'91 7M to 1JZ swap for a friend

[Marotta1]

Hi out there, im posting under someone elses name to be clear from the start and not to mislead. If I type JDM its easier that typing Japanese over&over, Im a VW/Audi tech and dont know proper terminology here, dont hold it against me.. In fact you should congratulate me for my willingness to cross ponds or whatever euphemism you please :biglaugh:

Picked up the task of this swap and hope I can recieve some help. I have many questions but will start with whats below.

This small spare plug on the JDM ECU(not on the US spec).. What is it? MAP sesor?

Theres a loom with a securing clip numbered "15" on the JDM motor that looks to correspond with the "19" numbered clip on the US OE motor, is that correct?

Do: All, Most or None of the Wire colors and tracers correspond? I have found several that do but dont want to make assumptions.

And finally for now, are there any special timing tools required to R&R the T-belt? I have a DOHC lock tool, but know sometimes there are special tensioner tools, crank locks (if there are no clear TDC markings) etc..

Im not familiar with this forums etiquette but I did search and brushed up a little here: http://www.supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=38&Itemid=54 ...and that left me with only more questions since I wasnt anticipating the 3 foot lengthening dash removal process..

Thanks for any and all help, Brian

 

[steve_mk3]

Contact Dr Tweek on this board if your looking for a plug and play solution.

Search and you will find some alternatives to extending the harness 3' I believe you can relocate the ecu.

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

Hi out there, im posting under someone elses name to be clear from the start and not to mislead. If I type JDM its easier that typing Japanese over&over, Im a VW/Audi tech and dont know proper terminology here, dont hold it against me.. In fact you should congratulate me for my willingness to cross ponds or whatever euphemism you please :biglaugh:

Picked up the task of this swap and hope I can recieve some help. I have many questions but will start with whats below.

This small spare plug on the JDM ECU(not on the US spec).. What is it? MAP sesor?

This small spare plug on the JDM ECU(not on the US spec).. What is it? MAP sesor? - Its referred to as a fly lead. There is a plug on the main harness that it will plug into. Its signals goes to / comes from the tps and a ground i believe but don't know what it actually does. Map sensor signals are on the main harness plug.


Theres a loom with a securing clip numbered "15" on the JDM motor that looks to correspond with the "19" numbered clip on the US OE motor, is that correct?

Pictures?
Plugs are labelled as B1, B2, M1, etc and both are similar/same for jza70 and the 91 year Supra. These are the body plugs carrying signals to the instrument panel, reverse lights etc. Some of these plugs needs to be repinned for proper signal but very minimal work needed.

Do: All, Most or None of the Wire colors and tracers correspond? I have found several that do but dont want to make assumptions.

For the most part , yes.
The ecu wires will just need to be extended to fit the right hand side under the glove box. Extend approximately 16-18 inches. If you contact Boomslang, they make harnesses which you can just plug in to extend. Get the one for an acura NSX as it has the same style four plugs and wires for the ecu. You can order in the length you want and its hassle free and no soldering and will save a lot of time.

And finally for now, are there any special timing tools required to R&R the T-belt? I have a DOHC lock tool, but know sometimes there are special tensioner tools, crank locks (if there are no clear TDC markings) etc..

Nothing special. the timing belt tensioner is held in place by a piston located behind the crank pulley. just unbolt it and it will release the belt. However, you will need to press in the piston in a vice, lock it in place with a pin to reinstall. then relase the pin once timing belt is set. this will apply the tension on the wheels to keep belt tight.
just mark up the two cam pulley marks to the cam pulley back plates - plug # 1 at TDC. The notch on the timing belt sprocket on the crank will line up with a mark on the engine.


Im not familiar with this forums etiquette but I did search and brushed up a little here: http://www.supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=38&Itemid=54 ...and that left me with only more questions since I wasnt anticipating the 3 foot lengthening dash removal process..

Thanks for any and all help, Brian

Also, there is a better site where you will see how things are wired and done.

http://web.archive.org/web/20060323191804/www.1jz-gte.us/92Supra6.html

You can look at connector mappings for the plugs for each year.

 

[Marotta1]

Okay, so here are some pictures:

Here you can see the obvious.. Is there any good reason other than haste why the goon had to cut instead of unclip?

============================================

Here is up close of the plug not on the US ECU..

============================================

Here are the other cut 1J wires that have a clip numbered 15.. Do they correspond to the wires below with the igniter and others?

=============================================

These have a clip numbered 19 and look to correspond with the above..

=============================================

Here are the other plugs under the glove but not the ECU..

=============================================

I hope I can find various colored wires locally since I dont want to use all the same in case of future diagnosis. And it kind of sucks that all the 1JZ wires are cut in the same spot...

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

okay ...so just solder up the wires back to the plug. No reason to cut it unless being stupid and lazy...

The pictures 3 and 4 - two different harnesses so won't match up. The MKIII main harness will not be used in this case so those plugs wont correspond.
You may want to find the correct plug for that cut wires and splice it back in place. Its hard to say but it could be for the EA2 connector which has the signals for the power, hydrofan etc.

The last picture shows the body plugs. If yo look at the link I provided above , you will see that only a few of the wires will needed to be repinned. some may not even be used depending on the options in the 91 car. The lik above will show the correct pinout.

 

[Marotta1]

OEM uses no real gasket for the oil pan ay? ..not big on instant gasket goo myself..

and check out that pickup! good thing im changing the pan anyway.

Thanks for the link and help, I will go there and search for images of the correct harness plugs.

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

yes no problemo. Just look under links that says connector mappings. pick the 90 + model.
Yeah I'd say the best gasket / sealant is the grey one for Toyota. I've used it on many times and it is has given me zero problems.

 

[Marotta1]

Anybody out there know what special tool is used for holding the crank dampener pulley to remove and retourque the crank bolt?

I wont use air(to torque anyway), so if that the only suggestion, I pass and the t-belt will be a future job.

With the engine out of the car the best I can imagine without a crank lock up front is a flat bar and friend holding the driveplate as I break/torque the crank bolt,, but at nearly 200 ft/lbs, that'll be a bit difficult..

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

Anybody out there know what special tool is used for holding the crank dampener pulley to remove and retourque the crank bolt?

I wont use air(to torque anyway), so if that the only suggestion, I pass and the t-belt will be a future job.

With the engine out of the car the best I can imagine without a crank lock up front is a flat bar and friend holding the driveplate as I break/torque the crank bolt,, but at nearly 200 ft/lbs, that'll be a bit difficult..

SST :

 

[Marotta1]

Thats the ticket!!

How much to rent?

Another time,,, im patching it up, the belt looks acceptable for now and im in to this for too many hours already. Besides, once the rad's out its a straightforward job for the future.

Did you build or buy that locker?

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

Thats the ticket!!

How much to rent?

Another time,,, im patching it up, the belt looks acceptable for now and im in to this for too many hours already. Besides, once the rad's out its a straightforward job for the future.

Did you build or buy that locker?

Nah I think you can buy these from a good tool store. I borrowed this fro a friend. But it works like a charm.

 

[Marotta1]

Below is a picture of the P/S pump.. I threaded in the braided line(high pressure side) provided to me by the owner and am holding the original high pressure hose with a nice long banjo bolt that hooked up to the banjo fitting and the vacuum/pressure regulator..

Is that vacuum sesnor for the speed sensitive steering?

The one vacuum line goes to the Intake Mani but where does the other line go to?

Does this braided line look familiar? I question the fit, mostly because of the elbow that will sit on the rack with respect to clearance.. AND more importantly how i could still use the sensor with supplied hardware.

Low pressure side should be easy enough with soft hose trimmed to length.

Oh, and you cant see in the pic, but both braided ends are identical elbows/fittings.

 

[Marotta1]

And besides input on my last post I was hoping someone could precisely state the designated code for the plugs pictured below.

I believe the small grey rectangle plug goes by "M1" but the wiring diagram I refered to, to even say that does not correspond exactly mostly because the diagram does not mention painted dots(brown/orange in color mostly) only tracer colors..

If anyone could please list in order of:

Small grey rectangle:


Larger grey rectangle:


Square grey:


White rectangle:

And thank you very much for any help. If anybody lives in the poconos and wants a free beer or 3, let me know. //brian