Yeah, that widened keyway is a common problem. It stems from the pulley bolt loosening up, and the pulley just wobbles back and forth. Get a replacement crank.
88 Turbo Old Man Project Car
- Thread starter supradad
- Start date
Top of head gasket and piston tops. There was a rust buildup from the water passares. This thing needs cleaned out. You can alo see a number 0371 on the head gasket. Not sure what this means, but I'll ask that question later. Gasket measured 1.5mm at the water tings and cylinder holes. The gasket had a rubber coating on it.
Attachments
nice methodical teardown, and I can see your bins you have labeled for the stuff you take off. I hope you are also using baggies for your bolts and other small hardware.
A bucket of hot soapy water and a toilet brush (dont laugh it works great) will do alot for cleaning up the engine bay. I might also recommend a parts washer tub from harbor freight or the like. It makes cleaning up all the little parts SOOOO much easier.
Tear down and post mortem inspection is actually kind of a fun time for me. I like seeing how far gone stuff was and still be running. Im usually amazed.
edit: Funny, that head gasket shows no signs of impending BHG that I can see. but danm its got alot of carbon buildup.
A bucket of hot soapy water and a toilet brush (dont laugh it works great) will do alot for cleaning up the engine bay. I might also recommend a parts washer tub from harbor freight or the like. It makes cleaning up all the little parts SOOOO much easier.
Tear down and post mortem inspection is actually kind of a fun time for me. I like seeing how far gone stuff was and still be running. Im usually amazed.
edit: Funny, that head gasket shows no signs of impending BHG that I can see. but danm its got alot of carbon buildup.
My pic's of the valves and head were too large and would not upload. Here are shots of the bottom end. Someone in the past must have tried to jack up the oil pan. It has a small dent in it and the screen on the oil pump was pushed in. I'll be ordering a Aisin replacement this weekend.
Pulled rod bearing from Cylinder 1. Rod bearing scored up and worn. Pic's of the piston.
Pulled rod bearing from Cylinder 1. Rod bearing scored up and worn. Pic's of the piston.
Attachments
GotBoost?;983071 said:
I am thinking along those lines. Hopefully a honing, new rings, probably a new crak and relevant bearings/seals. New MHG, manual boost controller, and see how it runs. Then the exhaust, intake, and paintjob.
supraguy@aol;983106 said:
I saw 2 crank sets so far, both included bearings and rod bearings. Looks like around $260 to $350. I was wondering if the loose balancer was causing it. Either way, I was not very hopefuly it could be fixed. I will be looking to get one in the next week or 2. Thanks!
theWeezL;983125 said:
YUP! Plenty of baggies and sharpies and pictures. Used masking tape and sharpie marks on all of the sensors and wires. I'm not sure how long it will take until I can put it back together. I like the toilet brush idea. Thanks.
40 is not old, 100 maybe. You're only old if you feel like it. I only wish I was neat like you. My engine is apart in boxes but the bolts and nuts aren't clearly mark. Hoping Probe will hurry up and send my pistons so I can start my rebuild. Nice clean job on the teardown.
Here are the pics of the head. Took som more today. Measured the head thickness and got 116.5. So I can only assume that not much has been taken off of the head. I mentioned earlier that the original MHG measured 1.5mm at the beads. So, I'll look for something a little thicker and have the block and head milled appropriately.
Attachments
Here is the number I found on the block once I removed some dirt and oil. They were located at the top fron on the exhaust side. It says '304' and appears to be held on with a screw. Anybody know what this indicates? If not, I'll post a question in a seperate thread.
Attachments
Congrats on your new project!
You dont have to add major upgrades just to get decent power,just the fact that a fresh motor is going is enough to light'em up.
oh,and dont feel bad about your age,42 here
You dont have to add major upgrades just to get decent power,just the fact that a fresh motor is going is enough to light'em up.
oh,and dont feel bad about your age,42 here
Yup. She needs a good dunkin. Probably burning some oil. I'm new at this, so I'm going to have the machine shop pull the remaining 5 pistons and give me their opinion. It the rods and pistons look good, I'll plan on new rings, a hone, new crank and bearings and head work. Just a mild upgrade to drive it for a year or 2, until I want more on the next one......
I'm actually suprised how many people at our stage of life are working on these cars. Guess we all figured why wait any longer. I was amazed now how different it felt getting out of that drivers seat 15 years earlier as opposed to now! Thanks for all the feedback and harrasment. Makes me feel welcome
I'm actually suprised how many people at our stage of life are working on these cars. Guess we all figured why wait any longer. I was amazed now how different it felt getting out of that drivers seat 15 years earlier as opposed to now! Thanks for all the feedback and harrasment. Makes me feel welcome
That looks like more than I would be willing to just hone and reassemble.
I suspect you're going to need to overbore and put in new pistons. If you are going to go that route, you might as well buy fancy forged pistons - they aren't that much more money, and they ARE that much better than stock.
I suspect you're going to need to overbore and put in new pistons. If you are going to go that route, you might as well buy fancy forged pistons - they aren't that much more money, and they ARE that much better than stock.
GrimJack;984993 said:
I have read that often on this site. Will probably go the Probe piston route since they are on the lower end of the scale. Any recommendations on rods? I was waiting on ordering any more parts until the machinist looks at the block. If it does need bored out, you guys will be the next to know!
GrimJack;984993 said:
Actually, what would be your recommendation on pistons, rings, and rods? I see just from looking at the pictures you have concerns. Is it the condition of the piston and rings, or the bore walls?
I have about $3k left in my (initial) budget, but I wanted to save some for the body. Either way, I was not looking at high HP. Less than 400, which was why I was thinking about sticking with the original rods and pistons. I was thinking of the Lexus AFM and 550 injectors, new intake filter, manual boost controller and turbo timer for now. When I got the money freed up later, then an exhaust and possibly 57 trim CT26. That however would be the max I would shoot for. I don't need that much HP for around town (no comments from the gallery please......):biglaugh:
It's the cylinder walls that I'm concerned about, and after you bore it out, the original pistons won't fit anymore, they will be too small.
I'm a big fan of JE pistons and rings.
Rods aren't as big of a concern - unless you are going for big power, over 500 whp, they should hold fine. Duane on here ran stock rods that had been shotpeened to well over 600 whp without any problems.
Is there something wrong with your crank? I'm sure I've read this entire thread, and you've mentioned replacing it, but I don't recall why.
In your position, I would probably do this:
- Deck the block and head for a MHG
- Bore the cylinders 20 thou over
- Have the rods checked
- Purchase all new bearings, including the one for the oil pump drive shaft
- New JE pistons and rings
- New HKS metal head gasket
- New ARP head bolts or studs
- New Toyota oil pump
Skip the turbo timer, just use good synthetic. Push out the Lexus AFM / 550cc injectors too, those are easy to change / add later. Get an Apexi or AEM air filter, full 3 inch exhaust from the turbo back, and a manual boost controller (preferably from DrJonez, he sells good stuff) and turn the boost up to fuel cut levels, then turn it back down a little.
That way you have a platform that you won't have to break apart again later. From there I'd add the fuel system - injectors, AFM, pump, FPR, and turn up the boost some more.
After that I'd replace the intercooler pipes and intercooler.
Last, I'd consider swapping in a bigger turbo.
To be honest, unless you have an appetite for going really fast, you'll never get there. This car will whip pretty much anything you run into long before you get to this stage, as long as it still uses 4 wheels!
I'm a big fan of JE pistons and rings.
Rods aren't as big of a concern - unless you are going for big power, over 500 whp, they should hold fine. Duane on here ran stock rods that had been shotpeened to well over 600 whp without any problems.
Is there something wrong with your crank? I'm sure I've read this entire thread, and you've mentioned replacing it, but I don't recall why.
In your position, I would probably do this:
- Deck the block and head for a MHG
- Bore the cylinders 20 thou over
- Have the rods checked
- Purchase all new bearings, including the one for the oil pump drive shaft
- New JE pistons and rings
- New HKS metal head gasket
- New ARP head bolts or studs
- New Toyota oil pump
Skip the turbo timer, just use good synthetic. Push out the Lexus AFM / 550cc injectors too, those are easy to change / add later. Get an Apexi or AEM air filter, full 3 inch exhaust from the turbo back, and a manual boost controller (preferably from DrJonez, he sells good stuff) and turn the boost up to fuel cut levels, then turn it back down a little.
That way you have a platform that you won't have to break apart again later. From there I'd add the fuel system - injectors, AFM, pump, FPR, and turn up the boost some more.
After that I'd replace the intercooler pipes and intercooler.
Last, I'd consider swapping in a bigger turbo.
To be honest, unless you have an appetite for going really fast, you'll never get there. This car will whip pretty much anything you run into long before you get to this stage, as long as it still uses 4 wheels!
Grim, do you really think forged is worth the extra cost considering his power goals and addon plans? Im still of the opinion that a properly built stock bottom end with a MHG is more than strong enough for 300-400 hp. I guess what it comes down to for me is if there is room in the budget for it, great, but if there isnt it wouldnt be the end of the world. Am I wrong in thinking that forged pistons and rods are 4 times the cost of stock replacements (rods usually able to be reconditioned)? edit: I see now you are only suggesting pistons, so that changes the figures a bit yeah.
I guess I just though someone should voice a differing opinion so he knows there are options.
He has a widened keyway, but it didnt look that bad to me.
The rest of your recommendations look spot on to me.
I guess I just though someone should voice a differing opinion so he knows there are options.
GrimJack;985284 said:
He has a widened keyway, but it didnt look that bad to me.
The rest of your recommendations look spot on to me.