ARP Bolts

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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sure, the spec is always right, look at the factory headbolt spec for the 7M :rolleyes:

and I'm not wanting experiences of "well I torqued mine to this" I want "I torqued mine to this and it still blew"

I'd also want to know if they did the HG job right.

Not taking sides, never said I was, rather have a good converstaion isntead of people going ::fundy::

how is ANYONE to learn when all they get is the attitude of "you're wrong and an idiot for posting"
 

jdub

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Feb 10, 2006
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Poodles said:
sure, the spec is always right, look at the factory headbolt spec for the 7M :rolleyes:


Nice try...I do believe ARP is in the fastener business exclusively.

So, if you didn't want other's experiences...what exactly is it you do want?

This discussion started with you saying you doubted the high HP guys torqued head bolts/studs to ARP spec.

Poodles said:
gonna have to go dig out my box and have a look see for this one...
I'd like to hear from the high HP guys on this though as I doubt they torque their studs to such a low spec...

What's your point?
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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my box didn't have such a guide, no sheet of paper inside and the chart on the back was the max torque spec and not to be used as application specific

can't find the box (it's in storage) but I had to go online to find out what to torque them to, everyone said 85.

never said it was FINE to do such a thing, I was more CURIOUS and having a GOOD amount of info for someone doing it for the first time (or doing it again) isn't a bad thing. I got steered the wrong way and would like to see a good thread on WHY people just throw numbers out of their ass.

Sorry I thought that was the recommended spec given the replys I got all said 85...
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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certainly got derailed, but having some good info for noobs (old and new) is what I care about.

Keep in mind I follow the torque spec on everything, and I've asked the torque spec on things I can't find (like the headstuds). I wouldn't think so many people would steer me wrong :3d_frown: (granted it was on SF)
 

jdub

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slidebabyslide said:
Poor red dog, he made the tread.

He got the question answered long ago ;)
Besides, IJ's pics of that cross sectioned head was well worth it.

Well, like I said, 85 ft/lbs is not that big a deal...heck, your wrench could be off that much if you have not had it calibrated lately. I just don't want the wrong info to be perpetrated via word of mouth. There really is enough of that going on ;)
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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yeah, exactly why I was led astray...

brand new craftsman torque wrench (I own 2, one's in inch pounds to do the valve cover bolts and other things), and I always put em back to the lowest setting before storing. I gotta go in and retorque here anyways as it's been over 500 miles...
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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doesn't look like much porting could be done beside gasket matching, and of course the bowl and cutting the valve guide down...

got any before and after pics of your head before and after the port work IJ?
 

IJ.

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Poodles: There's some pics around somewhere I'll see if I can find em, I had them take 2>3mm for the length of each port total keeping the same shape as stock and opening up the Valve seat/throat to suit the +1mm Ferrea valves.

1 Mistake I made was using a Radius seat valve job (think 5 angle+) this gave narrow seats and didn't last too long before closing down the clearences as LPG had no lubricating properties.

Back to a traditional 3 angle job with 1.5mm wide seats.