I would say 75% of the 7m cams I have seen in used engines have looked like that. The cams in my own engine look like that. I have yet to see a 7m cam seize up in a head.
Are my cams F'd? Can they be used? *pics*
- Thread starter Reign_Maker
- Start date
all of them are like that.. low oil pressure owns the 7m..
a 270-280 durration with 8-9mm lift is where tis at..
a 270-280 durration with 8-9mm lift is where tis at..
I have three sets of cams here, and they all look like that. They all work fine too.
Just to add a bit more reassurance.
Just to add a bit more reassurance.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I'm jumping on the "that's fine" bandwagon.
Seen worse ones working just fine with no problems.
I would not file my cam caps to reduce ID either. What I did was coat the ID of the cam buckets/caps with Molydisulfied and left the cams alone. (Tried coating a set of cams, did not get all the abrasive out of the oil passeges, and trashed an engine in under 15 min... Sucks, but it was an experiment in any case. An expensive experiment..)
My engine currently has coated cam saddles/caps on the ID or "bearing" surfaces. All the bearings are coated as well, but none of the cam or crank journals are coated this time around. My theory was to use the coating to restore as much of the ID as possible, and let the bearing journals "machine" the coatings where needed to proper specs.
So, in short, just use those cams, or do whatever Schnider reccomends.
BTW, with the coatings, I think it has improved my gas mileage over an uncoated motor. With the stroker, and larger displacement, my 7M is getting better mileage than ever. (I don't have the figures around anymore, but there are posts about coming back from Vegas this past year, and getting excellent mileage even at 80 to 100mph speeds.)
Seen worse ones working just fine with no problems.
I would not file my cam caps to reduce ID either. What I did was coat the ID of the cam buckets/caps with Molydisulfied and left the cams alone. (Tried coating a set of cams, did not get all the abrasive out of the oil passeges, and trashed an engine in under 15 min... Sucks, but it was an experiment in any case. An expensive experiment..)
My engine currently has coated cam saddles/caps on the ID or "bearing" surfaces. All the bearings are coated as well, but none of the cam or crank journals are coated this time around. My theory was to use the coating to restore as much of the ID as possible, and let the bearing journals "machine" the coatings where needed to proper specs.
So, in short, just use those cams, or do whatever Schnider reccomends.
BTW, with the coatings, I think it has improved my gas mileage over an uncoated motor. With the stroker, and larger displacement, my 7M is getting better mileage than ever. (I don't have the figures around anymore, but there are posts about coming back from Vegas this past year, and getting excellent mileage even at 80 to 100mph speeds.)
Jake: LOL !
In hindsight I should have gone bigger on the cams as the 7M doesn't misbehave at all and the low dow torque covers them nicely!
In hindsight I should have gone bigger on the cams as the 7M doesn't misbehave at all and the low dow torque covers them nicely!
Jake, have you sent your cams off to schnieder? I call them today, tlked to Jerry,....All i can say i was VERY disapointed in them or him, as he offered me no real help.
Duane said he treated him the same way!
Look like i will have to source cams somewheres else.
Dave
Duane said he treated him the same way!
Look like i will have to source cams somewheres else.
Dave
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
IJ, what was the grind on your cams BTW? (IF you were to go larger, where would you go to in other words....)
I understand this requires shimless buckets, but this is something I've thought about during the rebuild. I have the BBC springs, and the 1mm OS valves, but kept the stock cams and shims/buckets for now.
Even if we just stayed with pretty much a stock duration and timing, getting a few more mm of lift would improve flow IMHO. (More flow, should mean more power right?)
I understand this requires shimless buckets, but this is something I've thought about during the rebuild. I have the BBC springs, and the 1mm OS valves, but kept the stock cams and shims/buckets for now.
Even if we just stayed with pretty much a stock duration and timing, getting a few more mm of lift would improve flow IMHO. (More flow, should mean more power right?)
Greg: Mine are .351"/9mm lift 280 degrees duration 226@50thou
I would possibly go to 10mm lift 290/300 degrees if I were to do it again as the power flattens out around the 6500 mark.
I still have a LOT of work to do with timing both Ignition and Cam on the dyno but this won't happen until I get the Fuel system squared away 100%.
I've been discussing this in PM with Jake and this is the anology I used>
In our motors the valve size will always be the limiting factor to HP.
The Cams also play a part here probably more so as our heads can flow 1000hp.
What happens is imagine a tap hooked to a fire hose the limiting factor is the tap nozzle but if you only open the tap a little it's the limiting factor.
Fire hose = Turbo
tap nozzle = valve
tap handle = cams
I would possibly go to 10mm lift 290/300 degrees if I were to do it again as the power flattens out around the 6500 mark.
I still have a LOT of work to do with timing both Ignition and Cam on the dyno but this won't happen until I get the Fuel system squared away 100%.
I've been discussing this in PM with Jake and this is the anology I used>
In our motors the valve size will always be the limiting factor to HP.
The Cams also play a part here probably more so as our heads can flow 1000hp.
What happens is imagine a tap hooked to a fire hose the limiting factor is the tap nozzle but if you only open the tap a little it's the limiting factor.
Fire hose = Turbo
tap nozzle = valve
tap handle = cams
I just shot them an email, see what they recommend... IJ has me all kind of confused and worried, I might have to bore out my pistons to make clearance for the 9.5mm lift, lol... CRAZY! I should've just bought a Titan built head and been done with it... All I know is anything that'll help this GT4067R spool faster and pull harder to red line, then, it'll be worth the money... I just have a feeling that a 290 duration with a 9.5mm lift is going to be a custom piece...
Jake: LOL as I said there needs to be a serious mockup and measure session done on your motor to get it right it's NOT going to be a bolt together and go sort of thing!
This is a "built" motor as opposed to an "assembled" one!
"Speed Costs How Fast Do You Want To Go"
This is a "built" motor as opposed to an "assembled" one!
"Speed Costs How Fast Do You Want To Go"
tissimo said:
Cams will help if you're gettin that exhaust gas out fast enough...
Oh yeah, I forgot you picked up that other Supra... :icon_razz
IJ: I see you sitting on a moutain top with a long grey beard giving advice to those people who wander up there seeking Supra advice... lol...
cams shift around the powerband.. a bigger cam will make the engine less efficient at lower rpms and so the spool will be a little slower.. but the top end will more then make up for it.Reign_Maker said:
What are you using for tunning? Are you going to increase the rev limiter? If not I would say a 272/264 combo or straight 264s would be around what youd be looking for.. if your going for higher rpms 272-280s should be fine.. i dont think you'd be spinning the motor above 7500 or so? but i could be wrong? 290 is a lot of cam.. i think it will move it too high..
Tiss: I'm basing my suggestion on my experiences with the 351"/9mm lift 280 degrees duration 226@50thou set I'm using now.
Assymetric might give some benfits but I'm not convinced yet.
Assymetric might give some benfits but I'm not convinced yet.