, higher quality, for about the same price

 

[KongGMC]

Cool, I've taken off a few crank pullies in the past but it has been a while. I thought I remembered chocking the flywheel with a big screw driver on my Conquest TSI but I couldn't remember. When I did the timing belt on my OZ Lancer I was able to just use an impact to get it off but I've since broken and trashed that hoss of a gun and the one I'm using now isn't strong enough. It'll be alright though, I've got a 3.5-4ft cheater bar that should work great once I get more time to work on it and someone to hold the flywheel still!

I also just read the TSRM and it said 195ft. lbs. of torque on the crank pully bolt. 295ft. lbs. was probably just a typo accident. I don't know of anyone that has a torque wrench that goes that high anyway, LOL.

Thnx guys.

 

[KongGMC]

I would buy a Toyota Dampner when you can get one from ATI that's about 5 lbs lighter, higher quality, for about the same price

Really? Did you notice any performance gain from this? I know some people claim to gain some performance on smaller engines by replacing the crankshaft pully with a lighter weight one but never tried it. Might get a price on one when I go to Toyota to get the other stuff I need for this job.

 

[jdub]

PM Suprarich (SIP Racing), he carries them. Performance wise, not much of a gain. But I can pretty much promise you, the rubber in your OEM dampner (if it's original) is shot...not good for what it's intended to do

 

[supramacist]

They gave me some kind of story last year when I bought my crank pulley bolt.
It took a month to finally get it counting the 2 weeks of looking.

my parts counter holder upper here swears still to this day that those parts are no longer made by toyota and are of limited supply.

I don't work there, I couldn't tell you if he's full of it or not. He could have been blowing smoke up the ole poop shoot for all I know.

But this IS what My local toyota rep told me. Those guys really act like they're doing something to have to stop eating that popcorn and turn the tv down cause someone actually needs some help.

I'm not trying to offend anyone. I just don't want you guys thinking I'm on here making crap up anymore than you already do.

 

[IJ.]

Find another dealer with a parts guy that works for a living.

Fucking lazy pricks annoy me.

I wanted a new instrument cluster clear cover the were "NLA" my guy e-mailed Japan they had some made it took 6 weeks and I had my part (have done this on a bunch of bits)

At another dealer I would have got the "NLA you're out of luck" line of BS.

I guess on really big $ things this may not work (Blocks and so on) but on all the small parts I've ordered it's been fine.