best way to wire efans

[viper92086]

this thread isn't about if running efans is a good idea, i just want to know the best way to wire them

right now i have a dodge stratus dual fan setup, there is 2 positive wires that come off of it. by suppling 12v to a single wire you get a low speed setting (both fans are on), if you supply 12v to the other positive wire you'll get a high speed. now right now the fans are setup liek this but i am melting 30amp fuses (i'm pretty sure this is due to resistance in the shitty fuse holders). All wiring is 10 guage just like the factory stratus setup, and non of the wires get warm.

so my thoughts were to replace those shitty fuses with ANL fuses and holders OR wire it so that i can run a single fan on high as my low setting and then have the other fan come on high as the high setting and use ANL fuses with holders



BTW my current fuse setup is i beleive what they call blade type fuse? its the same thing we use for our factory fuses.

 

[jdub]

I would do this: Wire the low setting to come on at 70-75 deg C...the high setting at 90-95 deg C. Place the 1st temp sensor on the water neck (engine side of thermostat), the 2nd sensor on the radiator side. Have each actuate a relay with separate, fused power sources for the low/high fan wires.

Might want to determine how many amps those fans actually draw on both the low & high speeds.

 

[viper92086]

thanks jdub, its exactly setup how you said, except both thermoswitches for hi and low are on the waterneck where the stock aux fan sensor was. The lo fan is on a 80c switch and the high setting is on a 96c fan switch i dont really have a amp meter that will detect that high of amperage. i was reading some things on google where some other people had the same issue and it turned out to be the bad design of blade fuse holders.. many people said to use ANL fuses and holders, so i guess i'll give that a try

 

[jdub]

So both switches are in the thermostat housing (forward of the T-stat)?
What is the temp rating of the T-stat?

What is the power source for the 2 relays that supply power to each of the low/high legs of the fans?
Is the fuse(s) blowing only when the high speed actuates?

 

[viper92086]

yea both switches are on the side of the thermostat of the radiator. the relays are getting power directly from the battery terminals, and then the relays get switched with a negative switch from the switches. the fuses are melting then when the plastic melts i beleive they finally blow. (from the looks of it at least) but the weird thing is i've had these fans since the end of summer and ran them since then. i had the fuse melt 1 other time, so this is the second time... thus why i think there is some sort of resistance between the fuse holder and fuse causing it to melt.

but the answer to your question does the fuse blow when the high setting initates is no. i have a manal switch to force the fans on high and i can flip that switch over and over and nothing spectacular happens except for the fans spinnning up and down. no warm wires or anything... this is sucha weird problem..

 

[jdub]

So, you've removed the AC condensor fan?
Removing the stock, bottom sensor on the T-stat housing disables the condensor fan.

The problem with having both thermo switches on the radiator side of the T-stat is coolant doesn't flow past the stat till it opens...if the T-stat is rated at a higher temp, the low setting won't actuate till there is flow through the T-stat. The solution is not a low temp T-stat...you should be running a 190 deg F stat.

You want to measure how many amps these fan pull...both at low start and at high speed start. Resistance at the fuse holder could contribute, but if >30 amps are pulled at start, you will contine to have the problem.

 

[viper92086]

i have no condensor fan anyway... is there a unused port on the engine side of the thermostat? i dont have my car near me right now so i cant check. i dont think the fuses are melting at startup tho. it seems to be melting on a continous drive.... but even that doesnt make sense cause i drive 100 miles everyday to and from work and never have a consistent issue.. this is the second issue in a very long time.

i guess ill try the anl idea and if it works then ill leave it, but about this waterneck and temp sensor issue... if i dont have an open port how much effect will this have on my cooling system? i mean once the low fan kicks on it won't kick back off until the car is turned off.. i think the turn off temp is set at like 70c... at 80C thats just below idle enrichment. i never really thought about checking but i have LED's wired into my fan circuit so i know exactlt when the fan is on low and when its on high, but i never compared it to my greddy temp guage... isn't coolant always flowing through the radiator? then when it opens its considered full flow? i was always under that assumption that it flows very slow until the thermostat opens, then is full flow

 

[viper92086]

btw does anyone know when the stock aux fan temp switch turns on? (at what degrees)?


right now i'm using two honda ones (went to the junkyard and did some research online to find something that fit). the low temp is a mishimoto 80C tempswitch (its one of those upgrades made for hondas) and the high temp is a 96C temp switch from an accord...

 

[2JZ_MA70]

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...1&part=FLX%2D31163&N=700+115&autoview=sku

By far the most efficient way to wire it any electric fans. The unit also comes integrated with the 220 FAL as an option....

Pros: adjustable, variable speed, A/C compatible, Manual Override.

Cons: Expensive, requires drilling and taping, Additional wiring.

I have and it has worked great for me. If you go that way send me a TXT I will let you know how to wire it so it uses the factory wiring.

 

[jdub]

You would have to tap the round flat spot on the side of the water neck above the ECU coolant sensor. There is no flow through the rad when the T-stat is closed...you could remove the jiggle valve at the top of the T-stat, leaving a small hole for constant flow. This is a good mod to do regardless to prevent a pressure build-up behind the stat.

The aux fans come on at 107 deg C iirc.

 

[viper92086]

yup jiggle valve was removed , i'll look into tapping the waterneck.. im looking foward to taking it apart lol 107c... sheesh your motor is overheating by that point isnt it? good thing i swapped it out for something lower

2jz_ma70 - yea i was gonna use something like that but i wanted to keep things simple.. i hate adding all these complicated electronics when they aren't needed.. thus why i am using OEM temp switches.

my plans are, replace blade type fuse and holders for a ANL setup. then if this works out then i will try to drill and tap that other spot on the waterneck that jdubs suggested for the low temp switch thanks


btw does anyone think audio fuses are any better than ANL?

this is a ANL fuse for those who havent seen it

more!
i just learned that the stock dodge stratus uses MAXI fuses

not sure how this is going to help but all the other accessories are those miniblade fuses it seems like only the high draw stuff in that car uses MAXI fuses

 

[IJ.]

Solid state relays and PWM controlled by a standalone.

 

[2JZ_MA70]

Solid state relays and PWM controlled by a standalone.

that does work also... do you have some examples with the aem ems...?

 

[IJ.]

Never used an AEM but it works well on my MoTeC, just need a table Eng Temp to Duty cycle and you're set.

 

[jdub]

There is only 1 PWM output on an AEM iirc.

 

[IJ.]

Well you could have 1 PWM'd fan then

 

[jdub]

Or, a PWN'd fuel pump
(I know what I would pick...LOL)

 

[IJ.]

"MoTeC" there is a difference

 

[viper92086]

well because i dont have a standalone, i cant do what ever setup you guys suggested, but i just came back from fuse shopping and my choices seem to be either run a HUGE maxi blade style fuse 30amp, or run these bussman 30amp auto reset circuit breakers

does anyone know how the hell auto reset circuit breakers work?

 

[IJ.]

However you end up doing it I'd run 2 seperate circuits to the fans so if you lose one you have a redundant system and can still make it home.