figgie said:Those number ar4e inflated
they say 2500 cfm what they don;t say is the pressure.
figgie said:Those number ar4e inflated
they say 2500 cfm what they don;t say is the pressure.
bigaaron said:Exactly, I'm not sure where FAL gets their numbers at but the SPAL dual fans pull WAY more air. It's not even close. FAL is also not rated for 100% duty cycle. They will fail prematurely if hooked up to ignition without a thermostatic switch or fan controller. I have a FAL dual fan in my garage with a burned out motor if you don't believe me. The dual 12" SPAL fan pulls enough air to be used on rear mounted radiators in off-road racing trucks with 750hp na engines.
It does not matter because electric fans are a subject where people just don't take good advice. We'll let them lean it the hard way, right IJ? :icon_wink
NashMan said:i think you got factory fart fan there
you chould do what i did and changed the magnets and bush in the fan
i sup on my cooling fan funny eh push way more air then t did befor and it was rated at 2000 some thing
This in incorrect, so the rest of the point is too. A shroud is so you pull air over the entire surface area of the radiator. Distance has nothing to do with it. If you haven't noticed, FWD factory cars also use a shroud.An electrical fan can be mounted right next to the radiator with very little clearance between shroud and blade and blade and core without fear of damage to the radiator. The mechanical fan however must be mounted further away from the core with significant clearance around the shroud to compensate for movement of the engine during hard acceleration and deceleration.
This clearance requirement significantly lowers the efficiency of the fan and its ability to move air through the radiator. As a result an electrical fan need not move as much air as a mechanical fan in order to move the same amount of air through the radiator.
Nick M said:This in incorrect, so the rest of the point is too. A shroud is so you pull air over the entire surface area of the radiator. Distance has nothing to do with it. If you haven't noticed, FWD factory cars also use a shroud.
That simply isn't true.
You can put a fanclutch right up to the radiator also without it hitting the radiator.
The only time I have seen a fan ruin a radiator was when the water pump came uncunted. That has nothing to do with the topic.That is like driving a RHD car in the US becuase somebody might crash into you on the LH side and hurt you. I have seen my fair share of running engines.ToyoHabu said:Have you seen the amount engines move in an engine bay? I have and I have seen the carnage done to radiators by fans mounted to close to the radiator.
That is true but the OEM shroud has little to do with CFM, and everything to do with surface area. With out a shroud, you only pull air directly where the fan is. If it was just CFM, it would be much cheaper to apply more current to the electric motor, or a more viscous fluid in the clutch. It wouldn't require money on R&D.I know the shroud does give better flow to any type of fan. The shroud allows the fan to affect a greater disk of air effectively increasing the diameter of the fan. However the efficiency of a shrouded fan is very dependent on the edge clearance.
I don't think shrouds were invented in 1998.:nono: Perhaps they invented a new shape of shroud?“THE AERODYNAMIC SHROUD (AN MSU INVENTION)
The aerodynamic shroud, shown schematically in Fig. 10 and described by Foss (1998) and Foss and Morris (1999),An electric fan will always have closer tolerances than a fan mounted separately from its shroud.
Keep after it. $$$ is waiting.give me some credit I did pass fluid dynamics the first go around:biglaugh: unlike calculus C :cry:
Done finished and making plenty of $$$ :naughty:Nick M said:Keep after it. $$$ is waiting.