ARP Head Bolt Issue. Has anyone else experienced this?

[Heavy D]

I torqued my ARP Head bolts to 85 ft lb's with the stock composite head gasket.. Cleaned the block surface and head surface and checked for warpage on the head with a straight edge and feeler gauges, everything was in spec so it was not needed to get machine work done. I torqued them in a outer star pattern and burped the cooling system, flushed it and then did it again due to there was some oil in the water. Car is running great and not loosing any coolant/overheating, nor smoking.

i did the same thing, and the gasket lasted for a month, but now every thing is back to normal now, no problems and i had the arp at 80lbs.

also what do you guys recommend the ARP bolts TQ to with the stock toyota gasket?

 

[IJ.]

It has nothing to do with the gasket type it's based on the spec for the fasteners......

 

[MikesFixedRoof]

Just reuse the ARP's you have...

The "wrong" was for the dude that said stock bolts are TTY they're not.

Gotcha. Thanks.

 

[grimreaper]

I would advise to always have the head decked or at the very least have a machine shop check the flatness. Even if using a composite. The framing square you have from home depot isnt quite going to cut it! You can add one to your tool set for a cool $100. Look up FORD and search some tsb's for their 6.0L HG repairs. The precision they specify even states to replace the straight edge if nicked or stored incorrectly. (usually because the cost to make it *perfectly* straight again is more then the tool costs.)

 

[MikesFixedRoof]

I would advise to always have the head decked or at the very least have a machine shop check the flatness. Even if using a composite. The framing square you have from home depot isnt quite going to cut it! You can add one to your tool set for a cool $100. Look up FORD and search some tsb's for their 6.0L HG repairs. The precision they specify even states to replace the straight edge if nicked or stored incorrectly. (usually because the cost to make it *perfectly* straight again is more then the tool costs.)

Yea, I'll definitely cosign that. Always at the very least have a shop check the head for flatness. Doing all that work without having it checked is taking a big risk.

 

[juncboi]

I didn't know that it was good practice to clean out the threads either. Probably because I'm not a mechanic and just following a book. Glad I read this thread as I am about to torque my head and block together when the ARP's get here.