ARP Bolts

slidebabyslide

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Dec 17, 2006
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Poodles said:
yes, but ARP also says that their specs are used as a guide, not over the stock setting...

I did 85... but I have studs...

j/k
but in a more serious note..... arp says there torque chart is just a guide the chart thats in back of the box.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46356
Don't over torque them , or the same thing that happen to me might happen to you.
just torqued them all to 75 lbs and add some off that moly that came with them.
 
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jdub

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Poodles said:
yes, but ARP also says that their specs are used as a guide, not over the stock setting...

I did 85... but I have studs...


Really? And where does it say that it ok to torque to whatever you want?

You're either pulling that comment out of your arse, or you need to work on reading comprehension. The spec sheet is very specific:

Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence, but do not use the engine manufacturer torque specs.

Very specific torque values follow this statement...if the box says the values are "a guide", the meaning is the value on ARP spec sheets are THE GUIDE to be used for installation.

Also, per ARP's tech section:

It is important to note that in order for a fastener to function properly it must be “stretched” a specific amount. The material’s ability to “rebound” like a spring is what provides the clamping force. You should know that different materials react differently to these conditions, and ARP engineers have designed each fastener to operate within specific ranges.

On the other hand, if a fastener is over torqued and becomes stretched too much – you have exceeded the yield strength and it’s ruined. If the fastener is longer than manufactured – even if it is only .001,˝ it is in a partially failed condition. Therefore, ARP has engineered its fasteners with the ductility to stretch a given amount and rebound for proper clamping.

Heat, primarily in aluminum, is another problem area. Because the thermal expansion rate of aluminum is far greater than that of steel it is possible to stretch a fastener beyond yield as the aluminum expands under heat. An effective way of counteracting material expansion is through producing a more flexible bolt.

Not over torquing a head bolt/stud is even more important on an aluminum head like the 7M. The greater thermal expansion of aluminum puts more stress on the fastener as is...that is why ARP limits torque on 7M head bolts to 75 ft/lbs.

I'm not trying to start a flame war with you, but guys on this forum really need to stop "selectively interpreting" specifications like this based on what they have done as a result of "my buddy told me". You over torqued your studs plain and simple...not by much...85 ft/lbs is likely not a big deal. But it's still wrong and the next guy may think going to 90 ft/lbs is ok (a little extra for "insurance") and post what he did. Then the next guy goes to 95 ft/lbs for the same reason...next thing you know the misinformation has caused the bolt to fail for someone because they read this forum and not the sheet.

Post the correct info, or don't post at all.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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gonna have to go dig out my box and have a look see for this one...
I'd like to hear from the high HP guys on this though as I doubt they torque their studs to such a low spec...
 

jdub

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Poodles said:
I'd like to hear from the high HP guys on this though as I doubt they torque their studs to such a low spec...


And so what if they do torque higher? Anyone that exceeds the specs listed on the sheet is over torquing the studs/bolts...period. Again, something ARP specifically warns against doing...sorry, but I'll trust the guys that make the studs/bolts over hearsay (or your opinion) anytime.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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true, but blowing headgaskets because it's not torqued enough is an issue

not my opinion, I want to hear more info and if people have had issues with lifting the head, ect...

don't want flames, just want good info from people's experiences


What would you do if you didn't want to overtorque but the head was lifting? I don't see any stronger studs for the 7M from ARP, so what does someone like mibrum and his 1k+ hp 7M dragster do?

I know there are upgrades for the 2J guys...
 

starscream5000

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Aug 23, 2006
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You straight up mangled that head Ian!

Poodles said:
true, but blowing headgaskets because it's not torqued enough is an issue

not my opinion, I want to hear more info and if people have had issues with lifting the head, ect...

don't want flames, just want good info from people's experiences

What would you do if you didn't want to overtorque but the head was lifting? I don't see any stronger studs for the 7M from ARP, so what does someone like mibrum and his 1k+ hp 7M dragster do?

I know there are upgrades for the 2J guys...


So you're trusting someone who says, "wells I torqued to XXX amount of ft/lbs and it's working for me" over the people who have designed the bolt/stud, tested and broken them many times to determine how tight is safe with this specific bolt? C'mon man give us break here.

Like someone mentioned earlier, drag engines are frequently torn down and rebuilt. Unless this is your intention, to turn this engine into a drag only motor, then you would be best off to do it right the first time, torque it to the recommended specs, and leave it that way. ;)
 

suprarich

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Nov 9, 2005
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Poodles said:
What would you do if you didn't want to overtorque but the head was lifting? I don't see any stronger studs for the 7M from ARP, so what does someone like mibrum and his 1k+ hp 7M dragster do?

If I recall correctly, Gary is still using ARP head BOLTS torqued to arp specs on his 1300hp 7m. The top end is not rebuilt as often as you think.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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just curious and want more info...sadly I'm seeing less info and more flaming these days...

I can see flaming a noob that asked the same queston for the millionth time, but why not a discussion on something as critical as this?
 

jdub

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Feb 10, 2006
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Poodles said:
just curious and want more info...sadly I'm seeing less info and more flaming these days...

I can see flaming a noob that asked the same queston for the millionth time, but why not a discussion on something as critical as this?


How about realizing that over torquing head bolts/studs is not something you want to do. You asked to hear form some high HP guys and you got what you wished for. Just because none of them agree with your position means you're getting flamed...but, it does appear you have difficulty understanding the engineering behind why you do or do not do certain things on a motor. Besides, even a noob will listen when confronted with the facts ;)