A 88 Turbo Virgin here. Please help.

[p5150]

wow dude you got a smoking deal. The Vein pressure converter alone is at least 500 bucks. I think your problem lies in the VPC - (or Fuel controller) it is probably set too rich and you have too much gas going into your engine. The best way to correct this is to purchase a wideband oxygen sensor and tune your engine. You could tune it with the VPC on your stock narrow band sensor, but it will be difficult to estimate where your AFR stands and you could melt a piston.

Forget the AFM idea because you dont have one. The VPC runs off of a MAP sensor which reads manifold pressure. If anything, your oxygen sensor could be bad......

First, though, I would recommend that you take the car to a dynometer and have them help you tune it with their WB oxygen sensor. You will learn a lot, get the car running and help isolate your problem - safely. Since you arent getting any codes your o2 sensor is probably OK, but it wouldnt hurt to have an extra one on hand at the dyno to help isolate any problems.

 

[JimR]

If you have your owners manual, I'd suggest sitting in your car and reading over it, front-to-back, and check things out. There are some good surprises there, like the number of different adjustments you can do to your steering wheel! It also lists every single light in the instrument cluster, so you can find out about the low coolant light yourself.

From there... it's on to the repair manuals (TSRM). It looks like your brake fluid and clutch fluid are pretty black. I'd suggest replacing that fluid and bleeding the brakes, but that's minor stuff, after you've gotten the engine running smoothly.

One more thing... when you pull the codes and it blinks regularily with no change in the pattern, it means there are no codes.

Jim

 

[MERCiLESS]

Thank you guys for hte feedback. I do not have an owner's manual and the TSRM I've been reading online (not that that helps when I'm in the vehicle).

Well today I took the car over to a mechanic for him to check it out and see what is wrong. Once he gets back to me with what he things is wrong I'll start eliminating one problem at a time with the most severe one first.

P5150 do you know where I can buy or download an owner's manual? I'll also check around for a shop that has a dynometer.

Jim thanks for the info on the constant flashing engine light. There may be a problem because it comes on when the car is running for a while maybe there is something loose somewhere.

I'll let you guys know what the mechanic reports back.

 

[Dirgle]

You had better hope that mechanic knows how to tune a VPC(Vein Pressure Converter), or even knows what one is for that matter. Your average Joe mechanic is not going to know how to adjust one of those, and could potentially do more harm than good. Take it to a mechanic that has a Dynamometer they usually know how to adjust fuel computers.

 

[smagnotta]

You had a question about the Toyota Red Coolant.

Yes, for these cars use the Toyota Red Coolant and a bottle of Redline's Water Wetter - a good combo. The Toyota Red Coolant is very expensive - it is $18.00 per jug. Water wetter is a good anti-corrosive and lowers the temperature.

Don't use the GM Dexcool orange coolant. Regular cheap green coolant is fine too.

If that birdcage light comes on, it means the platic white overflow bottle is too low on coolant and you need to fill it to the full line. If this happens often it can mean a blown head gasket or air in the system.

Regular oil is fine or you can use Mobil 1 Synthetic.

 

[MERCiLESS]

Hey Gang,

The mechanic reported that the problem was my TPS, he said that it was gone and that the car was running off of boost alone hence the retarded jerking.

He asked about who worked on the car before because he was quite impressed with what he saw under the hood. He also reported a knocking in the engine and said it was because the engine needed more oil. He's going to do an oil and filter change and run a richer oil in there as well as fix the TPS. I'll let you guys know how it turns out when those things are completed.

How much do you think a replacement TPS with labor should cost? He should be getting back to me today and I want to have an idea what it ranges from both New and a used replacement.

Thanks for the help. I hope this gets the car running right again and it's up to NY for my dad to work on the body and for my brother to take it and re-upholster the interior.

 

[p5150]

a new TPS is going to cost you $$$$$$$$$ but a used one from e bay will cost you $. He shouldnt charge you any more than 50 bucks to change it - its pretty simple.

 

[MERCiLESS]

I ordered one for $99 from auto zone. It takes 3-4 business days to get here so by Friday I should have it. That was the cheapest price compared to the other shops.

I am also getting a tranny and engine oil change and he's going to look at some other stuff on the car for me to get them working all for $65.

I was happy with the price for his labor and hopefully she's back up and running smoothly. I'll take it to the shop to have that CAT put in and maybe have them tune it up once that's done I'll go for the inspection and run her a little bit.

He said I was about a quart and a half short on oil so hopefully that stops the tapping I'm getting in the engine once it has enough in there.

Will keep you all posted.

 

[Disced]

Hmm... Only being 1 1/2 quarts low still shouldn't give you a knock.. What type of oil do you run?

You might consider switching to a fully synthetic... I run AMSoil Turbo Fully Synthetic + Lucas Oil stabilizer and car idles smoother/runs smoother all around.. ANd since it is so thick/durable, I don't have to wait as long to turn the car off!

The only problem is, per oil change will run you about 60 $... But I think it is well worth it.. =)

 

[xride63]

your is your idle rough? im not sure but if your BOV (blow off valve) is open atmosphere it will idle low and rough with that sputtering. also if its an open atmosphere BOV it will cause the car to die when letting off the throttle. most cars respond this way because the boost isn't recirculating and it trips the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. a closed circut BOV or bypass valve makes the car run normal(er)

car looks nice man.. and it has a nice deal of mods on it for a car that cost you 2K. somethin to get you started, that MK3 has some potential.

 

[browning]

with the vpc he can run open bov because the ecu isn't looking for that extra air.the vpc uses a map sensor instead of a mas.

 

[MERCiLESS]

Hey Disced, there was a thinner oil in there and now I'm running something thicker. The mechanic recommended lucas oil however he said that only masks the problem of tapping and it's just a matter of time before it gets worse.

Next oil change I think I'll go with Lucas all the way.

Xride: I am so happy with my purchase. I ran into some receipts he had in the car today and two trips to the shop was close to $2000 for parts and labor alone so I know I got a screaming deal. I'll make the best out of it and will be definitely gleaming from ear to ear when he show up to check it out when its completed.

Well today we changed the TPS and were getting the same problems (Stuttered run and shutdown with little to no idle).

I figured the VPC wasn't set correctly and could be causing most of the problems come to find out later on that the TPS had to be adjusted. I left there early before we had any progress and he said he took it back out again and adjusted and not it's running like a charm (I can't wait to see that).

Hopefully tomorrow (6/16) I'll be able to go back there and check it out fo rmyself.

The tapping in the engine is still there and he's thinking the cams may be bad, rusted or not aligned properly. After watching his performance today I don't think I want him fussing around in my car anymore unless all mechanics start pulling plugs until they figure out the problem

I'll take it from him and try to get it to a shop that can look at it better but I'm not sure yet money's kinda tight between my new baby and moving to another state so we'll see.

 

[Disced]

Yea... the TPS has to be callibrated(sp?).. Also, if I were you, I would find a supra guy near you to come look @ it.. They work (well most) for free/food/beer and will be able to figure out the problem. It could be valve tap, as I remember a couple different people going through that and having to get their valves re-aligned... I'm not sure how you check that though, or even do that.. if you can yourself.

Also, I'm not sure who said it but after you figure out the tapping, I would also recommend you go and get the VPC tuned.. It will make a world of difference on how you car runs/gas mileage/accel...

 

[MERCiLESS]

Well we calibrated the TPS and got it in. Still having that stupid sputtering. How can I determine if the timing is off and is there is a simple way to adjust it (a newby way). I'm not sure if I read it somewhere to put the car in some gear and pull up the hand brakes not sure what I was reading and I can't find it again.

Any help will be appreciated and DOES ANYONE LIVE CLOSE TO DE? I'll COME GET YOU TO HELP ME OUT WITH THIS CAR!!

PLEASE?!?!?!

 

[xride63]

i know one way to fix your valve problems.. V-TEC bitch!! :gotrice:

 

[7mgte3sgte]

see its people like xride up there who make people like me love beating the shit out of hondas even more
hey xride grow up :asshole:

 

[p5150]

have you looked where your spark plugs are yet? sometimes the valve cover gaskets fail and can leak in there - it will make your car sputter.

Get a haynes manual.

 

[MERCiLESS]

Well as of yesterday the 4th 5th and 6th plugs are messed up in various ways, one bent, one broken and it's a mess in there. I'm taking it to a shop now to get everything done.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[xride63]

thats good thats all it is man.. im sure the thing just needs a good once over and it will be alright. i remember my moms car ran really rough and on the highway it would almost die as if hitting fuel cut or somehting. turned out her plugs ahd 60k on them and never got replaced. im confident your car will be just fine once new plugs and wires are taken care of.

 

[MERCiLESS]

Anyone familiar with IMP International Motorsport Products in Clifton NJ? I'm about to take my car there next week. I hear they are knowledgeable in supras and turbo charged cars period.

Anyone have any experience with them?