I have a knocking from my engine and believe it's time to rebuild it. Besides it has over 267000 miles on the original engine so I think it's time anyway. I really don't have the time to do it myself so just want to have someone else do it. Just wondering what the normal cost of a complete rebuild is with labor. Thanks for the help.
7MGTE Rebuild Cost
- Thread starter alexpamj
- Start date
there is a member on here with pics in his build thread of his build.. .it was in his kitchen IIRC.
uhm, it depends on the build that u want. if u are using stock pisons/rods or if u are upgrading. it could be around $1000 if u are just doing a stock build up. even more depending on the machine shop and what u are doing. get a loan, set a budget.
uhm, it depends on the build that u want. if u are using stock pisons/rods or if u are upgrading. it could be around $1000 if u are just doing a stock build up. even more depending on the machine shop and what u are doing. get a loan, set a budget.
Wow.
Here's my tab so far:
$400 - Eagle Rods w 3/8" ARP2000 bolts (from SM member)
$400 - New ATI Super Damper (from SummitRacing.com)
$350 - Probe Forged Pistons (group buy)
$150 - Cometic Head Gasket (not actually purchased yet, as I don't know what thickness I'm going with)
$120 - New Aisin Oil Pump (ebay)
$30 - New Timing Tensioner Kit (ebay)
$45 - New Water Pump (Advance Auto)
$49 - New Clevite 77 Rod Bearings (Advance Auto)
$61 - New Clevite 77 Main Bearings (Advance Auto)
$12 - New Clevite 77 Thrust Bearings (Advance Auto)
$100 - Used awesome condition 7M crankshaft (Local U-pull-it from a '92 Cressida)
$120 - New ARP Head Studs (from SM member)
$30 - 2 x TheRightStuff gasket maker
So I'm about $1900 into my 'bullet proof' bottom end. Machine work is going to run about another ~$1500.
$3400 for a fully forged, fully balanced shortblock.
Now, if you stay with the stock stuff, you can easily cut $1100 out of the engine, and have a strong, stock shortblock for around $2500, fully machined.
Here's my tab so far:
$400 - Eagle Rods w 3/8" ARP2000 bolts (from SM member)
$400 - New ATI Super Damper (from SummitRacing.com)
$350 - Probe Forged Pistons (group buy)
$150 - Cometic Head Gasket (not actually purchased yet, as I don't know what thickness I'm going with)
$120 - New Aisin Oil Pump (ebay)
$30 - New Timing Tensioner Kit (ebay)
$45 - New Water Pump (Advance Auto)
$49 - New Clevite 77 Rod Bearings (Advance Auto)
$61 - New Clevite 77 Main Bearings (Advance Auto)
$12 - New Clevite 77 Thrust Bearings (Advance Auto)
$100 - Used awesome condition 7M crankshaft (Local U-pull-it from a '92 Cressida)
$120 - New ARP Head Studs (from SM member)
$30 - 2 x TheRightStuff gasket maker
So I'm about $1900 into my 'bullet proof' bottom end. Machine work is going to run about another ~$1500.
$3400 for a fully forged, fully balanced shortblock.
Now, if you stay with the stock stuff, you can easily cut $1100 out of the engine, and have a strong, stock shortblock for around $2500, fully machined.
This thread has reminded me the reason i'm going to be a broke-ass for the next 12 months...
Thanks, Doward, thanks alot! :nono:
:icon_razz
Thanks, Doward, thanks alot! :nono:
:icon_razz
Doward said:
Mine ended up being about 3550 with similar stuff, 1500 of which machine work, ARP everything 2.0MM HG and performace bearings. I DONT have forged pistons/rods though
IwantMKIII said:Mine ended up being about 3550 with similar stuff, 1500 of which machine work, ARP everything 2.0MM HG and performace bearings. I DONT have forged pistons/rods though
... HOW? How did you spent $2000, and NOT get forged rods/pistons?
LilMiss: I do my best to please
^^I could EASILY spend that amount of money (+ more) and not have the internals done... Spending money on a rebuild for the Supe is just way too easy...
EDIT - my build is going to be a lil cheaper... I was gifted a brand new genuine Prada bag... It is being sold on ebay this week so i can get more car parts
EDIT - my build is going to be a lil cheaper... I was gifted a brand new genuine Prada bag... It is being sold on ebay this week so i can get more car parts
the key is do it right the first time, and you wont have to do it again.
i just happened to rebuild my motor 3 times..
first one cost me 1200, second time i spent 1500, and the third time was close to 1400,
the first time i re-ringed, bought a mhg, arp every thing, and have every thign balenced,
second time re-ringed, knife edged, cleaned up the rod's had the crank machined, rods resized, flywheel balanced, (auto/5sp swap )
i rebuild the second time due to knock, i made a mistake with a hammer and my rod bolts,
third rebuild was do to a noise i couldn't pin point, i replaced all the pistons bored, and made sure every thing was spec, had the crank gone over with a mic and all measurements writen done.
it looked good,
turned out i had a loose bracket makin noise.
sad thing is, each time i had the motor apart i found more things to spend money on.
long story short.. it's cheaper to do it right the first time..
i just happened to rebuild my motor 3 times..
first one cost me 1200, second time i spent 1500, and the third time was close to 1400,
the first time i re-ringed, bought a mhg, arp every thing, and have every thign balenced,
second time re-ringed, knife edged, cleaned up the rod's had the crank machined, rods resized, flywheel balanced, (auto/5sp swap
)i rebuild the second time due to knock, i made a mistake with a hammer and my rod bolts,
third rebuild was do to a noise i couldn't pin point, i replaced all the pistons bored, and made sure every thing was spec, had the crank gone over with a mic and all measurements writen done.
it looked good,
turned out i had a loose bracket makin noise.
sad thing is, each time i had the motor apart i found more things to spend money on.
long story short.. it's cheaper to do it right the first time..
Oh woops, about 3100 was spent:
ARP bolts, head: 145.28
ARP rod bolts: 53.67
Federal rod bearings: 26.87
Federal Mains: 57.54
Freeze plugs: 11.77
Oil pan set: 26.50
Shipping: 46.20
Standard shortblock assembly: 650.00
Tear down to machine/clean parts: 200.00
Hone block w/plate: 100.00
Tank crank: 50.00
Balance crank: 200.00
Tank block: 60.00
Mag block: 95.00
Bore block .02: 90.00
Mag Crank: 45.00
Micro polish crank: 90.00
Tank rod/check straightness/resize big end: 150.00
Banlance rod: 75.00
Modify pistons for balance: 75.00
3 Angle valve job: 625.00
Shim the lifters: 89.40
2.0 MM SMGK head gasket: extra but i dont remember?
NPR rings: same?
Toyota replacement pistons .02 over: same?
other parts: ?
parts total: 367.88
Labor total: 850.00
Machine shop: 1694.40
All that and he didn't even put oil in the engine
I have all measurements taken if anyone is interested ie crank end play, torque specs, weights etc
Total when said and done for engine rebuild was 3087. But that price doesn't include adjustable cam gears, greddy(?) timing belt either. Lots of other parts were added but not really part of an engine build adding additionally over 4000 but thats another story. To think i still have the stock ct26 on here...argh i need a new turbo
ARP bolts, head: 145.28
ARP rod bolts: 53.67
Federal rod bearings: 26.87
Federal Mains: 57.54
Freeze plugs: 11.77
Oil pan set: 26.50
Shipping: 46.20
Standard shortblock assembly: 650.00
Tear down to machine/clean parts: 200.00
Hone block w/plate: 100.00
Tank crank: 50.00
Balance crank: 200.00
Tank block: 60.00
Mag block: 95.00
Bore block .02: 90.00
Mag Crank: 45.00
Micro polish crank: 90.00
Tank rod/check straightness/resize big end: 150.00
Banlance rod: 75.00
Modify pistons for balance: 75.00
3 Angle valve job: 625.00
Shim the lifters: 89.40
2.0 MM SMGK head gasket: extra but i dont remember?
NPR rings: same?
Toyota replacement pistons .02 over: same?
other parts: ?
parts total: 367.88
Labor total: 850.00
Machine shop: 1694.40
All that and he didn't even put oil in the engine
I have all measurements taken if anyone is interested ie crank end play, torque specs, weights etc
Total when said and done for engine rebuild was 3087. But that price doesn't include adjustable cam gears, greddy(?) timing belt either. Lots of other parts were added but not really part of an engine build adding additionally over 4000 but thats another story. To think i still have the stock ct26 on here...argh i need a new turbo
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make sure you're starter is tight mine came loose and made a sound like the bottom end was knockin