935motorsports Slotted Rotor Set Reviews?
- Thread starter Rennat
- Start date
I purchased a set of powerslot rotors and hawk performance pads for the fronts from robert at 935 a few months ago and I can honestly say that I've never driven a supra that stopped so well. I've done a few 90-0 stops and they dont fade or loose grip. I even had to do an emergency stop from 125 to 30 on the freeway and they performed very well.
Thanks for the feedback, both 935 and ck.
I dont think i can beat 140 for a set of rotors, and if i can get a set of cyro ones (i've always wanted to try them out) then i'll end up doing that... I dont see the point of upgrading the back disc's right now, im only buying disc's so when i pull the caliper i can just put on a new one.
I'll decide on monday, as i have an extra $200 from selling some car parts.
I dont think i can beat 140 for a set of rotors, and if i can get a set of cyro ones (i've always wanted to try them out) then i'll end up doing that... I dont see the point of upgrading the back disc's right now, im only buying disc's so when i pull the caliper i can just put on a new one.
I'll decide on monday, as i have an extra $200 from selling some car parts.
Poodles said:
They make plenty.
I can buy (from best performance to worst, dependent on quality) carbon pads, carbon/metallic, organic, low metallic, semi metallic, ceramic, and so on... in all types of grades.
I have low metallic (retail price is 160 for the front pair, 100+ on ebay) and they can make 100+ stops easy. More then enough to lockup the tires after the cars suspension compresses (the weight gets shifted to the front). I have ZR1 245's all around.
locking up the brakes and doing one 100mph+ stop is a horrible test of braking performance
this has been discussed over and over...
this has been discussed over and over...
SORRY! i didn't mean to say lockup like that... i have abs.
Also i know its bad... because if you jam the brakes without letting the car shift weight you're just asking for a bad stop.
I just saying stock system with good pads is overkill for my tires.. I have NEVER hit the brakes all the way down, it would just make my abs kick in. And Although the ABS in a MK3 keeps you going straight it really kills youre braking.
Also i know its bad... because if you jam the brakes without letting the car shift weight you're just asking for a bad stop.
I just saying stock system with good pads is overkill for my tires.. I have NEVER hit the brakes all the way down, it would just make my abs kick in. And Although the ABS in a MK3 keeps you going straight it really kills youre braking.
I just want to be sure that if some dumbass pulls in front of me while im doing 85mph that im not going to be completely screwed when i try and stop my car... especially on the freeways around where i live, one second your going along just fine 75+ and then your at a crawl in under a second or two... no joke, its crazy.... and i hate it. But thats CA for ya... If anybody from the local area commutes over the altamont they know what im talking about...
please anyone from anywhere in CA knows what you're talking about.
When I 1st moved here in 2002 from the East Coast I was doing 90mph on the 405 south of the 10 then went around that big blind bend and traffic was completely stopped. Fuckin NAILED the poor bastard in front of me. My Impala wasn't having no emergency stop. Just tanked her and gave her the whiplash of her life.
I just got out like W T F just happened ?
Also I see someone posted they were gonna get drilled AND slotted rotors.
DO NOT do that. 1st off Brembo DOES NOT make drilled rotors. If you see some then they have been done post production or are knockoffs. Drilled can crack the rotor in extreme circumstances, and aren't proven to dissipate heat any better than blanks.
Slotted do work the way they're supposed to, and just look at my pic up there of how they go perfect and aren't too noisy and distracting from the rest of it's surroundings.
Get blanks or slotted only.
When I 1st moved here in 2002 from the East Coast I was doing 90mph on the 405 south of the 10 then went around that big blind bend and traffic was completely stopped. Fuckin NAILED the poor bastard in front of me. My Impala wasn't having no emergency stop. Just tanked her and gave her the whiplash of her life.
I just got out like W T F just happened ?
Also I see someone posted they were gonna get drilled AND slotted rotors.
DO NOT do that. 1st off Brembo DOES NOT make drilled rotors. If you see some then they have been done post production or are knockoffs. Drilled can crack the rotor in extreme circumstances, and aren't proven to dissipate heat any better than blanks.
Slotted do work the way they're supposed to, and just look at my pic up there of how they go perfect and aren't too noisy and distracting from the rest of it's surroundings.
Get blanks or slotted only.
Rennat said:
if you buy a set of upgraded performance rotors, it would be a waste to put a stock replacement set of brake pads to go with them. I highly suggest with going with aftermarket pads to make full use of the rotors. Hawk perfomance makes an excellent set of brake pads. I believe a set of front hawk pads is in the 70 dollar range.
Slotted = good
drilled (in any form) = BHG!!!! haha.
and red88 if you would have read my very FIRST Post then you would know that i have a set of porterfield R4S pads... which stop great already... and it wouldnt be a waste on stock pads anyways... it would'nt be as effective, but it would still be better. Its like buying a turbo and only setting it to 7psi because you dont have the fuel for 20psi.
drilled (in any form) = BHG!!!! haha.
and red88 if you would have read my very FIRST Post then you would know that i have a set of porterfield R4S pads... which stop great already... and it wouldnt be a waste on stock pads anyways... it would'nt be as effective, but it would still be better. Its like buying a turbo and only setting it to 7psi because you dont have the fuel for 20psi.
I currently have a set of Porterfield pads paired with stock rotors and I can attest to how fast they can fade. I did some hard braking from 160 km/h down to ~80 as hard as possible...by the time the car got down to 80 the braking ability left in the car was gone. If I had been in a situation where I needed to brake again to avoid something, I guarantee I would have hit it.
I have a set of slotted Brembo rotors on the shelf and I am currently searching for the best street/light track pads possible. I don't expect miracles but I hope they are slightly better than my current setup. I want to track my car next summer but I am afraid to take it to the track with the stock brakes.
An ARZ BBK is on the spreadsheet in the "future mods" column. However, there are many thinks between here and there.
I have a set of slotted Brembo rotors on the shelf and I am currently searching for the best street/light track pads possible. I don't expect miracles but I hope they are slightly better than my current setup. I want to track my car next summer but I am afraid to take it to the track with the stock brakes.
An ARZ BBK is on the spreadsheet in the "future mods" column. However, there are many thinks between here and there.
I have brembo slotted, porterfield street pads, reman rotors, new master, SS lines using dot 3 fluid(changed when its dirty). My brakes are awesome, I stop hard and dam fast. I have dont like 80-dead stop with no problems or noticable fade. The setup has lasted me along time considering I jam the breaks everytime I stop. I never do any whimpy slow downs lol.
Since Im na and dont go too fast, I love being thrown out of my seat when I stop fast.
Since Im na and dont go too fast, I love being thrown out of my seat when I stop fast.
I like the feel of the pads i have, i just want a little more, and i also have a set of stainless lines, and brand new caliper's all the way around, so i know there good, i just wouldn'nt mind that little extra...
And die, you have an AT i assume, at least according to your sig, if you were a stick then you would just downshift and save the brakes...
and i've stopped so fast i locked up the front tires, i did it for fun though, haha. so i know the porterfield's can grab when i need them too. And also once i get new tires i know that my braking performance will go up because i'll have more traction for braking... 235 vs 215 tire size just = more lock up resistant.
And die, you have an AT i assume, at least according to your sig, if you were a stick then you would just downshift and save the brakes...
and i've stopped so fast i locked up the front tires, i did it for fun though, haha. so i know the porterfield's can grab when i need them too. And also once i get new tires i know that my braking performance will go up because i'll have more traction for braking... 235 vs 215 tire size just = more lock up resistant.
Rennat said:
Yea, Im auto but I didnt buy good brakes to just save them lol I want Use them for all they are worth. I like to bring the supra to very edge of lockup, hear the tires howl for traction hehehe.
215? WTF! stock sawblades come with 225!
I have some ZR1 245's on my sawblades and they grab just as good as my old dunlop sp5000 245's witch are about 10 inches wide (245 my ass) except the ZR1's have a much stronger sidewall BUT with the dunlops i was able to gun it in first with about 8psi mostly stock in the poring rain. The ZR1 are about 100-120 each with installation.
If you have R4S pads then that means they are Carbon Metallic pads. They Don't fade... so there is no need for slotted rotors, they will just reduce surface area. Try to see if you could find some rotors that just cool better, the fins work like a air pump... the more fins the more air the rotors move threw them. Also make sure you get some that wont rust on you, I'm sure they galvanize em i don't know.
I have some ZR1 245's on my sawblades and they grab just as good as my old dunlop sp5000 245's witch are about 10 inches wide (245 my ass) except the ZR1's have a much stronger sidewall BUT with the dunlops i was able to gun it in first with about 8psi mostly stock in the poring rain. The ZR1 are about 100-120 each with installation.
If you have R4S pads then that means they are Carbon Metallic pads. They Don't fade... so there is no need for slotted rotors, they will just reduce surface area. Try to see if you could find some rotors that just cool better, the fins work like a air pump... the more fins the more air the rotors move threw them. Also make sure you get some that wont rust on you, I'm sure they galvanize em i don't know.
man everyone is ripping on the mk3 brakes but i dont think they are that bad
for reference
my brakes are brembo blank rotors
new replacement calipers
goodridge stainless lines
axxis metal master pads
i won one year end class championship in my autocross region
got runner up the next year and then swapped to a turbo motor
this year after the turbo swap i ran the car at a track for a weekend
a total of 160minutes of track time with a front strech toping the car at 110mph then slowing to 60
another turn was a 70 to about 30-40
for the track day i was on napa ceramic pads because i wore through the axxis pads on the front right before the track day
i never had fade issues and passed many cars and stuck with most thru the turns and was able to brake later than most of the vehicles in my group
the brakes did get extremely hot the centers started to blue because of heat but i didnt really have any fade
so that being said i dont feel the need to go to a big brake kit i am going to continue to buy brembo blanks and am going to order carbotech pads for next year
so take that for what you will
and dont dare say that i am a bad driver i have two class championships in different classes and one runner up in three years of competition in autocross
for reference
my brakes are brembo blank rotors
new replacement calipers
goodridge stainless lines
axxis metal master pads
i won one year end class championship in my autocross region
got runner up the next year and then swapped to a turbo motor
this year after the turbo swap i ran the car at a track for a weekend
a total of 160minutes of track time with a front strech toping the car at 110mph then slowing to 60
another turn was a 70 to about 30-40
for the track day i was on napa ceramic pads because i wore through the axxis pads on the front right before the track day
i never had fade issues and passed many cars and stuck with most thru the turns and was able to brake later than most of the vehicles in my group
the brakes did get extremely hot the centers started to blue because of heat but i didnt really have any fade
so that being said i dont feel the need to go to a big brake kit i am going to continue to buy brembo blanks and am going to order carbotech pads for next year
so take that for what you will
and dont dare say that i am a bad driver i have two class championships in different classes and one runner up in three years of competition in autocross
i bought a brake package from 935, included are slotted rotors, porterfield pads, and ss lines.
https://935motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=79_14_38_266&products_id=1170
i got the pads later so i havent installed them yet, but the brakes feel great. i havent had a chance to 'test' them out yet so i cant say more.
https://935motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=79_14_38_266&products_id=1170
i got the pads later so i havent installed them yet, but the brakes feel great. i havent had a chance to 'test' them out yet so i cant say more.
Thats awsome! i Had the NAPA ceramic pads too... turned a bit blue. Just that i had to do a warm up brake before i could really feel it. And i had 245 (10+inch wide) Dunlop sp5000 with a tight front end... but when i got the low metallic it was a whole new brake. Much better IMO... but they do glaze, the good thing tho is that after a day of driving they go back to normal because of the low metallic in them.
Maybe they are 225... i dont look at the tire size often... there new, and they grab fine. iwannadie your a funny man, your friends must love driving with you... But im just going to go with the powerslots, and if they dont work out, then i'll go with something different later. Im trying to do things that will also help the sale of the car later, because i know im going to buy a turbo supra eventually... just gotta sell my dsm that sits in my garage...
*sigh*
the issue is the system throws too much heat into the brake fluid... a BBK has more mass in the rotor and keeps the heat out of the brake fluid
the issue is the system throws too much heat into the brake fluid... a BBK has more mass in the rotor and keeps the heat out of the brake fluid