Are electric fans worth it?

robeats91t

237lbs. of Ballast
Jun 4, 2005
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Tampa, FL
I'll agree that the performance of most e-fans pales in comparison to the mechanical setup, so for a highly modded engine or a car in a hot climate, the mechanical is the best choice.

But I went with e-fans. Why would I be so daft as to install something that would undoubtedly decrease the cooling system's effectiveness?

Many reasons, actually. First, my fan shroud looks like swiss cheese. Not a great reason to ditch the whole stock setup I know, but it's what initially got the ball rolling.

These are the reasons I thought my car would be a good candidate for e-fans:

1. I'm an eternal tinkerer. I have the FAL dual fan setup with the SPAL fan controller that Aaron pictured above. Adjustable cut-on points for half-speed and full speed operation. More buttons and settings! Plus it was a great reason to get that nice GReddy water temp gauge.

I know, still a pretty weak argument for e-fans. Allow me to continue:

2. My cooling system is practically brand new. New water pump less than 30k ago, new stock size radiator less than 50k ago, and all new Toyota hoses. Oh, and the engine received a new OEM HG, ARP bolts to 90ft/lbs less than 12k ago.

3. Unfortunately, stop and go traffic is a big part of the car's life. I don't autocross or drag race or take the engine to redline. I can count on one hand the number of times the car's seen redline while in my possession; the car is driven well within its limits 97% of the time. Even when I do get to goose it, it's usually followed by lengthy periods of stop and go. It's nice to know that the fans can run 100% while the car's idling along, stuck in awful 40* heat.

4. Expanding upon my initial fan shroud reason, I wanted to clean up the engine bay. The low profile FAL fans cleared out a ton of space in front of the engine. I also plan on upgrading to a larger radiator with greater cooling capacity, and I figured the lower profile e-fans will help give a little more clearance for my fat arms.

My results have been promising so far. I'm in Florida, and my stock temp gauge has never moved past the normal operating temp position since I changed out fans. My GReddy gauge, its sensor mounted in the thermostat housing, has seen temps as high as 110*C--A/C on on the highway on a 35*C (95*F) day--but is usually in the ballpark of 88-90*C. Next time I play under the hood, I may put the stock fan/clutch back on to do a comparison. And I'll probably do it again once I get a fatter radiator.

In all I've been satisfied with my e-fan setup, but I do not think that it's the setup for everyone. If the fan shroud isn't well-sealed against the radiator (or lacks a shroud altoghether) or the fans don't move enough air, performance will be dodgy. Also, the driver and passengers risk being stranded if the e-fans blow a fuse or experience a fan motor failure. However, in perspective, I have similar concerns of the mechanical fan clutch failing after 15 years and 150k miles of operation.

Hope this helps, and inform me please if any of my reasoning is flawed.
 
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born2drv

Banned
Nov 1, 2005
1,199
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Burbank, CA
If you're going electric make sure you don't do it half ass, get the best components of everything. I've heard of a lot of people on here that have done it and regretted it, or had it run slightly warmer.

I just replaced my fan blade and shroud new from the dealer last week, didn't want any drama, this car has enough drama as it is LOL.
 

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
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Victoria BC
here is another one did you know your fan only cools wheil sitting in traffic not wheil you are driveing

oh yae eletrick fan is far saperor wheil sitting in traffic then clutch cause remmber the fan only truning 650 rpms i know the size of the fan matter as well but still does nto compare to tuned fan that just thiner

plus as well on old rad is it will ahve a dead zone this is whats called pluged up area were it is the coldest aka where your fan is


plus if you are all out scared of it over heating run the fan full time this way ti saves money btu take little bit longer for the car to warm up

so wheil the car is warming up go get some good old morning sex form the wife or gf


cheer clutch fan suck ................................

same with eletrical water pumps move water faster less chance for it to heat up but not to fast or the heat tranfers form the block wonte happen as good
 

CPT Furious

Now MAJ FURY!
Mar 30, 2005
607
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KDOV
Here are my observations from using both methods...your results may vary:

First off, I have a properly working cooling system so I am not trying to cover anything up by using an electric fan. I also have the Fluidyne Al radiatior which is actually quite nice in this climate and a 180 degree thermostat with the stock pressure cap.

1. With the FAL BM-150 (2800 cfm so the site says) and a 180 degree thermostat and a true water temp gauge mounted directly behind the thermostat (used the blank that was there), my temps never got above 185 degrees even in stop and go traffic. The engine did seem to rev a little happier without the drag of the clutch fan, but see below for more details.

The problem I did notice with this setup, however, was that the A/C wouldn't cool as well as with the clutch fan. Not really a problem in the winter, but for the summer, I'm an old guy and I like the A/C.

2. Put the clutch fan back on with the shroud and the temps stay the same, but the A/C now blows colder in stop and go traffic. I tried to really pay attention to how the engine revved immediately after putting the clutch fan back on, and I must say that it is a pretty small difference.

For me, I am going to use the clutch in the summer months and back to the electric in the winter months. Why? Because like other people, I always have to tinker!

And yes, IJ, you are right!
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
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indiucky
there are a lot more things to the cooling system than the fans. one important thing is the water temp gauge. the stock sucks. my aftermarket would make 40F swings and the stock wouldnt even flicker. i think its hard to draw conclusions from how effective something is or isnt w/o having the proper equipment to even know how the temp is effected. anyone know what the stock system temp is? its actually quite scary.

that aside, i would highly recommend NOT using the FAL control box. ive seen many issues with it. melted wires, fire, and just straight out failure.
 

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
4,940
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Victoria BC
hummmmmmm ac not going as cold i wounder why mabye the clutch fan dame i am out of idea on this one


mabye the drag form the clutch fan cause the ac pump not spint eh way it used too ???????????????


you sure you not getting hot and cold flashes you said you were old lol

j/k
 

Joel W.

Just A Jedi
Nov 7, 2005
1,561
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Washington
It's about moving air, which means transfering heat. The more air
you move, the more heat is transfered.

I think a 10 bladed fan clutch with a shroud, powered by a 7m will move more air than any electric fan ever could reliably. It is also pulling air through not only the radiator but the AC condenser, oil cooler and the intercooler. (for the auto guys, add a tranny cooler)

That is a lot of resistance for an electric to try and pull air through..IMO
 

Illusive MA70

New Member
Sep 4, 2005
17
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Las Vegas
now that we have succesfully argued the pros and cons for about 5 pages, maybe someone can point me in the right direction as far as proper installation of electric fans. I live in Las Vegas and we all know it is hotter than hell out here. another thing I read here was having the fans running all the time, like in winter, can over cool the car? I thought thats why vehicles were equipped with thermostats, to regulate the flow and exchange of heat via water.
 

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
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www.driftmotion.com
5 pages? Change your "posts per page" setting to 40, i'm still on the first page :biglaugh:

Use a Spal fan controller with heavy gauge wire with good connectors. Zip tie all the wiring so it does not move around. Make a good battery connection with a new battery terminal if needed.

Funny that after hearing all the cons you still want to run electric fans in one of the hottest places in the US.
 

robeats91t

237lbs. of Ballast
Jun 4, 2005
210
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Tampa, FL
Honestly, if I end up doing it over again with a different supra, I will go for a thicker core aluminum radiator first. For the price of the FAL dual fans, SPAL fan controller and the GReddy 52mm Temp Gauge, I could have easily gotten a nice thick aluminum radiator.
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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Joel W. said:
It's about moving air, which means transfering heat. The more air
you move, the more heat is transfered.

I think a 10 bladed fan clutch with a shroud, powered by a 7m will move more air than any electric fan ever could reliably. It is also pulling air through not only the radiator but the AC condenser, oil cooler and the intercooler. (for the auto guys, add a tranny cooler)

That is a lot of resistance for an electric to try and pull air through..IMO

you forgot to qualify your statement ;)

at anything but idle you are correct that the stock fans moves mass quanity of air except that it still does not move more air than the car moving through the air ;)

at idle you are quite incorrect. At idle the electric fans move more air than the stock clutch based setup. Since the fan is turning a bit faster than the crank.

Now why would it overheat in autocross? Simple, Vehicle speed is not enough to help while the rpm of the clutched fan can be around 5000-6000 rpm. Basically at the highest airflow the stock fan can pull.
 

Joel W.

Just A Jedi
Nov 7, 2005
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Washington
Thanks Figgie, I did say the words "I think", which implied it was my opinion and not a fact.. I should have added the words "when the fan clutch is engaged" but you may still be correct and I see your point..

There is also the key word I used "reliably" which is based upon the experience of friends of mine that have had problems with electric fans.. But I am sure there have been big improvements in electric fans over the last 10 years..
 

robeats91t

237lbs. of Ballast
Jun 4, 2005
210
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Tampa, FL
Good point, figgie--and I think this is probably the biggest advantage of e-fans. Technically, the fans could move their max cfm at idle, something the stock mechanical fan can't do.

I did a search on 'mania to see if anyone had done any comparison tests, and came across a flow test done by Shawndude, reposted by shaeff. In this thread, Shawndude states the importance of the engine undercover, stating that it makes a significant impact: "Without the engine undercover, there is 38% less volume of air flowing through the radiator at 60 mph."

Informative read--Shawndude makes some great points on controlling the airflow through the front of the car to maximize cooling.

Joel--I'd agree with you--on the whole, the mechanical setup is far more reliable and flows enough in all stock situations, including at idle. However, with age the rate of clutch failures increases, and also with brittle fans and broken fan shrouds that could potentially commit hara-kiri into the fan, many may wonder if there's a better setup out there.
 
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figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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robeats91t said:
Good point, figgie--and I think this is probably the biggest advantage of e-fans. Technically, the fans could move their max cfm at idle, something the stock mechanical fan can't do.

I did a search on 'mania to see if anyone had done any comparison tests, and came across a flow test done by Shawndude, reposted by shaeff. In this thread, Shawndude states the importance of the engine undercover, stating that it makes a significant impact: "Without the engine undercover, there is 38% less volume of air flowing through the radiator at 60 mph."

Informative read--Shawndude makes some great points on controlling the airflow through the front of the car to maximize cooling.

of course

you think nascar and ferrari like to throw away money on airflow research?? ;) lol

they try to optimize flow for downforce AND for cooling. With cooling be extremly high on the list. For instance I am seeing the MKIV guys putting Zirgo fans on thier cars which pull a lot more air. A 14 incher is pulling about 2300 (they say the curved blades pull 2600 but i highly doubt that)
 

robeats91t

237lbs. of Ballast
Jun 4, 2005
210
0
0
Tampa, FL
Heh, I only bring it up because I've heard countless times, "oh don't worry about the undercover. You don't need it."

Hearsay is a dangerous thing.

Are those Zirgo fans shrouded?
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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robeats91t said:
Heh, I only bring it up because I've heard countless times, "oh don't worry about the undercover. You don't need it."

Hearsay is a dangerous thing.

it is and I am glad that you did your own research to find out the truth ;)
 

ToyoHabu

New Member
Jun 25, 2005
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Huntsville, Alabama, United States
The stock mechanical fan does move more air than most electrical fans. However there is a reason this must be. An electrical fan can be mounted right next to the radiator with very little clearance between shroud and blade and blade and core without fear of damage to the radiator. The mechanical fan however must be mounted further away from the core with significant clearance around the shroud to compensate for movement of the engine during hard acceleration and deceleration. This clearance requirement significantly lowers the efficiency of the fan and its ability to move air through the radiator. As a result an electrical fan need not move as much air as a mechanical fan in order to move the same amount of air through the radiator. The hydraulic fan however does not suffer the same efficiency problem the mechanical fan does since it is mounted directly to radiator and has better tolerances all around.