A/F R's all over the place??
- Thread starter SLO-MK3
- Start date
What is the vacuum at idle? So you had this problem before you made the new intake piece? Or only after you ported the PCV line to it?
jetjock said:
Dead on the 500 mmhg mark.
Problem started after new intake( was fine with the accordian) When I first made it, I only fabbed a port for the isc(and ps vac line). I then noticed this problem and later made a port for the pcv to see if this would somehow remedy the problem, but did not.
New intake pipe is full 3" with proper reducer on turbo inlet. No leaks and I'm running out of ideas. I'm half tempted to throw the accordian back on and see if that changes anything. I don't see how it would though.
Hopefully he'll discover as he's removing his new accordian replacement that he forgot to hook up something, or instal something back correctly.
Could be. You know how often it turns out to be the simple stuff. Because I work on aircraft I tend to assume people take care when they do things but I've learned it's not always the case. The recent thread about mistakes has driven that point even further home 
I've swapped the stock accordian hose back on and it runs the same;lean on start-up, then richens up as it gets more to opperating temp(fuel pressure@25 w/vac). So this leads me to believe that this problem is not related to my new pipe, just coincidently happend at the same time. I'm leaning more toards the o2 sensor being the problem here. Would this be a safe assumption considering everything else is ruled out(ie vac leaks and that sort of thing)?
Does anyone have a link to the tsrm that will walk me through the steps of checking the o2 signal? What would be the next step here?
Does anyone have a link to the tsrm that will walk me through the steps of checking the o2 signal? What would be the next step here?
No codes present. Unpluging the o2 sensor does make it go rich with a code 21. Now, to ckeck the vf, is that the vf1 or vf2? Which 't' needs to be grounded, Te1,Te2,Tc,Ts,or Tt? I know to jumper Te1&E1 to get codes, I've made an in-cabin switch for that.(comes in handy sometimes)
In the meantime I'll try changing the colant temp. sensor. I've got a spare lying around
)In the meantime I'll try changing the colant temp. sensor. I've got a spare lying around
Te1 and e1 jumpered gets a flashing CEL=no codes stored
"^^^^^^^^^^^^^" and 2500rpm gets a code 51=no "IDL" signal,"NSW" signal, or "A/C" signal to the ECU during diagnosis check.
Trouble area
*A/C switch circuit
*A/C switch
*A/C amplifier
*Throttle position sensor circuit
*Throttle position sensor
*ECU
Have I performed this part of the test right? Should I be getting this code?
"^^^^^^^^^^^^^" and 2500rpm gets a code 51=no "IDL" signal,"NSW" signal, or "A/C" signal to the ECU during diagnosis check.
Trouble area
*A/C switch circuit
*A/C switch
*A/C amplifier
*Throttle position sensor circuit
*Throttle position sensor
*ECU
Have I performed this part of the test right? Should I be getting this code?
Yes...code 51 will occur as soon as the throttle plate is advanced from the idle position.
Just a thought...the vac line leading to the power steering idle up valve on the pump. Did you check it and the valve for leaks?
I also see you have your SSQV vented to the atmosphere...mine is the same. After any run above 1500 rpm or so, if I suddenly let off the throttle to idle, my AFR goes rich. Only for a few seconds though...it recovers back to 14.7.
Just a thought...the vac line leading to the power steering idle up valve on the pump. Did you check it and the valve for leaks?
I also see you have your SSQV vented to the atmosphere...mine is the same. After any run above 1500 rpm or so, if I suddenly let off the throttle to idle, my AFR goes rich. Only for a few seconds though...it recovers back to 14.7.
I've been reading all posts and related posts in the CPS thread and I'm still trying to figure out if I'm doing it right. I gave up on it last night,I'll try again here in a while and post my findings. Thanks for everyones help.
-Brian
-Brian
OK, I also have the pos centech muli-meter and not sure what setting to put it on. If this meter sucks, tell me, I'll go buy a good one.(LMK which one I should buy)
T&E jumpered(switch on) engine @2500rmp, this is what I've found.....
red probe to vf1
black to batt neg.
DCv setting
1000=000 no changes
200=00.1 no changes
20=0.05 no changes
2000m=060 no changes
200m=58.3-60.0 Jumps around
Same settings @ 2500rpm un-jumpered(switch off)
1000=002 no changes
200=2.3 no changes
20= 2.26 no changes
2000m=1 no changes
200m=1 . no changes
After doing these tests, A/F ratio @ steady 13.3 wtf(still no codes)
T&E jumpered(switch on) engine @2500rmp, this is what I've found.....
red probe to vf1
black to batt neg.
DCv setting
1000=000 no changes
200=00.1 no changes
20=0.05 no changes
2000m=060 no changes
200m=58.3-60.0 Jumps around
Same settings @ 2500rpm un-jumpered(switch off)
1000=002 no changes
200=2.3 no changes
20= 2.26 no changes
2000m=1 no changes
200m=1 . no changes
After doing these tests, A/F ratio @ steady 13.3 wtf(still no codes)
i noticed you have a fpr? have you adjusted it any? if running stock injectors put it to stockfuel pressure.
is your car missing at all? a miss will usualy run lean tho, more air.
a clgged air filter has no effect on efi cars. only hinders performance not afr.
an open vac source will give high idle, and leaner afr
is your car missing at all? a miss will usualy run lean tho, more air.
a clgged air filter has no effect on efi cars. only hinders performance not afr.
an open vac source will give high idle, and leaner afr
Where's that in your avatar? The Marin Head Lands up behind the Golden Gate? That's what just behind the car, a thousand foot drop to the ocean? Maybe you should've pushed it off when you had the chance
All you needed was the 20 volt scale. You didn't say what Vf is at idle but I'll let it slide. You seem to have the same problem Johnathan did. Your meter shows no cross counting yet Vf seems normal. Since even the mighty Centech should be able to read O2 cross counts I don't know what to say other than if we trust it the O2 sensor appears dead. The 13 A/F ratio also points to that. Course, in Johnathan's case it was working so I dunno.
Otherwise it appears the engine is stuck in open loop. If you drive it a few times you should get an O2 code. Change the sensor or at least remove and test it. Lol, since that'll require the use of fire we'd better avoid it. On second thought, since it'll require more use of the meter we'd *really* better avoid it
All you needed was the 20 volt scale. You didn't say what Vf is at idle but I'll let it slide. You seem to have the same problem Johnathan did. Your meter shows no cross counting yet Vf seems normal. Since even the mighty Centech should be able to read O2 cross counts I don't know what to say other than if we trust it the O2 sensor appears dead. The 13 A/F ratio also points to that. Course, in Johnathan's case it was working so I dunno.
Otherwise it appears the engine is stuck in open loop. If you drive it a few times you should get an O2 code. Change the sensor or at least remove and test it. Lol, since that'll require the use of fire we'd better avoid it. On second thought, since it'll require more use of the meter we'd *really* better avoid it
jetjock said:Where's that in your avatar? The Marin Head Lands up behind the Golden Gate? That's what just behind the car, a thousand foot drop to the ocean? Maybe you should've pushed it off when you had the chance
funny guy, funny guy:biglaugh:
yeah big drop-off, looks alot like this
If only I had know this was going to happen
On a more serious note, thanks for all your help(and everyone else too), very much appreciated.
I'll try a new o2, but in the meantime, is it safe to run with the ecu on default rich?
pimptrizkit said:
Lol. That's it, that's all she wrote....I'm going to go spend some time in the real world.
SLO: OK to run open loop (if it really is) for a bit but do it too long and it'll wreck your cat.