BHG. But why?

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
Mar 30, 2005
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I hate to disagree with you shaeff because usually you are spot on. And it is true that many people run with 75 ft/lbs with out a problem. However I would like to point out some things.

1. The 75 ft/lbs recommendation was made for Toyota hardware.

2. ARP recommends 86ft/lbs for a reason, to achieve proper preload. Head bolts are similar to springs because of the metal they are made of. Just as you need to stretch a spring to a certain limit to achieve the correct clamping pressure. You need to stretch the head bolt to a certain limit, other wise it may stretch a little more under pressure from things like thermal expansion of the aluminum in the head and combustion pressures at higher boost levels. You need to have the correct preload on the head bolt so it doesn’t stretch more than expected.

3. If he only dialed in 75ft/lbs of torque using 30 wt. oil ( like most old school engine builders do), there is almost a 20 ft/lbs difference in torque reading between the oil and moly lube. This means a 75 ft/lbs reading with 30 wt. would be a 55 ft/lbs reading on moly lube. And as we all have had drilled into our heads 55 ft/lbs is bad and will result in failed head gaskets. This is the reason I would like to clarify what he used for lube.

However on the other side of the coin siman’s recommendation of cranking in another 15-25ft/lbs of torque isn’t the best idea either.

Taken from ARP’s website : http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.Images/2005ARPCatalog.pdf

ARP said:
It is important to note that in order for a fastener to function properly it must be “stretched” a specific amount. The material’s ability to “rebound” like a spring is what provides the clamping force. You should know that different materials react differently to these conditions, and ARP engineers have designed each fastener to operate within specific ranges.

On the other hand, if a fastener is over torqued and becomes stretched too much – you have exceeded the yield strength and it’s ruined. If the fastener is longer than manufactured – even if it is only .001,˝ it is in a partially failed condition. Therefore, ARP has engineered its fasteners with the ductility to stretch a given amount and rebound for proper clamping.

Heat, primarily in aluminum, is another problem area. Because the thermal expansion rate of aluminum is far greater than that of steel it is possible to stretch a fastener beyond yield as the aluminum expands under heat. An effective way of counteracting material expansion is through producing a more flexible bolt.

Over torquing a bolt is also a bad idea. Over tightening a bolt may not have an immediate affect however after repeated trips to, or near it’s yield limit because of the different expansion rate of the aluminum head the bolt may lose its ductility, the ability to stretch and contract while maintaining the correct clamping force.( the spring when pulled to far out one to many times will ware out and lose it strength.)
It’s a good idea to follow ARP’s recommended torque value, they spent a lot of money to figure out just where the right point is. Over tightening a bolt does nothing but make you feel better in the back of your mind, and in the end may be detrimental to your motor.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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One thing Dirgle didn't mention is that our heads while looking like a big solid casting are anything but!

They're honeycombed with passages and quite weak in a few places so by over torquing them you're running the risk of deformation and in a head where the Cams run in the head material without bearings this can be a very bad thing!

 

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
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Very good point IJ, this fact is further enforced if the aluminum in our head goes soft. Then the washers on the head bolts can really dig in, thus reducing the clamping force.
 

siman

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Mar 31, 2005
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Hypothesis? LOL It is a THEORY.

It has happend many times and I have seen it happen.

You guys just over complicate things.


For god sakes, the proper torque on wheels/studs is about 90ft/lbs(dry torque; w/o lube). Your telling me you torque the head to 70ft/lbs (with a lube its about 55ft/lbs effective torque) for an object that is going to have nearly or over 250psi pressure pushing on it with heat soaking?

-Jonathan (its not JON, there is another 5 letters in my name you know :rolleyes: )
 

Orion ZyGarian

Jeff Lange wannabe
Apr 2, 2005
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The lack of enough torque is the first thing I noticed wrong about what was said. As stated a bunch of times, I think it was undertorqued.

Also, I'm assuming you torqued the head in the proper sequence as stated in the factory manuals and not all at once; personally to be extra careful, I'll be torquing everything in the correct order around 5lbs at a time...the more conservative the better in this case IMO.
 

siman

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johnathan1 said:
wow, my sheet said 80ft/lbs...whats going on??
You also are using an OEM crush-seal type headgasket whereas using a solid MHG compresses and bonds COMPLETEY different.

The overall point is not torquing the bolts to the BOLT MANUFACTURERS spec's is not the best idea.

Use tires for example.

Many people buy aftermarket tires with differet ply's and construction but still fill them up to the FACTORY pressure. Use our Mk3's for example. I would NEVER put 28-30psi in my 305-35-18's that from the manufacturer say the OPTIMAL tire pressure is 45-50psi.

-Jonathan M.
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
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wait, the place that I got the studs from had absolutely no idea that I was going to use an OEM hg, and not a metal one, 80ft/lbs is what it said on the paper, and it is what Aaron recommended to me, so...yea.

So is 80ft/lbs not enough or something? I'm confused...
 

bobiseverywhere

bobb'n for money
Apr 1, 2005
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johnathan1 said:
wait, the place that I got the studs from had absolutely no idea that I was going to use an OEM hg, and not a metal one, 80ft/lbs is what it said on the paper, and it is what Aaron recommended to me, so...yea.

So is 80ft/lbs not enough or something? I'm confused...

80ft/lbs or 85ft/lbs is fine with a stock HG just make sure that you used the molly lube. i know people who have a stocker and ARP's at 85ft/lba running 14Psi just fine. for years with no issue on there HG blowing so it is posible


MDC it deffinatly sounds like your head just was not tourqued down enough.

or at least i hope so. I would really like to know what you see when you take everything apart.
 

siman

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johnathan1 said:
wait, the place that I got the studs from had absolutely no idea that I was going to use an OEM hg, and not a metal one, 80ft/lbs is what it said on the paper, and it is what Aaron recommended to me, so...yea.

So is 80ft/lbs not enough or something? I'm confused...

Johnathan, your right. 80ft/lbs on a crush type gasket is FINE. But when your compressing a solid object between TWO more solid objects ( mhg between the head and block) you need to make sure the surfaces are totally devoid of any particles or imperfections ( bringing to light the reason why we must STRESS to get the head and block decked with the finest cutting/milling tips available at your machine shop of choice. ).

See the soft type gasket like yours can CONFORM to the surface, hence the reason the older style motors built back then used them. The litteral machines of today that cut with thousands of times more accuracy were just not available at the time of the 7mgte's conception. But when the JZ came along, the better machining techniques allowed Toyota to build a motor with a copper/mhg from the factory. They knew back then that type of gasket would hold much more power and last alot longer.

The mhg of today just need precision to make sure they bond to the other mating surfaces. Like a few and me around here, I used in conjunction with a perfectly machined head and block, a copper gasket spray. It hardens and has high temperature ratings to 1500 degrees. It just gave me that much more of a seal. Metal to metal seals are just NOT GOOD. You must have some type of "glue" to negate the miniscule imperfections.

Its all relative. Hope that helps.

-Jonathan Mann
 

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
Mar 30, 2005
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jdub said:
To clarify spec torque (at least for the ARP Head Studs)...here's the spec sheet.

Very good work Jdub, I was hoping someone would scan the damn sheet. I was going from memory, and for some reason 86 and 106 are what I remember but then again my memory sux.
 

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
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I was also thinking that the "ex-nascar" machine shop dude is the kind of guy that will argue with you that the surface ra does not need to be any lower then 50 because they have 800 hp motors that don't need it and he has been doing this for years... I have heard that same story from every machine shop we have been to and you really have to insist on the smoothest surface they can make.
 

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
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OK I’m not totally insane, I went and checked ARPs website for torque specs and their general torque spec for the 190,000/200,000psi tensile strength 12mm stud is 86 ft/lbs w/moly, 109ft/lbs w/30 wt. That is general torque spec maybe supra specific is a little different, or maybe they changed the specs for 2005.

p202390_1.jpg
 
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