Best clutch fan combo for 1JZ swapped Supra's?

Best fan setup for 1JZ

  • Electric (SPAL being best choice)

    Votes: 6 22.2%

  • LS400 clutch W/7MGTE blade

    Votes: 6 22.2%

  • 2JZGTE clutch W/2JZGE blade (may need to be trimmed)

    Votes: 15 55.6%
  • Total voters
    27
f00g00

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
After losing another 7MGTE blade attatched to an LS400 fan clutch ( 5th or 6th) I have finally decided to go with a 2JZ clutch and 2JZGE fan blade from the dealer which I can pickup tomorrow at 10 am. Did I mention the shroud too? Luckily with all that flying plastic my rad came out unscathed.
I wonder if any other rwd japanese cars have a blade that will work better than the toyota blades in the mkiii.
This is the first time trying the 2J fan clutch and the clutch just free spins cold or hot by hand one complete revolution. The radiator is boiling over from a short drive. I guess I need to reaearch for a heavy duty clutch non reverse rotation that will fit the 2J fan.
 
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mkiiichip

mkiiichip

New Member
Sep 10, 2007
1,434
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0
41
WI
kneedragger85;1942308 said:
2JZ clutch and NA fan:
Can be shimmed forward or trimmed to fit a stock radiator and shroud as well as a Mishimoto radiator and shroud if trimmed
Click to expand...

So.... how much clearance is needed between the front of the fan blade, and the fan shroud? My setup is,

2jzge fan blade trimmed to clear the waterneck
1jzgte clutch (soarer)

I am trying to fit a much thicker radiator this year, and it all fits, but there is maybe 6-7mm between the front of the blade, and the shroud. Is that enough?
 
kneedragger85

kneedragger85

New Member
Sep 9, 2008
363
0
0
Boulder, CO
mkiiichip;1943434 said:
So.... how much clearance is needed between the front of the fan blade, and the fan shroud? My setup is,

2jzge fan blade trimmed to clear the waterneck
1jzgte clutch (soarer)

I am trying to fit a much thicker radiator this year, and it all fits, but there is maybe 6-7mm between the front of the blade, and the shroud. Is that enough?
Click to expand...
You will want more clearance. I believe I had at least a half inch (12.7mm) with my dual core Mishimoto pictured below on my 2JZ which exploded after my clutch failed by locking up completely.

p1943589_1.jpg
 
yhatzee89

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
977
0
16
San Antonio, TX
Took the plunge and swapped out the electric fans for the NA-2J fan. What's the best way to tighten down they bolts?

Before:


During:


After:



Does this look a little close?
 
f00g00

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
Yeah thats a bit close at the waterneck. I clipped mine about an inch at the top and tapered it down about 3.5 inches. I am still getting overheating problems though so I am going to put a smaller fmic and a shroud.
 
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yhatzee89

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
977
0
16
San Antonio, TX
f00g00;1946893 said:
Yeah thats a bit close at the waterneck. I clipped mine about an inch at the top and tapered it down about 3.5 inches. I am still getting overheating problems though so I am going to put a smaller fmic and a shroud.
Click to expand...

So would you not suggest trimming it anymore?
 
f00g00

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
If the studs on the waterpump are long enough you have some room to shim it up a little closer to the rad but if you add a shroud you would have to trim some more. When you rev up the motor the blades of the fan will move away from the neck and then relax back when the revs slow down.
I put my shroud on last night and had to remove the curve on the front of the fan blade to clear the shroud by about a 1/2 inch and I have about a 1/2 inch at the water neck. I drove today for about 40 minutes with the A/C on and it didn't overheat.
 
yhatzee89

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
977
0
16
San Antonio, TX
So shim it out a little, got it
What kind of overheating problems are you having if he fan is working?
And how did you go about tightening the nuts on the fan?
 
becauseican

becauseican

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
1,451
0
0
Vancouver
www.bicperformance.com
The LS400 and 7m blade fit the best, but the LS fan clutch is designed to spin the other way when installed in the LS, and when put on the JZ it spins the other way which usually causes it to run fully locked up all the time, It also sounds like a transport truck.

I used the 2jz clutch and 2jzge fan blade, the blades needs a bit of trimming to clear the water neck but doable, I just traced a 2" diameter round half circle on the outer rear tips then trimmed it with a zip disk and sander to finish it off.

I went through a few electric fan setups, and the SPAL fans were by far the best setup. In the end I stuck with the 2jzge Fan blade and clutch and never had any cooling issues ever again.
 
f00g00

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
yhatzee89;1947501 said:
So shim it out a little, got it
What kind of overheating problems are you having if he fan is working?
And how did you go about tightening the nuts on the fan?
Click to expand...
The overheating problems with the Koyo oem were the coolant would fill the overflow bottle and overflow out of that. When the car cooled down the vacuum created would draw the overflow bottle back in the rad but the level would be down. The temps would be running in the 3/4 range on the stock gauge which I know isn't accurate.
I installed my old Koyo aluminum rad that has about 7 of the front tubes soldered shut from a previous fan blade explosion, with the trimmed blade, shroud and undercover and it isn't overheating and very little overflow which is normal.
For tightening I use a 12 MM wrench one at a time. I still have the longer studs on the water pump so I have to put all the nuts on to start and I use a screwdriver under any of the studs to rotate the pump when the nuts are still loose. I push down on the belt to hold the pump in place to get the nuts a little tighter once they are all snug and the pump turns with the wrench tightening each one a little more.
 
f00g00

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
Well the rad worked fine on my previous 1J, this new engine runs hotter. The ECU that came with it and wires and intake manifold show it was from an early chaser. When I get my single setup I am going oil cooled only on the turbo which I am sure will help the cooling system out and perhaps I will be able to run the smaller Koyo again.
On the drive to work today the temp was 115 with a hot wind blowing and the temp was creeping up in slow traffic all the way to 3/4 so most of the drive was without ac.
 
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