Bet youve never seen this.
- Thread starter chevyguyjoe
- Start date
For most applications near stock sure. Once things start getting modded better to have a mls but that requires a rebuild.
Would doing it right be machining the deck and head? Then dont you have compression to account for?supranewbie;1996544 said:
7M4EVR;1996549 said:
Yes it would.
I guess that would depend on how much has to be removed including any that has been removed in the past. Typically though you're not taking off (with one rebuild) enough to worry about. A decent machinist removes very little.
My comment was regarding the gasket itself. If compression has not become an issue a Toyota gasket is way sufficient. Or if, as hvy stated, you're not building a racecar.
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And im not going high performance. I still have stock ecu, stock injectors, stock fuel pump. Previous owner did a turbo back exhaust, and put a k&n filter on. Fast enough for me for now. If i wanted something crazy fast, im more of a v8 guy anyway. There is a 400 hp 350 sitting in my grandma's garage waiting to be put in something. I just need something to put it in.
chevyguyjoe;1995977 said:
So the block planes out pretty nicely? Without machining the block, composite is definitely safer than MLS. But it's no guarantee. If it failed between all cylinders, you probably have some deterioration? Your Toyota gasket will only save you from very small imperfections. I'm afraid you are going to put what limited funds you have into a cheap/temporary fix. You will likely soon be back where you started, minus what you pay for this band-aid. At the very least, clean your block as well as possible and use a straight edge every-which-way across the deck. A small flashlight will help you see variances. If there's a lot going on you should save your money. Also, the "shim" may have been in there for a reason. You should make sure your pistons don't protrude much more than 20 thou before you figure stock hg thickness is ok. Good luck.
^thats exactly what i was getting at but didnt think it would make a bit of difference to take the time to post it.
Ill clean it and check with a straight edge and feeler gauge, but i dont think i have a way to check the piston height. Perhaps straight edge on the pistons at TDC, and check under the straight edge with thick feeler gauge? Im AM worried about the reason the shim was there. I measured the head with a cheap caliper in a few places. it averaged 115.89 mm, but i dont know it i can trust that number with a $25 digital caliper. The biggest worry for me is clearances. High compression doesnt bother me. Im not turning the boost up, and i have access to VP fuel at work. Race gas always smells good anyway. (The previous statement was half joke. I would rather run pump gas, but if i cant, im not going to kill myself over it.)supranewbie;1996587 said:
Few things your saying scare me. First.. your broke and using borrowed garage space. To me, this means high stress/no fun. Then most of what your suggesting leans towards tossing it together, crossing your fingers and hoping its gonna hold.
Have you considered finding a storage spot for now or selling it? Most of the builds or problem threads I read that contain what your saying usually don't end well. With all that is wrong with the engine (possibly), youre gonna want to check it pretty closely before you put it together. If you had exhaust in your coolant, you normally also end up with coolant in the oil (easy enough to check if there's still oil in the engine). Coolant in the oil of course will haunt you later on with bearing issues... the fact that you have a fair amount of pitting (caused from exhaust gas mixing with coolant) makes me seriously doubt that the oil was clean while running. You can find another longblock, which is what I would do if in your shoes. But... that takes money. MK3's generally aren't easy on the pocket book.
Good luck though, try not to let the car go the way of the wrecker... we're running out of them!
Have you considered finding a storage spot for now or selling it? Most of the builds or problem threads I read that contain what your saying usually don't end well. With all that is wrong with the engine (possibly), youre gonna want to check it pretty closely before you put it together. If you had exhaust in your coolant, you normally also end up with coolant in the oil (easy enough to check if there's still oil in the engine). Coolant in the oil of course will haunt you later on with bearing issues... the fact that you have a fair amount of pitting (caused from exhaust gas mixing with coolant) makes me seriously doubt that the oil was clean while running. You can find another longblock, which is what I would do if in your shoes. But... that takes money. MK3's generally aren't easy on the pocket book.
Good luck though, try not to let the car go the way of the wrecker... we're running out of them!
This is true. Before i started the project, i was assuming it was all stock untouched, and would be a simple fix. Now that its apart, i want to get it back together enough to drive it. I have a different car for my daily driver, so if it fails again, i can leave it sit until i have money saved. Id rather not sell the car because they are rare in this area. Ive only seen 3 supras in my life. 2 mkiii's (including mine) and a mkii. The other mk3 is sitting in a field. As of a few hours ago, im seriously considering asking if its for sale, so i can pull the head off, and see if the situation is any better. I dont really have the money to do that though. Btw. here is a picture of my supra:Grandavi;1996625 said:
Purchased 15 months ago with 90,000 miles, now has 100,000.
OEM gasket, clean the block, mill the head and change that oil a handful of times.
I've always had good luck that way.
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I've always had good luck that way.
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That car is gorgeous! If the pic represents the car properly, that car deserves a proper build. It's extremely rare where I live to see one like that. I found an oem 7mgte pre 89 shortblock (crate and no longer available). That's what I would be dumping into that if it was mine.
Well i took the head to the machine shop and he did some measuring. On the mating surface of my head there are rings wore into the head around the cylinders from the gasket. He said it will be at least .010 in. to clean that up, and he measured the head, and found .017 in. has already been machined off. Has anyone had experience with the reconditioned head from O'Reilly? $548.99 with valves, springs, and cams, although there were no cam specs, and they didnt ask me if it was turbo or not.
Glad to see you did that...No experience with O'Reilly. FYI the cams are pretty much interchangeable, the intake cam differs a small amount. I have the NA intake cam in mine. I got mine from CCH out of Florida and was very happy with it. It came set to spec with a good clean finish, and ready to drop in. No matter where you get it from your going to want to re-measure it, and make sure you check clearances, dont just assume it's ready to go.
The other option is always just have your head machined, have your block decked and get the MLS headgasket to make up the difference. You can apply the money you were going to use to get a new head to that and you will be much happier with the outcome haha.
The other option is always just have your head machined, have your block decked and get the MLS headgasket to make up the difference. You can apply the money you were going to use to get a new head to that and you will be much happier with the outcome haha.
I was planning on checking clearances if i got that head. I don't feel i have the skills or tools to disassemble/ reassemble the short block. As i looked around in the machine shop at the various race engines sitting around in the various stages of completion i asked if he'd be interested in rebuilding my engine. He gave me a long version of "no". I don't blame him. He builds $30k dirt track engines, and race season is starting this month. It wouldn't make sense to take on a $3k job on an engine you aren't familiar with.
Well still. A stock car doesn't need a metal head gasket. So that's why they make the shims
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