ARP Head Bolt Issue. Has anyone else experienced this?
- Thread starter MikesFixedRoof
- Start date
i have had a BHG that leak coolant out of the motor instead of going in, i just kept adding coolant, but it was nothing major, it was on a old chevy cavilier
Well, I'm still trying to decide how I should deal with it this time around. Do I just pull it apart, get a toyota gasket, throw it back together? Or should I find a local shop that works on 7Ms to do it? :/ Just not sure yet.
fwiw, I just pulled mine apart for the same reason, overheating up then down ect. No blown headgasket, at least not visibly. there are no "steam cleaned" pistons or anything but my coolant did fail the exhaust gas test and was spitting coolant after driving. I burped it, replaced the therm. even installed the tee fitting at the heater hose in the back to fill it from the top and burp it that way. only thing I can figure now is must have been a one way leak lol.
Jesus man, listen we get people like you all the time, they want a fast fix a fast fix WILL NOT fix it in the long run, i know its your DD, but it wont be a DD till you at least try to do it right, 1st what you need to do is fork over the cash to have your head rebuild, ( it needs it anyway) they will also make sure its flat, while your head is being rebuilt clean the block drain the oil and replace all the hoses, once you do that buy new bolts and a new OEM gasket and gasket set, when you have everything back together put the bolts to 85tp.
after 600 miles / or 6 or 7 heat cycles re tq them back to 85.
stop fucking short cutting.
after 600 miles / or 6 or 7 heat cycles re tq them back to 85.
stop fucking short cutting.
no need to get hostile. just because someone doesn't know doesn't mean they are short cutting. 7m's are very particular and don't have a lot of slop when it comes to specs and working on them.
just fyi, anytime i suspect a gasket issue i use the napa block tester.
just fyi, anytime i suspect a gasket issue i use the napa block tester.
What would count as a heat cycle? My comute to work is about 10 miles. So round trip, is that 2 heat cycles? Just wondering since I'm about to finish my BHG repair.
Ok. So first start after i'm done i'll let it run, get warm, set timing and test drive it. That would be 1. Then a few drives to work until I hit about 5-6 cycles. Let it sit over night and retourqe to the ARP studs to 90 ft pounds, like the little paper said. Any other things I should do. I guess I will change oil again when I do this. Should I change filters too?
ATL88Supra;1567060 said:
Maybe instead of coming off like a total dick you should have taken the time to read my other posts/threads. Then you would know that I just had the head rebuilt, and put new hoses in already. You don't fucking know me, so don't act like you do. Anyone who does will tell you I'm far from a shortcutter. Especially when it comes to my car. I believed I was doing the best job on my car that my budget would allow. Next time you want to help, get the facts straight & leave out the asshole comments. Thanks.
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Ok I called a couple of shops near me that work on our cars to get an estimate on the hg job. The first shop, was recommended by a SM member. Said 600 plus the cost of parts (new toyota gasket) told me I need new bolts too. Is that true? I've heard of people reusing arp bolts. Second shop told me 650 to change it. Said some things I didn't 100% agree with though. Things like putting a mhg and arp studs on without resurfacing or decking the block. I'm 99% sure that's a no no, isn't it?
Block and head need to be resurfaced for a mhg. Dont go there.
Both arp and stock are reusable.
I can get the head off in 3 hours so i dont see why you cant in a day. Then take the head to get pressure checked and machined(around 60 for both) which might take them a day. Then spend another putting it back together and flush out the oil good.
Saves you money and you learn.
If not 600-650 is a good price for a head gasket job. Most good shops usually charge upwards of 1k.
Both arp and stock are reusable.
I can get the head off in 3 hours so i dont see why you cant in a day. Then take the head to get pressure checked and machined(around 60 for both) which might take them a day. Then spend another putting it back together and flush out the oil good.
Saves you money and you learn.
If not 600-650 is a good price for a head gasket job. Most good shops usually charge upwards of 1k.
ARP's are not torque to yield so you can reuse them. Stock Head bolts are torque to yield so you cannot reuse them.
I torqued my ARP Head bolts to 85 ft lb's with the stock composite head gasket.. Cleaned the block surface and head surface and checked for warpage on the head with a straight edge and feeler gauges, everything was in spec so it was not needed to get machine work done. I torqued them in a outer star pattern and burped the cooling system, flushed it and then did it again due to there was some oil in the water. Car is running great and not loosing any coolant/overheating, nor smoking.
hvyman;1568517 said:
Yea that's what I thought. I mean I did it the first time so taking it apart is no issue for me. I guess Im just paranoid about screwing something up again. Plus I really don't have the space to do it at my house- other than in the street :/ . Yea I thought 600 was pretty good too. And I like that another SM member reccomended the place.
---------- Post added at 07:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 AM ----------
IJ.;1568807 said:
Hmmm. But wait if my bolts have already gone through heat expansion, wouldn't it then be better in theory to reuse them? If I get new bolts Should I still use the arp grease & 75ftlb torque spec?
Just reuse the ARP's you have...
The "wrong" was for the dude that said stock bolts are TTY they're not.
The "wrong" was for the dude that said stock bolts are TTY they're not.