92' Turbo Supra Suggestions

te72

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Chris13002;1873752 said:
Speaking about power, I also love how this car has that certain "pull"... It's certainly a different feeling from the naturally aspirated cars like the S2000 I previously owned... When I purchased the S2000, I didn't seem to get that "pull." Even giving the 2013 Mustang 5.0 owner a drive in my Supra, we agreed that the "pulls" are different in our cars... I know there are more details on how the physics works with this, but it's about the experience...
It is certainly that 7m torque... definitely a good feeling. I've always considered Supras to be "catch up" cars, much like muscle cars. You can only throw such a heavy car into a corner so fast, but you can easily use the power to make up for slower corner speeds on the exit.

Now, cars like the S2000 (Miata, FRS, MR2/S, RX7, etc) are more "momentum" cars. Don't slow down, and you don't have to worry about the relative lack of power. ;)
 

Chris13002

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Sep 20, 2010
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Alright guys, I think my engine has developed "rod knocking" and here is my video...

[video=youtube_share;IVQyi6BrNfU]http://youtu.be/IVQyi6BrNfU[/video]

I took this video right away but then added some oil (3/4th a quart) and it went away...
Then it started again on cold starts and we just did an oil change, and will see where it leads from here...
It has been approximately 4K miles since we performed the head gasket repair and this oil change was the 4th since...
Seems to be be noticeable between 1-2K rpm's... Nothing after that...
While the engine is warm, it doesn't make the noise at all...

My question is if it's actually "rod knocking," is it even worth repairing or making the jump to a 1/2JZ?
 

Chris13002

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So I did a cold start this morning, and all the rod knock seems to be away... After the oil change... Also the oil pressure has gone back to normal.
I know it's obviously not a good sign regardless, but is it possible for this sound to be from the 'contaminated' oil itself? I have been changing it approximately every 1000 miles...
I have also been reading into how contaminated oil (from coolant after a BHG) can eat away the bearings, which I wouldn't be surprised if this were the case...
There is however, still valve tapping on cold starts that I was already aware of, but the "rod knock" seems to be gone...

[video=youtube_share;WviB_Uxwv34]http://youtu.be/WviB_Uxwv34[/video]
 

te72

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Most definitely rod knock you have there sir. In the second video it is a lot less obvious, but it isn't a problem that fixes itself unfortunately.

As for what to do at this point, it would be smart to make sure your DD is up for a few months of steady service. From there, pull the 7m, and tear it down for inspection. I was going to keep my 7m after the rod knock (despite their occasional issue I do love them), but after we got the pan off and saw how bad my crank was... it was JZ time for me.

Your car though, so that decision is yours and yours alone. :)
 

Chris13002

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te72;1875213 said:
Most definitely rod knock you have there sir. In the second video it is a lot less obvious, but it isn't a problem that fixes itself unfortunately.

As for what to do at this point, it would be smart to make sure your DD is up for a few months of steady service. From there, pull the 7m, and tear it down for inspection. I was going to keep my 7m after the rod knock (despite their occasional issue I do love them), but after we got the pan off and saw how bad my crank was... it was JZ time for me.

Your car though, so that decision is yours and yours alone. :)

Thanks, my other car is well maintained and I looked forward to this (usually the worst case scenario)...
Good thing it's almost winter time so me and my mechanic will start with taking the engine out and begin tearing it apart. Hopefully it's easy to physically see what is wrong (worn bearings?) and we will determine from there if it's even worth repairing...
 

te72

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Should be easy to see once you get the engine flipped over (drain the oil first ;) ), and pull the pan off. Sometimes you get lucky and your bearings are a bit worn, other times you've screwed the pooch like my motor did. I think mine had spun (where the bearing halves basically overlap each other) 2 or three of the rod bearings.
 

Chris13002

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Have not posted in a while on here.

The day was too beautiful... 72 Degrees where I live in December is quite rare.
Me and my friends decided to ride around and take pictures of our cars...

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te72

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You know Chris, I daresay your car qualifies for the "best looking Supras" thread we have on here, looking great.

How did the RK issue turn out, still knocking, or did you get it sorted?
 

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
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I am wondering if the knock issue got solved as well.

I agree with the car too... very very nice. My supra is the same color and I strive to make it this nice inside and out.

If you or anyone else is trying to identify a knock I may pass on this word of advice

I was looking at a honda today for my little sister (since she cant handle a rear wheel drive yet) and I heard a little bit of a knock. A quick call to a 40 year mechanic gave me an old solution to see if a bearing let go... he basically told me to take the load off the bearing and it should get worse. It worked on the Honda and lowered the price of that car from 2500 to 1000 dollars very very quickly. All you have to do is unplug one wire at a time and see what cylinder starts making more noise. You will know when you find the right cylinder.

Hope this helps someone
 

Chris13002

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Thanks! To tell you the truth, I have been driving it once a week ~10 miles or so... No rod knock since I put 10w40 oil from w30...
I've been driving it to see if it would get any worse... I know I shouldn't :/
The valve tapping still occurs during the first couple minutes or so and goes away after driving...

Me and my mechanic still plan to haul the engine, and pop off the oil pan and investigate so I will keep you guys posted on this...
 

te72

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Chris13002;1897907 said:
Thanks! To tell you the truth, I have been driving it once a week ~10 miles or so... No rod knock since I put 10w40 oil from w30...
I've been driving it to see if it would get any worse... I know I shouldn't :/
The valve tapping still occurs during the first couple minutes or so and goes away after driving...

Me and my mechanic still plan to haul the engine, and pop off the oil pan and investigate so I will keep you guys posted on this...
I believe it was Jdub that said that adding a heavier weight oil only delays the inevitable in the case of knocking engines. Might as well start saving your money now sir. :)
 

Chris13002

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Long time no post. I've been focusing on my son and school, but have some updates...
Instead of continuing to work on the current engine that's rod knocking, I just decided to pickup another 7M-GTE engine and just swap it out - this one is already built w/ ARP bolts and correct torque specifications and continue to restore and keep everything stock.
Will be starting the engine replacement this weekend...

Took her for one last drive on this engine...
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