I'm always impressed how damn clean you get everything. And all the paint work... Ugh. I have a hard time getting a couple pieces painted properly and you seem to paint ten pieces a week!
88 Blue Turbo restoration/upgrade story
- Thread starter lithium14
- Start date
Its this type of a build that keeps me going.. and also makes me disappointed in myself after I finish something only to realise that I could have done it far better.... lol
Thanks guys!! really appreciate the positive feedback. I'm sure you guys know how anal I am about things though... If I could have things my way and not be limited by money... I would have everything powdercoated LOL. I hate it when paint chips -_-. And may I just include this tidbit... I despise spray cans with a passion.
For what part? for lower brackets and parts exposed to stuff from below, I used Eastwood chassis paint. Remove rust with chem dip, clean well, then eastwood chassis primer, then top coat. For parts exposed to high heat, like the shields by the exhaust, I used high temp silicone paint. Same prep, a couple coats of the silicone paint. For parts on the top, throttle linkages, brackets, ps pump, coil pack base, etc etc I used regular black engine enamel. Same prep, no primer though.
Hmm...I've been stalling painting a couple different pieces in my bay (engine hooks, turbo heat shield, radiator brackets, etc) until I found a good paint and I may have to try out some silicone paint. I've seen that in the auto stores before, but never seen it used. It turned out really well on a lot of your parts.
I may have to pick some up and give it a go!
I may have to pick some up and give it a go!
A word about the silicone paint, the only pieces I painted with that was the bracket for the CT to the head and the two shields where the exhaust goes (one protects the brake lines, the other the speedo line). The brand I got was DEI I believe and it's supposed to be heated to 400 degrees to cure. I thought that meant putting it in the oven for a bit, but then it only softened the paint and made it sticky, so after some research, I found that people were painting their parts and then installing them and letting the exhaust heat do the work of curing it. In other words, it won't work very well on parts that don't get heated up that much. Plus it looks like a matte dark brown, not very appealing. For the parts you listed (besides the heat shield, the silicone paint is fine for that) I would just use the regular black engine enamel. The brand I use is duplicolor.
Thanks!! I can't wait to see your MK3 as well!! Ghost flames and all =D I may come out to the cars and coffee/friday night events I heard about once the Supra is finished
and here are a few pics:
Beech quick disconnect adjustable sway bar end links
Cutting the sway bar bushings to fit better
Sanded them smooth
Fitted... now they only sit slightly higher than the brackets.
and here are a few pics:
Beech quick disconnect adjustable sway bar end links
Cutting the sway bar bushings to fit better
Sanded them smooth
Fitted... now they only sit slightly higher than the brackets.
Things are coming together pretty nicely (except my landlady now wants to charge me $200 a month to use the garage. fuck that). But I just got a novel idea, let's see what ya'll think. I am having a hard time finding a good spot to put my B&M super cooler for engine oil. It's too big to put in the stock location and I can't fit it behind the fogs since that area is taken up by engine and trans oil fiters. I just noticed however, that the stock Power Steering "cooler" runs through some nice empty space in a good airflow spot. What if, I use the stock engine oil cooler (retain the same stock location) for PS cooling, and remove the stock PS cooling tubes and put the new engine oil cooler in its spot? thoughts? I just tested it, it would be a perfect fit after I also relocate one of the horn.
Sounds good to me but I know some have placed the cooler in between the condenser and radiator. Not sure how that would fit though but wherever you put it, make sure it will get enough air flow.
More important, what's the plan about the land lady. A 200 increase. Jeez. If she wants to do that, tell her nobody else uses the garage since I read a post about a girl having a junk car and didn't want to park on the street.
More important, what's the plan about the land lady. A 200 increase. Jeez. If she wants to do that, tell her nobody else uses the garage since I read a post about a girl having a junk car and didn't want to park on the street.
I think I recall reading that the stock engine oil cooler doesn't have nearly sufficient flow for PS since it's not full flow. Between the intercooler and the AC condenser sounds fine otherwise though. That is where I would have mounted mine.
Enjoy!I decided not to use the stock cooler, mainly because a friend told me I would never be able to get it clean enough to use with the PS system and not ruin the pump. LOL. Im going to put my engine oil cooler between (more on top of) the IC and AC condenser, and get another B&M cooler of smaller dimensions for the PS system and put that in the stock oil cooler location.
I told my landlady that as soon as the Supra is running again, the garage will free up. :/ I'm gonna help them by sealing the concrete later on.
Today I had major issues with alignment. I measure the travel of the steering rack, found its center as best I could and matched it with the steering wheel, a perfect 1.33 turn either way. However after doing that, no matter what I did, I couldn't seem to get the driver side wheel to straighten out. With everything centered and the tie rod screwed all the way in until no more threads were left, the wheel still looked like it was turned slightly to the left. I managed to get the passenger side straightened out and cambered back to stock as much as I could visually. My first stop will have to be at an alignment shop, so I'm just trying to get everything as close as I can so I don't die on the way there. LOL and then the threads on my new tie rods got screwed up (don't ask how LOL), so I'll use my old ones and get new ones later. FML
I really want to push the car out and give her a wash before I drop the engine in... the car is filthy and I can barely see through the glass. Too bad it takes 3-4 ppl to push my car up the inclined driveway and back into the garage... so I'll have to come up with a solution for that... push it with the sc? O.O
Thanks Devin!!! Looking forward to getting parts back =D. Out of all the parts sent out, the valve body left last and returns first lol. Engine is still in machine shop and Albert is probably still waiting for his polisher to get back to him about my turbo >_<
I told my landlady that as soon as the Supra is running again, the garage will free up. :/ I'm gonna help them by sealing the concrete later on.
Today I had major issues with alignment. I measure the travel of the steering rack, found its center as best I could and matched it with the steering wheel, a perfect 1.33 turn either way. However after doing that, no matter what I did, I couldn't seem to get the driver side wheel to straighten out. With everything centered and the tie rod screwed all the way in until no more threads were left, the wheel still looked like it was turned slightly to the left. I managed to get the passenger side straightened out and cambered back to stock as much as I could visually. My first stop will have to be at an alignment shop, so I'm just trying to get everything as close as I can so I don't die on the way there. LOL and then the threads on my new tie rods got screwed up (don't ask how LOL), so I'll use my old ones and get new ones later. FML
I really want to push the car out and give her a wash before I drop the engine in... the car is filthy and I can barely see through the glass. Too bad it takes 3-4 ppl to push my car up the inclined driveway and back into the garage... so I'll have to come up with a solution for that... push it with the sc? O.O
Thanks Devin!!! Looking forward to getting parts back =D. Out of all the parts sent out, the valve body left last and returns first lol. Engine is still in machine shop and Albert is probably still waiting for his polisher to get back to him about my turbo >_<
Got this novel idea from a MK4 I saw at TX2K12. We shall see how it holds up and if it affects performance at all in a negative manner (heavier fan... change in fan clutch performance?)
At least it looks IP II IIVII II IP II INI
Mmmmm
As you can see... I was unable to clean everything as much as I would've liked... and I didn't even bother with the springs and shocks since those will be gone as soon as I get new rims/brakes... <--- those two alone = well over 5K. shit.
Breakfast of Champions
Was a bitch getting this off/out
Passenger side. Wheel was off with steering pan and rack at dead center.
Still off a bit
Done
Driver side... MUCH worse. Here I already have the tie rod screwed all the way in on the rack link
FML.
Thanks guys!! LOL. But now I have issues. Landlady reeeeally wants her half of the garage, which I find amusing because if she does park in the garage, her car is going to be all up in my way when I work on my car... and there's no room for her car and mine and two transmissions and an engine (once I get it back that is). So anyways, I really want to move my car, BUT remember the driveway is an incline and it took 4 men to push my car back in last time, but we were lucky because they happened to be the garage door installers. This time, it's just me. And I never see any of my neighbors, and they are mostly old people I see or fat folks who don't look very fit and able to help me push a 3600lb car around. I'm wondering if I can push it with the SC. Use a gratuitous amount of padding and insulation between the bumpers and just slooooowly push the car up the driveway. Do you guys think the rear bumper can take that kind of force? It's the only solution I can think of...