abolute most reliable upgrade parts for 350hp DD/weekend dragracing supra

[Sparkynutz]

there are sooo many routes to acheive 350 hp easily with a supra but I am looking for advice if money were no object and you wanted the most relaible motor and easy to use engine managment/fuel tuning what would you get? I dont want anything fancy just the ability to run 6-8psi as a daily driver and 15-20psi at the track.
my car is an 88T 5spd and motor runs strong no major problems so far.
mods so far-
profec b boost controller
custom turbo elbow on stock ct
3" exhaust with test pipe hks exhuast
aftermarket intake filter
fluidyne radiator
blitz turbo timer
head gasket was done 50k miles ago unsure if engine internals are stock or not.
I plan on drag racing the car a couple times a year and want to be able to beat on it at the track and drive it to work the rest of the summer.
I'd like something that is extremely easy to tune or something I can have someone else tune and never touch again with the exception of changing boost.
I know I could just take it to a shop but would rather do as much myself as possible so I knew how things were done and hopefully learn a little in the process.

 

[1992supraman]

57trim turbo. maft.

 

[Rennat]

I would say get forged rods and pistons for the insurance against the stock ones breaking, and melting a piston. But thats if money were no object....

350hp to the wheels or just at the crank?

(and i know you'll want more after you race it a few times)

 

[IwantMKIII]

stock internals are reliable over 400WHP

Many people are over 600WHP with them.

57GT turbo, 550's, lex afm, walbro, 2.5 IC pipes, tuning device, intake, WB, 3" back and you're good

 

[Sparkynutz]

I would say get forged rods and pistons for the insurance against the stock ones breaking, and melting a piston. But thats if money were no object....

350hp to the wheels or just at the crank?

(and i know you'll want more after you race it a few times)

any certain brand?
350 or so to the wheels. only time it would be on a dyno would be to tune, not necisarily to see what it can do. I just want something faster than most stock cars on the road.

I kinda like that the stock turbo is water and oil cooled. any recomendations for a turbo that is besides rebuilding the stock one?

what kind of fuel pump, injectors, fuel regulators or managment?

 

[Boost Lee]

For a healthy and reliable 350rwhp,

[Making full assumption that the motor internally is up to par with the mods you'll be throwing at it]

A CT2657 Turbo (Will make 350rwhp no problems on pump gas, reliable, very little lag and is a bolt-on.)

Supporting fuel mods recommended would be:
-550cc Injectors (RC Engineering's seem to be the most successful, popular and easy to get your hands on)
-Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
-Aeromotive (Very Popular) Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Now the tricky part. You can get a Lexus AFM (From a Lexus V8), which is the easiest way. Easy to find, cheap and will easily support your horspower goals and more.

OR

Go MAFT. This way, is a bit more expensive, but, once tuned to perfection, is hands down, the preferred method as opposed to the hated AFM technology.

3" Exhaust from the turbo back, Good air filter, Wideband, and/or S-AFC for tuning (If you're not going MAFT).

There's, of course, a handful of other items that you'll want to buy along the way, but that would be a good start.

Jeff

 

[Rennat]

this is a money no object question though... so why not run forged internals?

and i would go maft pro. Especially since it gets rid of the stock AFM crap...
i dont know if a ffim would be necessary or not, but if you have the money i would do it.

 

[Fuzz420]

Skip the ct all together!!!!

Me i opted for a Jt-56 bolt-on turbo, Maft Pro to tune. Probe Pistons cause they were cheap.I only used stock rods because my goals arent too high /w arp's of course . Walboro,550's,aeromotive,spec clutch, aluminum flywheel/driveshaft. I could keep going and going really.If money were no object and my hp goals werent ridiculous i would check the build section for my thread

 

[Poodles]

hell, the Greddy TD06 turbo will do that all day long without breaking a sweat...

350HP isn't much on the stock engine, 300 is easy to attain with the stock turbo as well...

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

"money no object" -- but assuming that you're staying 7M. A 2JZ-GTE can put down 350rwhp in nearly stock trim, which will be close to stock reliability. Similarly Toyota's 5L V12 would probably do that in bone stock trim.

Get a better turbo than stock. There are aftermarket water cooled turbos, after all. The 57 trim upgrade is good bang for the buck, but there's little doubt that there are better turbos out there. Tube manifold, external wastegate, 3" or better dp.

Take care of the intake plumbing. Hardpipes and an IC upgrade for sure.

Take care of the fuel system. Fuel pump, larger injectors (550s are a good idea, more than adequate for your power goals) MAF-T Pro with the goodies, and an AFPR. This way your fuel system won't be a failing point.

3" exhaust, a good cat-back system. Make sure the DP has a flex section in it. This relieves strain at the exhaust manifold in case you bump the exhaust, which will happen in a daily driver.

I wouldn't go with forged internals. It's not that they aren't stronger, because they are, but they are a bit inconvenient for a daily driver. You have to wait for the car to warm up so that the internals are at temperature before you get on the throttle. This is okay for a weekend car, but a daily driver needs to be able to start and go without problems, because there will be times that you just don't have time. (Late for work, for example.) These things happen, and this will affect long-term reliability more than the stock internals will, provided that you take care of the rest of the engine properly.

A full-disc clutch like the ACT is a good idea for daily driver convenience, a 6 puck can be adapted to for street, but will probably chatter. The upgraded PP is really the key for your power goals anyway. I'd probably leave the stock driveshaft alone, though there'd be no harm in a good one piece.

Upgrade the radiator, of course. Part of avoiding a BHG is proper cooling. In the same vein, make sure your water pump and thermostat is good.

Reliability is all about common sense, really. Make sure that you do the supporting mods for your power adders, and you'll be fine.

 

[Sparkynutz]

thanks for all the help guys. I have some of the supporting mods as stated in first post, but what I was actually asking was if you were to put the best possible parts that would attain that power level what make or models would they be?
some guys said Maft pro for example and I have been thinking about going that route for a year or so now.
what make injectors, fuel pump, turbo, ect. would you run if you wanted the best you could get not nicisarily easiest to get, best bang for the buck, but best of the best at any price.
and for engine internals, if the only parts good for starting and going not needing much startup time are stock, then I'll have to keep them for sure because I run late for work all the time.
thanks,
Ryan

 

[Ma70.Ent]

If money was no object go Motec, haha.

 

[Rennat]

This is the first i've heard about forged internals need to be "warmed up"... if i was going to boost it, i could understand, but i like 2mins from school, i turn my car on, wait for oil pressure to raise to normal cold levels, and then i drive...

Please expalin this a little more.

 

[bountykilla0118]

my friend just dynoed yesterday and put down 357rwhp and 370tq @ 10psi on a 57trim on the stock fuel system .... well with a APFR sooo thats makes it 2/3 stock leaving the stock 440s and pump.

he is tuned between 11.9-12.4 @ WOT

 

[HommerSimpson]

food for thought on the forged internals.... Did you know that them formula one cars and the other very high tech engines like them are LOCKED UP SOLID when they are at ROOM temp ? yep... locked up solid... they have to heat the engine to operating temp before they can even crank it...

I would go with a good set of cast pistons that have a full coating... tops and skirts....

 

[IJ.]

Stock 2jz+ bb turbo sized to give the power band required= 350 all day every day end of story.

 

[Boost Lee]

Ian, can't really, argue with that too much there.

It's completely true. If you 100% stand by saying that "Price doesn't matter",
It's hard to beat the Out of the Box reliability of a 2JZ.
Already makes well over 300 at the crank. At this power level, will never have to worry about headgaskets, or lack of a well designed oiling system, and with a medium frame ballbearing turbo, it'll spool just as quick as the twins and EASILY make 350rwhp.

IJ dominates, once again. :biglaugh:

Jeff

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Fuel Pump: Walbro, or Mk4 TT stocker.

Injectors: RC Engineering are popular, and have an excellent reputation. I have PTE injectors myself, and am very happy with them.

Turbocharger: Not sure personally. I managed to score an older Turbonetics unit, but I don't know what the "money no object" solution would be. I'm sure that it's NOT an upgraded CT26 though.

What I've read concerning the MAF-T Pro seems like an excellent solution, but I don't have any personal experience. I like the stock ECU for daily driver reliability, and drivability over a standalone, which tend to be more high strung.

Forged internals: What I read is that forged parts have a higher coefficient of expansion than cast, so when the engine hasn't warmed up, the pistons are undersized, and can slap against the cylinder wall. Stock internals are much better for start and go.

And as I said before, this is assuming that you want to stay 7M. The 2JZ will make your power goals with stock reliability. A decent single turbo kit and boost controller, and you're done.

 

[Whasian]

stock internals are reliable over 400WHP

Many people are over 600WHP with them.

57GT turbo, 550's, lex afm, walbro, 2.5 IC pipes, tuning device, intake, WB, 3" back and you're good

You say many people over 600 hp on all stock internals...I would like to know who. Because all the engines I have seen that are over 500 all needed brand new internals.

Whasian

 

[Whasian]

Money being no option, I went a little over 350. But most of mine is about reliablility. I am going to be at about 490 hp after I finish my block. Here is my list of things.

Engine:

Rebuilt short block w/.040 over teflon coated pistons, teflon coated rods, clevite 77 bearings, and arp rod bolts. Everything else in the rebuild is stock.

Remanufactured head completely stock mated to the block with hks 2.0mm stopper metal headgasket and ARP head bolts torqued to 90 ft/lbs.

Everything else in the engine bay is new. Gaskets, hoses, pumps, everything.

Drivetrain:
Rebuild R-154 transmission, short shifter, stage three 6 puck srung clutch, lightweight flywheel, and a rebuild n/a lsd differencial.

Other parts:
Mines VX-Rom ECU
550 boss turbocharger
3" BIC downpipe with wastegate dump tube
3.5" catback exhaust
550cc injectors
greddy timing belt
Areomotive fuel pressure regulator kit
Autometer wideband
greddy timer
greddy profec boost controller
blitz dd bov

That is the list of things that pertain to the working part of the engine. With that setup, I can run 25 psi all day long and never worry about blowning a headgasket, rod knock, boost spike, or any other problem, And I would say if you did the same setup. Including the charger and everything else (minus the ecu since there is no chance of getting that.) About 8000.00 for everything. That is a great deal I think.

Whasian