I recently swaped a 7mgte into my mk3 celica and while under boost at anymore than half throttle it stops making power and sounds as if its misfireing or running out of fuel although the afrs are between 14.50 15.00 during boost.Any one have any ideas what it may be?
7mgte swap bogs out or misfires under boost?
- Thread starter tomsupra8683
- Start date
Afm 
Check you intake pipe for small splits that might open up under the motor moving during accel.
Check you intake pipe for small splits that might open up under the motor moving during accel.
14-15 afr under boost is super lean.
Check your codes. If 34 pops up you have a boost leak. Sounds like you do too.
Check your codes. If 34 pops up you have a boost leak. Sounds like you do too.
+1 boost leak, check the entire intake and intercooler system. Best thing would be to do a smoke test on it. Usually a shop will do the test for $40 or so, that will let you know where the leaks are of course its more if you want them to fix it but you would be surprised how many leaks a smoke test will find that you didn't know you had.
ill chech for boost leaks tonite.where should the afrs be at during boost?and my engine does have na pistons and cam it was just rebuilt a couple weeks ago.Would the na pistons also be part of the problem with the lean conditoin?Is there any difference between the na fuel pressure regulator an the turbo one?
Regulators have different part numbers.
Are you using the gte injectors, afm, ecu and such?
afr should be around 10:1 with a stock ecu under boost.
Are you using the gte injectors, afm, ecu and such?
afr should be around 10:1 with a stock ecu under boost.
im running gte injectors afm and ecu,the black injectors are 440's right?im running the later style electronics with the grey plug harness and ecu,how do you go about getting the codes from the ecu,is there a code reader available?
thanks for the link now i just gotta figure out how to hook up the check engine light.Gonna be interesting cause my car was originaly a 4cly 22r carburated.
does the ecu only require a switched power supply or does it need constant power even when the car is off?the wire diagrams i have do not state wether its needs to be switched power or not.
Terminal BATT on the ECU is for keep alive power. You don't need it but all learned values will be lost with every key cycle. So will any set codes.
Just need to hook up te1 whcih should already be plugged in from the diag port. and then w will go to the check engine light and should have been on the body plugs. Gray wire. E1 is just a ground so basically just need ot ground te1.
No boost leaks for sure i found two couplers that had tried to come off so i double clamped every thing and tested it.The trouble is im running lean and not sure why.It may be that my fpr is the na one but i havnt been able to find a post related to a difference between na and turbo fpr.
i know the fuel filters are clean,im running a hi flow carter fuel pump that out flows the walbro.My base timing is set at 12 btdc.Im certain that i have no vaccum leaks. the hose that runs from the intake to the iscv,should that have a check valve in it?
Check the fuel pressure under boost, bet its dropping off.. Part throttle under boost will be 14.5-15.0 but WOT should pull down to 10.5-10.7
---------- Post added at 12:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:07 AM ----------
No there is a check valve and O ring in the intake manifold it self, it goes in before you bolt the ISCV on
---------- Post added at 12:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:07 AM ----------
No there is a check valve and O ring in the intake manifold it self, it goes in before you bolt the ISCV on
can u visually see the check valve in the manifold when the iscv is removed?i dont recall seeing one.Im gonna try and replace the fpr cause i got a couple spares and i think its possible that mine is bad it will run lean before boost somtimes as well.kinda does act like its running out of fuel.
Its prolly fuel cut...
yes you can see it. Looks like the inside of a orange when you cut it in half. Its also orange but usually black from being dirty. Its there so boost doesnt blow the valve open. So the orange thing should be on the inside.
yes you can see it. Looks like the inside of a orange when you cut it in half. Its also orange but usually black from being dirty. Its there so boost doesnt blow the valve open. So the orange thing should be on the inside.