Another Oil Filter Relocation Thread

[Old Radar]

First, I’d like to thank jdub and all the others who have documented such a vast amount of knowledge on the oil system here on Supramania. Sadly, many were started 10-13 years ago and many links are dead and many pictures no longer display.

I’ve read and re-read the relocation and oil cooler threads here until my eyes started bleeding. The more I read, the more I flipped back and forth on everything from upgrading to a full flow system and remaining pressure-based; install a new oil cooler or stay with my perfectly good 29 year old OEM cooler; install a thermostat and temp gauge or not; standard rubber lines or stainless steel braided lines, billet adapter and remote or cast aluminum kit fixtures.

Taking into consideration that I’m not in any way a street racer or horsepower hound and that my 7M-GTE is still basically stock, I’ve pulled my head out of my rear end and realized all I really want/need is to relocate my oil filter. Just like my recent decision to ditch the OEM air filter box for an Apexi cone filter, the core reason is to finally make periodic maintenance less of a pain in the ass and therefore less likely to be put off to some date to be named later. Especially the oil filter—changing that little SOB requires contortions I’m no longer interested in performing.

I like the idea of the swivel capability of the Canton remote adapter so I think I’ll use that—mostly because the Perma Cool type adapters have the fittings pointing straight down that require a big five-inch radius bend right out of the fittings or 90-degree AN fittings. I’m looking at the Aeroquip Socketless Hose for ease of assembly/installation vs. stainless steel braid and AN-8 vs. AN-10 because my oil pump is unshimmed stock and shouldn’t require anything bigger.

Many members have said they placed the remote filter mount “behind the passenger headlight”. This sounds like a good idea since there doesn’t seem to be an obviously convenient spot in the engine compartment on that side. Being a visual guy, I’m looking for a picture or a detailed description of the installation. The only picture I was able to find was jtran8’s pictorial in jdub’s 2008 Sticky http://www.supramania.com/forums/th...Controlled-Oil-Cooler-amp-Remote-Filter/page2. Looks like he bolted the remote mount to part# 51961—I don’t know the part name—and cut open the under-headlight splash shield to let the filter hang through. After visual inspection of that cavity, it looks like my stock intercooler pipe could be in the way. If that turns out to be the case, where is the next best option for ease of access and to minimize spilling potential?

Secondly, since I plan on keeping my stock oil cooler in service, I’m faced with the single-barb pipe nipples on both the cooler and the hard pipes that run from the cooler across the front of the car to the passenger side. The problem is, I will be unable to use the socketless fittings for those connections and the Aeroquip spec sheet says “never use clamps” on their socketless hose. Has anyone clamped this hose on those nipples? If so were there any issues or leaks?

Thanks for plowing through this and I look forward to your input.

 

[Jeff Lange]

Thread moved as per your request.

Jeff

 

[JDMMA70]

I didn't take that many photos when I was installing everything. Once you get started its hard to stop.

I do have a few photos however of the mounting location I chose. It is still behind the passenger fog lamp. Doesn't interfere with the intercooler piping at all.

 

[Old Radar]

Thanks Jeff! And thanks JDMMA70 for the picture. Once I stopped looking down through the gaps around the headlight and opened up the splash shield under the light, I saw that there is plenty of room.

Have you ever have a plan clear in your mind but then discovered an overlooked detail from the early stages of the concept that throws a big ass wrench into the works? Reading all the threads about full flow systems got me moving in that direction—i.e., Canton swivel adapter to remote filter to thermostat to oil cooler and changing all the old hoses to Aeroquip socketless. When I decided all I really needed to do was remote the filter and change the hoses, I still had that circuit as part of the plan along with the four-port remote filter bracket to route the new hoses to the cooler. When I got under the car today to measure hose requirements and finalize the routing, I saw the banjo fitting on the return line to the sump and thought “That’s not in the plan. Do I still need to cap that off?”

After getting back in the TSRM and re-reading some of the threads, I realized I hadn’t made the mental adjustment that I would no longer need to remove the stock oil filter bracket and therefore the oil cooler circuit would remain unchanged—except for new hoses—and all I needed for the oil filter circuit was a two port instead of a four port filter bracket since I’m not routing oil to the cooler from the filter.

Now that I’ve got that straight in my mind—I think :icon_conf—I’m still looking for anyone with experience—good or bad—clamping Aeroquip socketless hoses despite their warning to “never use clamps”. I don’t know if they say that in the “You never NEED TO use clamps” sense, or “Never use clamps because they don’t work on our hoses” sense.

Maybe I should just buy a Perma Cool kit and use the rubber hoses on the oil cooler circuit and the cast aluminum adapter, remote bracket and Aeroquip hoses with AN-8 fittings on the filter circuit. Thoughts?

 

[JDMMA70]

I used the socketless hose. You do not need clamps on them trust me.

I boiled the hose ends in hot water and threw the fittings in the freezer to make sliding them on easier.

 

[Old Radar]

Ahh—slight misunderstanding. I have no problem with the hose using the designed fittings. My question comes from the fact that the oil pipes associated with the OEM oil cooler—and the cooler itself already have integrated single barbed ends so using the hose’s socketless fittings is impossible. The only solution I can see is using hose clamps, but Aeroquip says never use clamps on their socketless hoses.

 

[Enraged]

is there a specific reason you want to keep the stock one? An upgraded oil cooler isn't an expensive upgrade, and it would let you use the hose of your choice.

 

[Old Radar]

Just an old fart trying to hang on to OEM systems that are still doing the job...

 

[JDMMA70]

One solution you can use, is a barb fitting that will allow you to connect the -AN ends to a factory type oil hose. The only type the factory oil cooler is doing anything is if the pressure is over 35psi iirc

 

[hvyman]

If your removing the stock oil cooler housing and putting a filter relocation adapter on the block and that goes to a filter and a t stat and a cooler you need to run -10an hose a min. The stock oil cooler will not keep up with the demand with that size hoses.

The stock circuit takes the increase in oil pressure dumps it in the cooler and back into the pan which is why it can be small.

But when it’s a direct shot back into the engine you should have atleast -10.

A simple way to do a cooler is with a earls sandwhich plate. You bolt that to the block and the filter goes on that and then you just run 2 -10 lines to a cooler.

 

[3p141592654]

He just wants to relocate the filter. Everything else is staying the same, including the stock oil cooler and pressure relief adapter on the block. I understand his motivation completely, the stock filter is a pain to remove especially with an automatic.

 

[plaaya69]

That is why after my first oil change, I been using the white K&N 1002 oil filters with the big 1" nut on the bottom so I can get it off with a socket and a extension. Oil changes have been a breeze since. Also a extending 3 lb magnetic pick-up helps to move the oil filter around from the top if it drops in a tight area. Just a idea if you do not find any alternatives.

 

[seoul4korea]

What would be the right way to route everything? I'm going to be running the driftmotion oil cooler kit and an oil relocation kit. So here is what I'm looking at:

Thermostatic sandwich plate
oil sensor Blox sandwich plate
Oil filter relocation adapters
-10 braided lines and fittings.
DM oil cooler

I'm mainly curious about the braided lines routing

 

[hvyman]

route them easiest way possible.