92nsx's supra build
- Thread starter 92nsx
- Start date
Added more pics to 7 and 8. Engine was running, sort of. I guess it made some noise 
Come to find a bad flange on the FFIM. Never the less more pics. to look at.
Come to find a bad flange on the FFIM. Never the less more pics. to look at.
8-2-2008 - Pics. are on post # 8 -
I put everything back together last night (with flange on FFIM straightened out) It started right up and had great vacuum. About 17 inHg. Thank you IJ for hitting the nail on the head as why I didn’t have any vacuum.. But now the idle is fluctuating between 1500 and 700 RPM's. I will need to do a little more trouble shooting this after noon.
Also since the FFFIM was off I bought a new custom length, braided stainless steel cold start injector fuel hose from Arron at Driftmotion. OEM length was 11.375" long and I had to stretch the crap out of it for it to work (not safe). I ordered a new one 13.25" long this way there is no risk of it getting stressed, braking, and causing an engine bay fire like I have read so much on here lately. Once again Arron comes to the rescue!!! Thank you. Pics. are on post # 8
I put everything back together last night (with flange on FFIM straightened out) It started right up and had great vacuum. About 17 inHg. Thank you IJ for hitting the nail on the head as why I didn’t have any vacuum.. But now the idle is fluctuating between 1500 and 700 RPM's. I will need to do a little more trouble shooting this after noon.
Also since the FFFIM was off I bought a new custom length, braided stainless steel cold start injector fuel hose from Arron at Driftmotion. OEM length was 11.375" long and I had to stretch the crap out of it for it to work (not safe). I ordered a new one 13.25" long this way there is no risk of it getting stressed, braking, and causing an engine bay fire like I have read so much on here lately. Once again Arron comes to the rescue!!! Thank you. Pics. are on post # 8
Im going to keep it the same color or just a tad bit darker when it comes to paint time. This color is growing on me. I might even leave the turbo-A duct and front lip black, I like the contrast it gives the front end, with the tinted windows
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92nsx;1094607 said:Im going to keep it the same color or just a tad bit darker when it comes to pant time. This color is growing on me. I might even leave the turbo-A duct and front lip black, I like the contrast it gives the front end, with the tinted windows
gun metal gray can be very atractive...
Very nice! My car is the same color, down to the missing window trip pieces and messed up paint. I even have tinted blinkers I thought I'd be getting a darker colored car when I looked at pictures of it but the light gunmetal color really is nice. Can't wait until yours is painted up, I've not seen a gunmetal supra with good paint before and my money is better spent elsewhere =)
I thought I'd be getting a darker colored car when I looked at pictures of it but the light gunmetal color really is nice. Can't wait until yours is painted up, I've not seen a gunmetal supra with good paint before and my money is better spent elsewhere =)
Okay first of all i really like this thread. A. Because what your doing exactly what i want to do to my supra. B. Its inspirational. Second of all i LOVE how the front bumper looks with the tinted turn sigs. Thirdly the comment above me, i like your sig. :icon_surp
92nsx: Keep up the great work, I will be subscribing to this.
92nsx: Keep up the great work, I will be subscribing to this.
white_def;1095020 said:
This is the reason I went with this FFIM. Alternator in OEM location and the A/C is still there and working!! The battery was suppose to stay in stock location also, but there was just no room
So now I have to get in the hach area some where that also has a OEM look to it. Maybe a smaller battey to fit in spair tire well or something like that.I am going for a modified OEM look with this car. I want eveything to "look" like it is the way Toyota made it. Two ways you get one like this, make it your self, or ask funky_monkey. He made a couple "like" mine. He uses a Q45 TB, not the massive 4" like mine. But even If you buy one there is still lots of work needed to get A FFIM up and running.:aigo:, need to add vacuum, ports, If needed (like mine) add CSI, and IAC. Plus all the wires need to lengthened.
Well here is sort of an update. After re-degreed in the 272 cams I am able to get the timing set to 10 degrees, I think. I still have code 41 and some thing is up with my TPS. When I jumper the diagnosis box on a cold engine my idle sits at 1500 rpms and the timing light is showing it at 10 degrees. After a min. or so of run time the Idle is very erratic, jumping from 1000 to 2000 rpms. Once I rev. the engine the idle jumps down to 700 or so and stays there for 5 sec. then goes back up to the 1000-2000rpm thing. So there is something still fubared up with something.
The electrical box has been turned and mounted 90 degrees from OEM spot for clearance on the FFIM. I Still need to find a spot I like my battery in the hatch spot area. My CD changer is on the passenger side where it “should” go. I want to find a spot that hides it well and doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb. Speaking of the CD changer it all of a sudden started working!!!! When I installed it with my Pioneer D2 my head unit didn’t recognize it so I could chose it to playing anything. Now last night I went to turn on the radio in the car and “bam” there is was ready to rock and roll. I don’t know why it started to work but whoo, it’s working.
My puke can (radiator overflow tank) that I ordered Is here but I don’t like it. You are able to see is next to the intercooler from the front of the car. So it’s back to the OEM one and make it work somehow. Maybe some 200 mph zip-ties will do the trick. The only problem I’m in on the GB for the Regulus nose piece and I am worried that the puke can could be seen through it once that is installed. But I will worry about that when that time comes.
I also need to spend some time on the coolant neck area wires. Right now they are hooked up but it looks like a rats nest, so I need to straighten them up and get some wire loom around them.
Last I need to find a place for the A/C twin fans. My intercooler piping is now in that place and don’t know where to install them at. Also I am trying to find a broken fan shroud since I only need the side with the “main” cooling fan, I don’t want to buy a new one and cut it up. Or I might just order a universal “chrome” one but again I don’t like the way the chrome ones look, I like the OEM look to cars.
Other then this Idle problem that car is ready for a rip.
The electrical box has been turned and mounted 90 degrees from OEM spot for clearance on the FFIM. I Still need to find a spot I like my battery in the hatch spot area. My CD changer is on the passenger side where it “should” go. I want to find a spot that hides it well and doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb. Speaking of the CD changer it all of a sudden started working!!!! When I installed it with my Pioneer D2 my head unit didn’t recognize it so I could chose it to playing anything. Now last night I went to turn on the radio in the car and “bam” there is was ready to rock and roll. I don’t know why it started to work but whoo, it’s working.
My puke can (radiator overflow tank) that I ordered Is here but I don’t like it. You are able to see is next to the intercooler from the front of the car. So it’s back to the OEM one and make it work somehow. Maybe some 200 mph zip-ties will do the trick.
The only problem I’m in on the GB for the Regulus nose piece and I am worried that the puke can could be seen through it once that is installed. But I will worry about that when that time comes.I also need to spend some time on the coolant neck area wires. Right now they are hooked up but it looks like a rats nest, so I need to straighten them up and get some wire loom around them.
Last I need to find a place for the A/C twin fans. My intercooler piping is now in that place and don’t know where to install them at. Also I am trying to find a broken fan shroud since I only need the side with the “main” cooling fan, I don’t want to buy a new one and cut it up.
Or I might just order a universal “chrome” one but again I don’t like the way the chrome ones look, I like the OEM look to cars.Other then this Idle problem that car is ready for a rip.
HommerSimpson;1099937 said:
It is pioneer's In-Dash DVD Multimedia AV Navigation Receiver. Model AVIC-D2.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/Navigation/In-Dash/AVIC-D2
It has a touch screen and all sort of goodies. The screen in the pic. is the "VDD Gauge Selection" view/option. You, the user, can chose between 7 differnt things to view in the 3 gauges at one time. There is Voltage, Clock, Direction, Slope, Acceleration, Side Acceleration, Angular Velocity. I just need to install the rear view camera then it will also display that. But you can install the camera where ever you would like.
The best part they are pretty cheap on eBay
When I bought this one this past winter I pd. $400 shipped for it and also bought the cd changer ($80 shipped) at the same time.
That all depends on what turbo I go with I have been looking at gt35R's and gt37R's But If I dont care about turbo lag when the time comes it might be gt42R.
Power goals Umm lets see I want to see 500+ (But I would really like to be north of 650)
Power goals Umm lets see I want to see 500+ (But I would really like to be north of 650)
Hey i was just curious how much it was for the redone head. If you dont mind saying. Because im looking to get mine rebuilt.
Well not too much to update, but let’s see what has all done lately. I finial found a gauge cluster from a 89 (missing the tach) so I swapped in the missing gauges into the cluster. Since I had it apart I bought a volt gauge from a N/A for $12 shipped of eBay so that also got that swapped in. Now the cluster is working like a champ.
I changed the oil & filter on the fresh 7m also. Let’s see how many miles were on the oil……………..0. lol, it had about 10-15 min. of idle/run time on it from the rebuild so I dumped it and gave her some fresh stuff just in case some crap got into the engine from the rebuild.
The car still has the 1000 rpm jump at idle. So I contacted JJ and he said he will check out my TCCS and TPS’s since all the tests we did came back telling us everything is ready to go. So I removed the TCCS and packaged it up with the TPS’s and sent them out to the caption. I hope he dose find something up with them and it is a easy fix.
Other than that, it has been just a lot of cleaning and straightening out wires in the car so everything looks like it was there from the factory. This way when you remove a panel, radio, ect., there isn’t a rat’s nest of wires. Everything nice and straight is the way I like it.
I changed the oil & filter on the fresh 7m also. Let’s see how many miles were on the oil……………..0. lol, it had about 10-15 min. of idle/run time on it from the rebuild so I dumped it and gave her some fresh stuff just in case some crap got into the engine from the rebuild.
The car still has the 1000 rpm jump at idle. So I contacted JJ and he said he will check out my TCCS and TPS’s since all the tests we did came back telling us everything is ready to go. So I removed the TCCS and packaged it up with the TPS’s and sent them out to the caption. I hope he dose find something up with them and it is a easy fix.
Other than that, it has been just a lot of cleaning and straightening out wires in the car so everything looks like it was there from the factory. This way when you remove a panel, radio, ect., there isn’t a rat’s nest of wires. Everything nice and straight is the way I like it.
Well today I decided to re-torque my ARP studs. Once I removed the coil pack I found that the valley was full of oil!!! I hope it was from the cam seals(or lack of) or from when the cam covers were loose.
Once I started to re-torque the head I broke/cracked my 9/16 scocket on #9. I guess 85 ft/lbs was a little too much for that thin wall.
So now I guess it is time to buy another and modify the scoket again so it can clear the stud.
This just sucks because it took like 2 hrs to get the proper clearance inside the scocket to clear the stud. O-well I guess I will finish it up next weekend.
Once I started to re-torque the head I broke/cracked my 9/16 scocket on #9.
I guess 85 ft/lbs was a little too much for that thin wall.So now I guess it is time to buy another and modify the scoket again so it can clear the stud.
This just sucks because it took like 2 hrs to get the proper clearance inside the scocket to clear the stud. O-well I guess I will finish it up next weekend.